Hey guys i just got A 13b-rew at a too good a price to say no lol

whats the simplest way I can mount it in my car? I've read some stuff on using a mount kit that uses the stock rew mounts and adapts to the fc mounts

Orrr drill and tap the intermediate and use a T2 oil pan and maybe front cover I plan on going with a single turbo, premix and standalone anyways

I'd rather pocket the money from having to buy mounts and putting it toward something else

I just want to be able to make an educated guess

I have a Complete parts S5 n/a motor that i could rob parts from

Thanks guys

 

pretty sure banzai has adapters, the best method is to tap the block and use the FC mounts and oil pan. good luck with that, that is why you don't see many REW's in FCs.

 

I dont see why it would be soo hard to drill and tap the intermediate its 3 holes realistically I have a spare T2 intermediate and mount im going to look at now

and thank you i couldn't remember the name banzai racing lol

 

Our brackets are for installing the Cosmo 13b-re & 20B engines only, they do not work for the FD 13b-rew.

Drilling and tapping the center iron may be a solution, but it certainly is not simple, and is not the best way to install the engine. As a matter of fact it opens up a bunch of new issues. To install the FC oil pan you need to install the FC front cover, and you still have 6 huge holes on the rear iron to deal with.

There is someone that makes brackets, however I am not a big fan of the design.

The "simplest" and "best" way to install the FD engine is to fabricate a subframe crossmember that boxes in the FC subframe just like the FD, then use the REW factory mounting brackets. This is as easy as welding in a channel across the rear of the FC subframe.

 

rewmounts1.jpg?t=1199971840

 

The simplest way to mount a 13B-REW is to put it in a 3rd gen. Mods, you may close this thread.

 

Heres one way, havent tested at full potential but at idle and regular street driving its not to bad, Have a little bit of vibration at idle, but not bad. Pretty sturdy though, and is an option. Will try and get another, better pic. Dont remember who makes them though.

 

thanks for those who have posted so far!

Banzai are the holes where the factory mount is a real issue couldn't i just put bolt in ea hole and call it a day?

I don't mind running the Fc front cover+ acc i wanted to do a side mount alternator

Is the FD front cover wayy better than the fc?

 

FC3spro.com Quote "The most popular method is to adapt the stock 13B-REW engine mounts to the FC3S chassis. Trying to adapt the stock 13B-REW engine mounts to the stock FC3S engine mount locations on the chassis is a difficult proposition, and it's not a recommended design. The stock 13B-REW engine mounts are both located on the rear, side housing; the stock FC3S 13BT engine mounts are located on the center, intermediate housing. This makes for a sharp angle to connect both "points". When researching engine mounts in general, the weight load vector is universally in a vertical plane; the engine (above) loads the mounts (below) straight up and down. Thus, we should try and keep this design structure in mind. The easiest way to accomplish this is to keep the stock 13B-REW engine mounts and weld in a new crossmember toward the rear of the FC3S engine "cradle". There is just enough space to weld in a 3" crossmember, and getting the 13B-REW engine mounts to mount nicely is pretty easy. This allows you to keep almost all the 13B-REW components.
The optional method to welding in a crossmember is to drill and tap the 13B-REW center housing to accept the stock FC3S 13BT passenger engine mount; three M14 x 1.50 holes need to be drilled and tapped into the underside of the center, intermediate housing of the 13B-REW engine to accept the three 17mm bolts that secure the bottom of the engine to the passenger side engine mount. This requires a custom oil pan or the stock FC3S 13BT oil pan. The stock FC3S driver's side engine mount is secured by two nuts on already existing studs on the 13B-REW. The passenger side engine mount is mounted in the middle of the engine, necessitating the oil pan change. If you decide on using the FC3S 13BT oil pan, you need to seal the front edge of the 13BT oil pan, as it's longer than the stock 13B-REW oil pan by about 1/4". "

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/SWAP/FD3S/rew.html

Good luck, and don't be discouraged useless posers...

 

Sell the REW for a profit and buy a 13b-re.

 

Contact:
JR Fabrications (Just Racing Fabrications)
Guys name is JR - 772-343-0510

About 5-6 years ago I had an REW fall in my lap too and that started the slippery slope.

This is the cradle he made, it mounts on the FD mounting points and allows you to use the FC mounts. Its very strong (like 400RWHP doing abusive track days strong) and places the engine in the same exact place as a stock unit.

 

www.motivefab.com

 

http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread...&highlight=REW

 

trick pieces!....now if only there was a website where one could order them...

 

those are awesome pieces but i dont really want to pay $300 for a mount when i could drill and tap i'd love to see if anyone has done that

 

These are all the options that have been given. Unless you're really good, you could mess up the tapping. You might as well just attempt to weld your own mounts. The conversion mount is really a good option because it's direct bolt on and less likelihood for mess ups.

 

i've seen the metal bracket WELDED to the Middle iron, at a red-neck rx-7 shop. i was gonna purchase that motor for parts but then they couldn't "find it"

 

How much did that cost you jims5543? just curious

 

i have never been a real fan of the FD oil pans, i would try to remove it anyway possible and move back to the simple and idiot-leakproof FC oil pan. but that's just me.. i'm tired of doing warranty reseals on the FD pans.

 

O really? i didn't know that about FD pans

Would there be any disadvantages for using the S5 front cover with that pan? I plan on using a megasquirt, If use the S5 front cover i could use the FC CAS to run the timing

 

the CAS is a pain compared to the FD triggers. take too many steps backwards and you will have a glorified T2 motor with slightly bigger ports.

 

Oil pan brace, no more leaks http://banzai-racing.com/store/FD_oil_pan_brace.html



To answer your original question about just putting bolts into the FD rear iron, if you have the FC oilpan on then it is impossible to install bolts in those holes.

Here is a picture of our FC oil pan brace, so you can compare the drastic differences in the layouts.



There is going to be a lot of custom fabrication needed to finish the installation of this engine, it is starting to sound like it may be beyond your budget, if you are trying to figure out how to not spend $300 or weld in a bar that will allow you to drop the engine right in.

I wont even go into the megasquirt...

I do wish you well with this project, try not to cut too many corners and you will actually be happy with the outcome. We see people cut every corner possible to often, then just want to complain about how poorly their car runs.

 

im just trying to keep to a budget I won't go cheap where i don't have to I know of a few people that are local that use the megasquirt with no issues

it's just i'd rather do as much as i possible can on my own and if i can get away with being able to bolt the keg in i'd be very very happy lol

From there it would see the exhaust shop and im going to try to adapt the Greddy FMIC kit i think or do a v-mount

i just like the idea of using the stock Fc mounts lol Unless there is something Obvious i am missing here

 

drill and tap center iron use a second gen front cover,cas and and pan cant post pic from this computer but it worked for me. Microtech

 

^^i'd love to see a pic of possible