by request, autox fc ***pics
08-18-08, 03:08 PM
#101
Looks ahead!
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I have killed many, many, many cones...
i am not going to nats this year, still trying to get the car controllable, its got loads of grip and I am not a good enough driver to react both to what the car is doing as well as what I am about to need it to do. stuff happens really fast!!!
trying to get the brake balance correct on the staggered wheels…
Ive only been on this setup for 3 weekends so I still have allot of tweaking to get the car better.. and I have only done 7 autox’s myself. Ever.
i am not going to nats this year, still trying to get the car controllable, its got loads of grip and I am not a good enough driver to react both to what the car is doing as well as what I am about to need it to do. stuff happens really fast!!!
trying to get the brake balance correct on the staggered wheels…
Ive only been on this setup for 3 weekends so I still have allot of tweaking to get the car better.. and I have only done 7 autox’s myself. Ever.
For the wing I welded tabs to the rear hatch. Ill try to take a couple pics later today.
Im at 2500lbs with at least another 50 to lose…
Im going to build a swurl pot into the fuel system so I can lose 2 to 3 gal of the gas.
Now at max lateral I hit fuel starve at anything less then `6-7 gal
Now at max lateral I hit fuel starve at anything less then `6-7 gal
Now. I honestly don’t think that an fc can compete on the same ground with the fd’s or even the corvettes on an autocross. The unequal trailing arm and mc-poopy front suspension prevents us from getting any camber gain when we need it. There are just to many transitions that the suspension geometry cant cope with. Both the vetts and the fd’s camber gain through the transitions means that the 2 cars are much more responsive and controllable. Not to mention that they also get to use much more of there inside wheels then we do, se sig above…
You have yours down pretty light. Is it a TII???? Sorry, that should be obvious, but I couldn't see a sunroof lol.
I have been working on a lot of things for my car over the last 3 years. I am the utah region sm2 champ, but that doesn't mean anything more than I don't have competition locally. The only turbo miata that runs sm2 isn't even close to me because I have almost 100whp more than him and he is inexperienced.
I have been working on a lot of things for my car over the last 3 years. I am the utah region sm2 champ, but that doesn't mean anything more than I don't have competition locally. The only turbo miata that runs sm2 isn't even close to me because I have almost 100whp more than him and he is inexperienced.
Oh and one last question. Where have you taken weight out of that doesn't include removing interior? The bin cover panel is fairly heavy, I had thought to replace it with something a little lighter or something.
08-19-08, 02:01 AM
#102
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You have yours down pretty light. Is it a TII???? Sorry, that should be obvious, but I couldn't see a sunroof lol.
I have been working on a lot of things for my car over the last 3 years. I am the utah region sm2 champ, but that doesn't mean anything more than I don't have competition locally. The only turbo miata that runs sm2 isn't even close to me because I have almost 100whp more than him and he is inexperienced.
I have stock body panels. However I bought the molds from tripoint engineering for their rediculous wide body panels (3" on each side front and back) I plan on running 295 front 315 Rear. That reminds me, the FC already has a lot of rear brake bias. Don't worry too much about that till you find the limit of the front tires is much less than the rear. I can lock up my 225 hoosiers at will, but I need more rubber lol.
I hope that I can drop some more weight in a few places. I haven't finished by far. I have an aluminum n/a hood and its pretty light, and more sturdy than a fiberglass one.
The fc definately has a very generic suspension setup, but remember, if bmw's can make macpherson front strut suspension work well, then we can too. I find the rear grip to give up way before the front. Give it some time and experience and it will smooth right out.
Oh and one last question. Where have you taken weight out of that doesn't include removing interior? The bin cover panel is fairly heavy, I had thought to replace it with something a little lighter or something.
I have been working on a lot of things for my car over the last 3 years. I am the utah region sm2 champ, but that doesn't mean anything more than I don't have competition locally. The only turbo miata that runs sm2 isn't even close to me because I have almost 100whp more than him and he is inexperienced.
I have stock body panels. However I bought the molds from tripoint engineering for their rediculous wide body panels (3" on each side front and back) I plan on running 295 front 315 Rear. That reminds me, the FC already has a lot of rear brake bias. Don't worry too much about that till you find the limit of the front tires is much less than the rear. I can lock up my 225 hoosiers at will, but I need more rubber lol.
I hope that I can drop some more weight in a few places. I haven't finished by far. I have an aluminum n/a hood and its pretty light, and more sturdy than a fiberglass one.
The fc definately has a very generic suspension setup, but remember, if bmw's can make macpherson front strut suspension work well, then we can too. I find the rear grip to give up way before the front. Give it some time and experience and it will smooth right out.
