BeaufortRX7

I know this is probably a dumb question but I’ve never done transmission work. On my 88 vert my clutch pedal sticks to the floor when it’s depressed and doesn’t come back up unless it’s pulled. I replaced my clutch, PP, TOB, master and slave cylinders, and when I push on the clutch fork from the top of the transmission there’s nothing pushing it back towards the slave cylinder, I assume this is a clutch fork spring, ordered a new one through Mazda and I have no idea how to install, and there’s no posts I can find about it. Any help please?

WondrousBread

Are you sure that you bled the clutch properly after the replacement? And to clarify, did you start working on the clutch to remedy this problem or did this problem occur after doing other work on the clutch? Lastly, does the clutch function otherwise normally except for the pedal return, or does the clutch not function?

The clutch fork (when you press it from the top of the transmission) is pushing the throwout bearing against the clutch pressure plate. If you're able to push the clutch fork from above without any resistance at all, then something else is wrong here. It should be very hard to press (since you're flexing the fingers on the pressure plate) and want to spring back. If you just mean that it isn't returning all the way to the slave cylinder piston, that's normal. The slave cylinder (when filled with fluid) takes up that slack, so I would suspect it might not be bled completely.

When you say the clutch fork spring, do you mean the clip type thing with a small loop in the middle? That spring is designed to retain the fork on the pivot ball, but it doesn't have any effect on the clutch returning to its home position.

BeaufortRX7

when I push the clutch there’s resistance, but it’s when the slave isn’t being pushed out the fork doesn’t come back to a point where the slave returns and brings the pedal back up

WondrousBread

Okay, so it sounds like the best thing to try is to bleed it and make sure there's no air. It's easiest with an assistant, put a small clear tube over the bleed screw on the slave cylinder and put the tube into a container of some sort. Leave the cap off the master cylinder and keep it topped up. Open the bleed screw (8mm wrench), and have your assistant press and hold the pedal down. Then close the bleed screw and have the assistant let off the pedal (pull it up, if it isn't springing back). Repeat until the fluid coming out through the tube has no bubbles. Ensure the fluid is topped up in the master cylinder throughout this process or you'll need to start again.

BeaufortRX7

Already bled it 4 separate times (gravity bled out of the car and installed without disassembling, then double checked it while in place) no air in line

BeaufortRX7

clutch has been bleed, I think I found the problem, it’s missing the little bolt stop thing at the top of the fork, would you happen to know the thread size by any chance?

scratch that I thought the pivot point went in the hole at the top of the fork, but watching people install TOB their fork wants to pull back away from the engine, mine will just sit there and not move

WondrousBread

I can take a picture / video for you later (at work currently), but there is no bolt stop to my knowledge on the clutch fork.

The clutch fork "resting" position is closer to the engine, and when you push back on the fork (toward the firewall) you're pressing on the pressure plate like the slave cylinder would. The only thing I can imagine is that maybe you're missing the little piston that goes on the end of the slave cylinder? Sometimes they come disassembled. I'll post pictures / video when I can.

WondrousBread

Conveniently my engine bay is still mostly disassembled, so I was able to get a decent video for you. Sorry about the angle; I don't have anyone else to hold the camera right now so I needed to prop it on something.

Anyways, it should show you what it is supposed to look like when it's working: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6j_5...ature=youtu.be

BeaufortRX7

the problem is it’s not returning when I let off the clutch

BeaufortRX7

The spring on the fork was not installed properly but it still has not eliminated the problem ive been trying to chase down. Fully bled new master and slave cylinders (no air or leaks in lines either), TOB and spring for the clutch fork are properly installed, along with the new clutch and pressure plate. with the master cylinder off the firewall i push in the piston to simulate the pedal being pushed to the floor and the slave moves but not enough for the clutch to disengage and let me shift into gear so i dont think it is the adjustment on the pedal either. any one have a clue???