Just wondering who out there has both and how it was done.
Thanks.

 

Contact Logan, he runs Defined Autoworks and is a member here.

His "20b Conversion Deluxe Kit for FD3S Third Gen Rx-7" retains power steering and A.C.:

DEFINED AUTOWORKS


Here is his user info, very awesome stand up guy who took time out to answer many questions I had about a conversion too.

RX7Club.com - View Profile: GtoRx7


Hope this helps.

 

I am installing an electric steering motor under the dash. You can get them from unisteer and mk2 mania. It keeps the engine bay clean and frees up some power.

I also added a coleman reducer which makes it a 2 turn lock instead of 3.

 

hey wouter will that set up work in a fc?

 

It will work in any car as you have to fabricate everything from rack to steering wheel to fit it.

 

My engine is moved back so I had both. I recently removed the power steering pump and looped the lines as to me it isn't neccessary in our light cars.

 

^^
Agreed.

Unless you're drifting, I see no need for powersteering either. Even with the weight of the 20b, the wheel is extremely easy to turn as compared to most cars. The road feel is enchanced, the potential of over-correcting is decreased, the weight savings is beneficial, the simplicity under the hood is beneficial. Many complain that looping the lines makes it way harder than "correctly" converting the rack too; I've ran both looped and converted and still notice nothing. Maybe they need to do some forearm curls The only time it sucks is when you're at a stand-still and try to turn the wheel. If you're moving .5mph its way easier

 

The resistence comes from NOT modifying the rack fittings to increase the orifice size. Most don't do that when they loop the lines. Those fittings are very restrictive in stock form. I have training in fluid dynamics. I drilled my fittings to a larger internal diameter to allow for more fluid to transfer to the other side of the rack. I then cut off the factory threads and tig welded a 3/8" Parker JIC male fitting to the factory fitting so I could connect a 3/8" hydraulic line as the loop. I also didn't want a permanent solution by cutting out the internal piston. If wanna put the power steering back, I can.

 

Plug the feed/return lines and loop the RAM lines. Much simpler...

 

I've tried the non p/s and I have no desire to put any muscle into my steering wheel. I've gone with an EHPS as there is no room under the hood with turbo filter and v-mount ic. A Toyota p/s pump resides under the drivers side headlight. It is something similar to the MR2, with a speed sensor hooked to the Vipec.
I'm in the process of ditching the clutch fork for a hydraulic (push type) bearing on my T56, so I'll let you all know how the p/s works once I have the car running again.
Thanks

 

No problem doing this.