Oh and one last question. Where have you taken weight out of that doesn't include removing interior? The bin cover panel is fairly heavy, I had thought to replace it with something a little lighter or something.
Ok short weight reduction list
sparco bucket seats with al mounts no sliders.
removed
stereo
speakers
steering wheel
factory carpet, replaced with aftermarket carpet.
water pump and housing.
ac
aluminum lug nuts
sun visors
exhaust replaced with SS
all the weight reduction on the engine with some more to come
many nuts and bolts that were "optional"
the stock front bumper skin was way heavy to.
on to the brakes my car IS NOT rear biased any more. I have the warn out A6's to prove it.
Also i never lose rear grip. ever, no mater what. even if I try. even if I set the car up to slide. nope not on a6's. all i get is push, SOOOOOOOOOOOOO
whats everyone’s view on front caster???? max it out?
08-19-08, 12:36 PM
#103
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I would start in the region of 4 degrees front caster and work north and south of there to see where you like it. More caster has the effect of making some camber gain on turn in. More caster makes it more drastic. In order to get some of your camber gain back, you can either modify the control arm, or do what I plan on doing and space the control arm at the ball joint mounting point downward. This will give the slight camber gain on compression back to you. Depending on your springrates, it will only need to be about 1" thick spacer, possibly 1.25". This is allowed within sm2 rules.
As far as the tripoint kit goes, I have both the fender molds, and one of their airdams. It is just over 75mm wider on all 4 fenders. I will atatch a picture or 2.
The great thing is that if I want, it will fit with the stock front bumper. Speaking of which, I guess I will have to look into a fiberglass one from awr or something. I haven't changed the seats yet, but I weighed my car last night and its sitting at 2592 with 4 gallons of gas and tools in the back with a power inverter and my laptop that I tune with. Probably about 2570 ish without all that in it.
Oh, and I also want to see a vertical picture to see about the body line limitation. I also was wondering where you got it or what brand it is.
As far as the tripoint kit goes, I have both the fender molds, and one of their airdams. It is just over 75mm wider on all 4 fenders. I will atatch a picture or 2.
The great thing is that if I want, it will fit with the stock front bumper. Speaking of which, I guess I will have to look into a fiberglass one from awr or something. I haven't changed the seats yet, but I weighed my car last night and its sitting at 2592 with 4 gallons of gas and tools in the back with a power inverter and my laptop that I tune with. Probably about 2570 ish without all that in it.
Oh, and I also want to see a vertical picture to see about the body line limitation. I also was wondering where you got it or what brand it is.
08-19-08, 12:46 PM
#104
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I always thought that to run a wing like that within the body lines you'd have to get the Wise Sport "ferrari" hatch would would probably be of dubious legality unless you could convince your competitors that it falls under the "trunk change" rule.
08-20-08, 01:09 PM
#105
re-amemiya body vert
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Wow, awesome FC. Thanks for sharing those great pictures. I take it the fans on the oil cooler is pushing air? Do you find that the fans have to kick in a lot?
08-20-08, 03:44 PM
#107
re-amemiya body vert
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Ah I see. I noticed you said that your oil temps never climbed past 215. Do you know off hand if the same is true if you're cruising with the fans off?
08-20-08, 04:29 PM
#108
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crusing at a moderate speed with no fans yes ~210 to 215. I have found that under drifting at low speed sustained 6000+rpm for over 3 minutes will yield an oil temp of almost 240!!!
12-19-08, 12:01 AM
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Also I have FINALLY got a good baseline on the suspension on the skid pad with the pyrometer.
I still need to rack and straiten the frame and subframe/4 pt the car before it can go around a road race track, otherwise I think I may never be able to close the doors again.
I think the car easily has the potential to run alongside anything short of a full tube frame racecar. but well see how much I can get out of it.
I dont think the car will get any lighter. I like the car maintaining a psudo streetcar/track day appearance (full interior, lights ect). so the weight that is left to pull out may just offset the cage and sub frame’s. I dont expect the #'s to change much. max lateral g's on fresh r6's should stay about ~1.35. braking should be at about 1.1 (having trouble with the compromise of the McPherson geometry under braking). I may still go up 25 to 30% on the spring rate to get some more out of the brakes. car pulls .5g's in 3rd at ~10psi. well go to 20psi after e85, intake, and manifold. so that number will go up allot. I dont think it will be a tru "G" car as Id have to take the turbo (almost) to its limit to achieve a 1.0 acceleration g load (at about 600whp).
Its really amazing to think back at all the work Ive done to this car. and I still think Im only about halfway!
Dont worry, when the car is closer Ill be back. My focus has been on a bunch of volvo's recently if you can believe that
12-19-08, 12:05 AM
#112
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mustang wheels 17x10.5 with a 315 40 17. 50mm rear over? better part of 2 inches. it took allot of tweaking to get them to sit the way I liked, and keep the origional shape of the car.
