1adzam

OK. I've searched the board for a similar tyep situation but couldn't find anything...

I just finished my rebuild and it went marvelously. Got the engine back in the car and all of the externals hooked up. Everything went back where it came off of and I was very careful to check and re-check all connections. When I went to start the car for the first time (anticipating it wouldn't start because of everything I've read) much to my surprise after about 5 seconds of cranking it started. It ran rough for about 4 seconds and I hit the gas pedal just little to lift the RPM's(I hope not stupidly) and it died. Now it won't even sound like it wants to start. I thought maybe it got flooded so I did all the unflood procedures but it won't go. Since it started for a brief time I would assume it has spark and fuel (I pulled the plugs and they were not saturated but they smelled like gas).

Going to try some of the standard start techniques tomorrow but I thought I would ask to see if anyone has any ideas on why it would start for a few seconds and then die when the accelerator was pushed and then not restart. Oh incidentally I did prime the fuel line and followed the Haynes manual and Atkins video to the letter for the start-up process. Ideas??????

V8kilr

If you are using new spark plugs then swap your old ones back in.

trust me

hypntyz7

Keys:

Be sure fuel pump runs continuously as it should, sometimes after sitting they do not always run. Be sure your fuel lines are not reversed at the engine, as the FPR acts as a one way valve and will restrict fuel to the injectors. Be sure your AFM is plugged in and the flapper moves freely, sometimes they stick when allowed to sit unused. Same for TPS. Check and recheck timing, this is a common mistake on rebuild installs. Finally, put in more atf (MMO doesnt do the trick in most cases) and swap out plugs until it goes.

BTW< I usually keep rebuilds pegged on 2500 for the first 5-10 minutes, then drop it to 2000 for 5 minutes, then 1500 and leave it there for a good while (several hundred miles), it just helps driveability. Do NOT even worry about setting idle or TPS for a while, remember your new engine changes daily.

You will likely, unless you used near perfect rotor housings, have it flood on you the first few days, so you'll want a method to control fuel delivery on shutdown/startup. I always have a cut switch installed on s4 cars ahead of time because I know theyll need it.

praveen

I jsut rebuilt my engine and ive been trying to start it for 3 days now...i got spark and fuel delivery but wont even fore once....my battery isnt the best....do you think thats the problem? also only primary injectors are working but isnt that normal since secondary only starts when engine is loaded?
pls help.....

V8kilr

A fully charged battery is a MUST, and a nice charging/starting battery charger

yes secondaries only work at x rpm