Soccerguy136

Little bit of background, car has been stored for about a year. Was sprayed with Fogging oil prior to storage and then every so often into the spark plug holes and manually turned over. During some bouts of nice weather I went to start it but it wouldn't catch. It turns over and sounds great, just not catching at all. I followed the de-flooding guides (up until they recommended using ATF) but to no avail. The plugs are dry when removing so that doesn't seem like it's the issue. When the fuel check connection is jumped I can smell (and see due to a slightly leaky crush washer) the fuel in the rail. Here is one of the threads I followed:

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...r-coil-957469/

I made it all the way to the end, but my car measured "correctly" for all the responses so it didn't resolve my problem.

The second part of this post is that I tried to make a code reader by following one of the guides: TUTORIAL FOR CHECKING CODES CODES (FC3S) ? Derwin

However the LEDs never lit up (https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-12529-84911.aspx). Hooking the lights up to the battery results in them being lit. Just not when connected to DCC1 or DCC2. I am getting 12v on ABR though.

It also doesn't seem to make a difference which way they are hooked up, if that matters.

I appreciate any insights into either of these points. Thanks!

Soccerguy136

Anyone have any advice?

Barnahadnagy

Are you getting anything on the tach? If yes then there should be spark and the ECU is working (you can also use a timing light to check). If this is the case I would look at fuel, especially considering your plugs are dry after trying to start it so much.
As for the codes, did you connect them and then turn the key to IGN? The lights will go on for a few seconds when the ECU is powered on, then go off completely if you have no error codes.

cereal

have you checked the fuses in the engine bay as well as inside the car?

Soccerguy136

No, I am not getting anything on the tach. I did ohm out the trailing coil (and primary) and it spec'd out okay, but I know it's possible the igniter is causing the tach issue.

Per that thread I was reading, I was getting power to various wires that confirmed the ECU was working (Posts 19 & 20).

Yes, I turned the key to IGN when testing and they never illuminated at all.

Yes, I checked the fuses in the engine bay and inside the car.

The car is currently covered and stored for the next few months, but I'll post back when I pull it out to start diagnosing. Thanks for suggestions!

Soccerguy136

I made a new thread but figured I would respond to this one as well.

After hooking the coils together, I am now getting a slight tach reading. So it seems as though the trailing coil is not working. I didn't think that would cause a no start, but perhaps there is another issue going on?

The car is still not starting and here is a video:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/16bG...2cO_PV4DZ/view

rlynchster

If it was me, I'd change the water temp sensor behind the alternator and replace the Air Mass Flow Meter.. . . .Replace the fuel filter as well.

Probably cost about $180 in parts

Set the Throttle position sensor voltage per the field service manual.

While replacing the mass air meter I'd do the fuel pump check/jumper test per the FSM. . . And also check the fuel pump by pushing on the mass air meter vane when the key is in the second position.. . . .Both instances you should hear the fuel pump kick on.. . . Both tests are pretty easy. .. . . You can do both these checks without spending anything if you want.

Doing these things mostly rules out fuel and air and air/fuel mix during startup.

Also, if you can, blank off the EGR valve/plug the vacuum line to it, and plug the double throttle valve actuator vacuum line.. Most likely they leak on the vacuum line.. . .. . The EGR requires the removal of the upper intake to do this but also opens up the possibility of easily changing the trailing fuel injectors and seals around them. .. . .You most likely have 460cc injectors probably low impendence and you have a resistor pack but check on this as the design changed to high impedance injectors at the end of 86/87


Measure the BACV resistance and the IAT resistance per the FSM.. . .Both are easy assuming you get the BACV connector off without breaking it.

Soccerguy136

The water temp sensor is new(ish) actually. Probably not even a year old and definitely hooked up.

From looking through the service manual, it looked like the car had to be warmed up to adjust the TPS and needs some checker lamps, which I don't have.

I tested both the AFM flapper door and the Fuel pump check connector and both are triggering the relay (audible click). However, I no longer seem to be hearing the fuel pump, so hopefully that is the issue. I'm going to check that out today.

The AFM isn't new, but I tested it with a multi-meter according to the FSM, and it all checked out good. Ditto the BACV (I did not break the connector btw). The FSM says to remove the IAT sensor to test, which didn't seem necessary to me. It seemed to read in spec, though the ranges are pretty large.