12-19-08, 09:17 AM
#113
if you are thinking of e85 as a fuel then id suggest looking into an HD alky sprayer. it will keep you on pump gas longer and you have the same abilities as e85 for cheaper. aem sells a kit for around 500 including a 5 gal tank. should help out a bit without having to change everything over for e85 compatibility. just a thought.
check out this thread for more info.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/making-case-rotary-powered-fd-fix-806104/
i know its written for the fd but all principles will carry over
check out this thread for more info.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/making-case-rotary-powered-fd-fix-806104/
i know its written for the fd but all principles will carry over
12-19-08, 11:31 AM
#114
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if you are thinking of e85 as a fuel then id suggest looking into an HD alky sprayer. it will keep you on pump gas longer and you have the same abilities as e85 for cheaper. aem sells a kit for around 500 including a 5 gal tank. should help out a bit without having to change everything over for e85 compatibility. just a thought.
check out this thread for more info.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=806104
i know its written for the fd but all principles will carry over
check out this thread for more info.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=806104
i know its written for the fd but all principles will carry over
Im actually setting my car up to run E85. my intake is perfect to take advantage of the cooling effect of the fuel.
The only thing I have to change is the injectors. 4x1600cc secondary… I may just run 850’s in the primaries so I can still start the thing on the pump gas map.
were allready running 2 cars on e85, a supercharged 240sx and a gt30r 94. so weve got our E85 methodology down. we really like it.
04-13-09, 12:30 AM
#116
I have a couple pictures saved and the rear shot set as my wallpaper. I LOVE this car. How wide are those wheels? I'm thinking about staying within the limits of the shell/panels and will be using a set of 17X8.5 front & 17X9.5 rears ET35 for both (225/255 / 50/45 / 17 tires respective to Front/Rear (unless I can go wider without clearing issues)). What would you recommend as a daily driven car & weekend lapping/circuit/auto-x car?
04-13-09, 02:08 AM
#117
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I have a couple pictures saved and the rear shot set as my wallpaper. I LOVE this car. How wide are those wheels? I'm thinking about staying within the limits of the shell/panels and will be using a set of 17X8.5 front & 17X9.5 rears ET35 for both (225/255 / 50/45 / 17 tires respective to Front/Rear (unless I can go wider without clearing issues)). What would you recommend as a daily driven car & weekend lapping/circuit/auto-x car?
THanks!
17x9 and 17x10.5 mustang rims
275 and 315
you can run 275/40 in the rear with a roller on the lip
I think I tucked 245 45 on the front stock with coilover. Im running mariah wide fronts so for a while I was on 275 F+R.
BUT PLEASE DONT RUN A STAGGER! stick with a 225 or 235 front and rear. rt-615's
you have no idea how much work it took for me to get this car to handle again after the big rears.
04-13-09, 09:48 PM
#118
THanks!
17x9 and 17x10.5 mustang rims
275 and 315
you can run 275/40 in the rear with a roller on the lip
I think I tucked 245 45 on the front stock with coilover. Im running mariah wide fronts so for a while I was on 275 F+R.
BUT PLEASE DONT RUN A STAGGER! stick with a 225 or 235 front and rear. rt-615's
you have no idea how much work it took for me to get this car to handle again after the big rears.
17x9 and 17x10.5 mustang rims
275 and 315
you can run 275/40 in the rear with a roller on the lip
I think I tucked 245 45 on the front stock with coilover. Im running mariah wide fronts so for a while I was on 275 F+R.
BUT PLEASE DONT RUN A STAGGER! stick with a 225 or 235 front and rear. rt-615's
you have no idea how much work it took for me to get this car to handle again after the big rears.
04-14-09, 01:28 AM
#119
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Holy sweet jesus @ 275/315 F/R! Well like I said, I was planning on a 225 Front (17X8.5 wheel) and 255 (17X9.5 wheel). I do not on plan on adding wide fenders or anything besides fender rolling/pull if I must by the time I have a better idea of how coilovers would effect fitment/clearing issues. I do want to have that extra meat look on the wheels but nothing overkill, after researching for sometime after my post, I found that a .5" per side of the wheel is a respectful amount of tire while looking nice. With this rim/tire sizing, a 45 sidewall would be ideal, no? I would thinka 50 may rub, and I don't want to go too low profile and sacrifice too much "comfort" if you can call it that =]. Thanks, do you have an ongoing thread with this FC? Definately my idol car ahaha
besides this one? do you have a build thread? sidewall bad... unless its on a bike!
04-14-09, 05:21 AM
#120
whats a Turbo V?
04-14-09, 10:49 AM
#121
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