for anyone that is curious it is not Possible to Tap the center iron for the mount there is no flat spot for the bracket to sit against like the T2 I"ll post pics if anyone is interested in seeing them later

 

 

make me that mount and ill pay you 200$

Lloyd

 

**** my internet

 

in all honesty I understand what you are saying 427 but if it's in peoples cars and running and i haven't seen any issues thus far why not?

it's not possible to tap the center iron on the rew there is no flat spot for the mount on the side of the iron

I Don't have access to a welder so i cannot do what banzai posted even though i like it alot i'd rather have a bolt in solution so that if i had to i could put another Fc motor back in if i ever had to in the future

Syritis Will you be making that in the future? I'd love to buy one from you Do you think it would be an issue if i just used sold mounts? with your bracket?

 

I agree with 427 with the way the force is applied to the bracket but i've seen motors with more horsepower then my 400+ live long fruitful lives on these types of mounts.
I mostly like the banzai one b/c it also strengthens the sub frame. I used to have a brace there but doesn't fit with the new mounts.

I have one in my car and it works great but it's very custom. my motor sits very low. and is designed to work with hockey pucks. i know hockey pucks..... i replace them every year for 79cents each and with the bolt going all the way through i can make the mounts stiffer just by tightening the bolts. like 427 said i don't want to put too much stress on that rear iron.

 

Guess Im a liar then. sorry but I dont have any underneath pics. Im running a 2nd gen pineapple racing pan.

 

just finished my 2nd year of solo one with that engine brace with no damage to the rear iron. even set the fastest lap time for an RX7 that i'm aware of. so here's the point i'm making, the wrap around engine brace is not the best design, but it works. it's bolt-in, with no fabrication required.

however i'm always up for some fab work so i'll be upgrading to the banzai style mount this winter. I'll post pics when i'm done.

 

id love to see how the how you mounted the stock bracket for the rubber mount on the driverside

thanks

 

The 1 piece cross over mounts that utylize the stock motor mount points are great because they will allow you to run in SCCA SSM class still.

With solid engine mounts it would also reinforce the front subframe similar to the Banzai pic (though less effectively) and stay within the SSM rules.

Another argueably better method is to make a 1 piece cross over mount that mounts to the rear suspension mounting points of the lower arms instead - just like the front subframe reinforcement bars do.

This would also be SSM legal and box the rear of the front subframe in more effectively.

 

I think it might be possible to use a Vert subframe, which has an extra reenforcement crossmember on the rear. It is feasible to manufacture a custom bolt in crossmember that would captivate the stock FD mounts

 

This was a car I did:

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/my-2nd-gen-rew-projects-772415/

I got the motive fab mounts and they looked terrible. I had them blasted so I could inspect the weld and they were decent. That car puts out about 350-400whp and the kid I sold it to beats the **** out of it everyday and the mounts have held. Didnt think they would but didnt have any issues. Nice simple easy bolt in. Used all REW electronics minus coils and ran rew power-fc just fine. Had custom oil lines made and a custom ps line and that was pretty much it.

Dustinb

 

so here it is, just finished it today and loving it.

 

I drilled and tapped. Modified the l/h side engine mount. Modified an FC sump to utilise the FD front cover and crank triggers.
Pm me if you have any questions

 

oops forgot pics

 

spdracer Welcome to the liars club cuz its impossible!!!!

 

I also have a REW on my other FC and i drilled and tapped the center iron to use stock FC3S mounts,the FD3S center iron is not flat but you can grind a little bit of material and then drill and tap the holes so the bracket sits flush.I used the FC3S oil pan and a FD3S baffle plate in order to seal cause i did not wanted to modified the pan.A FC3S water pump,water pump housing,stock FC3S front oil cooler line was used for the conversion and is running LT10S.

 

Hey guys i know im kinda late but do you guys think you can help me with the wiring? Like the diagram i got a wolf3d v4 ems.my setup is a 88 fc n/a i got the engine in already just need help with the wiring,would be nice if you guys can give me some diagram and send it to my email at sarimsang@gmail.com or give me a link that i can go to thanks guys.

 

should i use the 88 n/a fc or the fd harness with this swap?

 

Holly resurection, sorry fellas, I meant to post on this thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/rotary-car-p.../#post11209119

MY BAD!

 

JR makes a good mount like Jim said. His mount uses the original mounting spots for an FC engine to the chassis, while holding the FD engine at the mounting spots its suppose to be held at.

 

do you have a detailed "How to" on building this bracket? or even some blueprint that I could get?

 

this thread makes my dreams of a t2 swap in my na look like childs play.

 

Sooner or later, S5 irons will run dry and people will be forced to use the S6 brew irons. That's my forecast anyways. I haven't been in the rotary game long and I've already heard of a few items being "i got the last one available" or "Mazda stopped making them".

 

keep in mind FDs were only sold in fractional numbers comparatively to the FC. FD parts will actually become NLA before you will be hard pressed to find even used FC parts.

but who knows, with the reman facilities focusing on 13B-MSP parts maybe eventually they will break out the early casting/die sets and start cutting up old engine parts again. here's to hoping they start making thick 3 rotor plates again.. mazdatrix has a few, but i dare you to go look at how much they want for them!