I also checked the CAS with the multi-meter per the FSM and it checked out okay. I took the cover off and spun it by hand and could audibly hear the injectors clicking, so that's good news as well. They were cleaned and flow tested and new seals only a year or so ago.

Soccerguy136

Update, the car has no spark on any of the coils. I tested with an inline spark checker using one wire at a time with the other 3 unhooked. For final verification, I checked one wire (leading coil) with plug held to ground to make sure it wasn't just a bad spark checker and still saw nothing.

Apparently seeing RPM on the tachometer does not mean it has spark. I looked at the two leading coil wires, and it's showing 12V on the B/Y wire and alternating between 5V and 0V on the G/Y wire when turning the engine by hand. So apparently the wiring is working. The coils checked out in spec with a multi meter per the FSM, is it possible they could not only both have blown but be reading in spec as well? Something seems wrong here?

Barnahadnagy

Not sure how the spark checker operates, but could your spark plugs be broken? I had a pair of plugs (trailing) that just didn't work, at all. No spark when grounded, no spark picked up by timing light when they were installed. Coil was working as it was producing RPM signal. Swapped to new plugs, everything works fine. Came broken in the box, but only the two trailings, with nothing visible externally. Other suspect item would be the spark wires. Also, technically isn't your trailing coil broken as you only get RPM when using the check connector on the leading one?

I'd try other spark plugs and visually see if they spark if they are grounded and the engine is turned. Just don't shock yourself like I did

Soccerguy136

A spark checker goes inline between the spark plug wire and the spark plug. Like so: https://www.harborfreight.com/in-lin...ker-63590.html

Even if the spark plugs were bad, the spark checker should still spark as it just uses the plugs for a ground. So it's definitely the coil not sparking, seemingly. I suppose it could be the wires, but it would be pretty weird for all 4 not to work. They're not very old either.

Yes, I do have the trailing coil bullet connector tied to the leading. I wasn't getting any RPM movement without, though even though I'm now getting some blips on the RPM I'm not seeing any spark. So I'm really confused at to what exactly is going on. Hopefully someone can chime in with something.

Soccerguy136

Update, car definitely has spark. I had the EGI Comp fuse removed so it wouldn't flood, not realizing that would prevent spark as well as fuel injection. So I can now confirm the car has spark on both coils. Trailing coil was actually sparking fine as well, so not sure why the bullet connector is needed for the tach to function, but not the most pressing concern right now.

So now that I know for sure it's fuel, I jumpered the check connector, turned the key to on, and made sure the fuel pump wiring harness on the rear shock tower was getting 12V. It was, and I'm still not hearing any sound from the pump. So now I can be reasonably sure that is my issue. I'm still going to put a fuel pressure gauge to it when I get a chance, but hopefully this thread will help someone else deal with this issue.

Brrraaap

something to try in a situation where you don't know whether its spark or fuel would be to unplug the injectors and crank it while spraying fuel into the manifold from like a spray bottle.

Soccerguy136

After testing fuel pressure, car had none. So I think I found my issue. Pulled the pump and it looks okay though the factory power wire has seen better days. Trying to source fuel safe wiring is not easy locally these days. Will post back once it's all done, but probably won't be for a week or so since it's 100+ degrees every day this week. Classic July in the Midwest.

rlynchster

Yep. . .You'll hear fuel running through the fuel rail if the pump is working and the engine is off. . .(vane test or fuel pump jumper test.) .. I doubt you can have a situation where the pump works and you have no fuel pressure. .. . (assuming the fuel filter is not clogged like a rock.). . .I guess it's possible but highly unlikely.

That being said, a clogged fuel filter can cause a fuel pump to work against back pressure and cause it to fail so It's not a bad idea to replace that while you are dealing with the fuel system.

Soccerguy136

I actually have a fuel filter to go on there, but was waiting until I pulled it out of storage and ran through some of the older (fuel stabilizer) gas. That was before this though, so might as well do it now so I don't have to deal with anymore fuel spillage haha.

I wasn't sure how loud / quiet the pump should be stock. In my other car I have a Walbro, so there's no question if it were to go out.

I honestly made this whole thing much harder on myself than I should have, but I learned a lot of ins and outs of the car along the way. So it was a good learning experience.