1989 GTUs 20B N/A Build Thread

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Old May 31, 2011 | 12:25 AM
  #151  
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Yeah we will get it together, semi p-port setup for your car will be very dialed in once we get it all on the engine. I am excited to see this beast driving down the road with your foot planted
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Old May 31, 2011 | 12:25 AM
  #152  
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The 305 just isn't available for street.

I think I am going to go with ADVAN Neova AD08.

Front: 255/40/17

Rear: 295/30/18

At least that is what I think tonight. Well now I can go to bed..

And yes Logan, me too!!
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 12:55 PM
  #153  
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Tri-point isn't gone btw.

http://roninspeedworks.squarespace.c...int-wide-body/
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 02:25 PM
  #154  
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Thanks Gordon.. That really means a lot from a veteran gear head like yourself. I am starting to get excited about having this car back!!

TweakGames: I know Tri-Point as a company is still around. As far as the fenders, I thought some company bought rights and were making them but thought I had read they were not very well made. These guys seem to have a nice fitting product.

It is a bit radical for this project. They add 85mm to front and 80 to rear...Awesome!! That makes my 30mm/50mm seem kind of weak but for this project perfect.

I still love that kit. If I was going to build a FC race car it would have a LSX and these fenders. MUST RESIST....NO MORE PROJECTS!! I am currently putting a Cummins 12V in my 1997 F-350 and a Lexus 4.0 1UZFE in a 1987 4Runner. But I sure would love a track car..

Thank for the link!! TweakGames is there a thread out there with your car??
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Old Jun 17, 2011 | 01:11 PM
  #155  
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One more picture. This is the polyester primer that is being applied.

Logan should have the car back by the first week in July hopefully..

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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 12:30 PM
  #156  
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And what's the final colour gonna be?
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 01:02 PM
  #157  
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No updates??? Logan should have had the car back 1 1/2 MONTHS AGO!!!

Also, I'd like to point out the one flaw in your car's build so it can be corrected. The radiator and oil cooler aren't shock-mounted, they're sitting directly on steel. While the steel frame will do just fine, the aluminum of the heat exchangers is going to fatigue VERY quickly and crack. Google "Fatigue Life" and you'll understand why this happens. I learned this from Lynn Hanover and the solution is being implemented on my own car too.

Fortunately, the mounting design should allow for easy and cheap correction. Just get some 1/2" thick weatherstripping from Lowes and line the the surfaces where the radiator/oil cooler will fit against. You'll have to add 1/4" to both ends to allow for vibration (compressing the weatherstrip 50%), but that will be enough to prevent a horrific and expensive failure.
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 03:11 PM
  #158  
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The color will be original color using Spies Hecker paint.

The paint and body guy is behind (imagine that). Logan will have the car around the first or second week in September. I did get free delivery back to Logan's for the delay. After all this time I don't get to upset about this stuff.

As for the radiator and oil cooler mounting, I know that it is not finished. So I can't say that what you see is the final way it will be mounted. It still has to be powder coated.

I know every time I bring up something with Logan he is usually about five steps ahead of me. I imagine he will read this and take note or possibly comment.

Thanks for the concern..
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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 05:50 PM
  #159  
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UPDATE:

I have once again delayed my own project with my need for it to be perfect..well perfect to me.

Once the fenders and paint were done we realized that the Mariah front fenders will only allow a 235 up front. What the **** is the point in that!!

On Mariah's web page they say 1.25" wider. I made the ignorant mistake of thinking that meant 1.25" wider usable tire space. I guess it means the fender is actually 1.25" wider.

Whatever, not really that big of a deal.

Doug is going to do the same thing to the front fenders as was done to the rear; custom metal fender flares.

This will also give Logan time to get further along with the slide throttle R&D.

I have pictures but they are body shop pictures. You know, white dust in all of the cracks, dirty windshield and super ugly tires that don't fill the fenders anyway.
I will show pictures when body work is done and new wheels and tires are on.

I will be using Toyo R888 295/18 rear and 255/18 front. The front will be 100% usable in all possible conditions of suspension travel from lock to lock. The f/r tires are both 25.1" tall. That is .1" taller than stock. I think it is a great combination without being to radical.

See you in a couple of months..
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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 11:26 PM
  #160  
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Talking

Originally Posted by Christopher W.
I think I am going to go with ADVAN Neova AD08.
GREAT choice
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 10:29 AM
  #161  
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Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
GREAT choice
I am kinda of stuck between the Advans or the Toyo R888. I am definitely leaning toward the Toyo.

I will soon be living out in the country. I mean I have to buy a trailer just trailer the car to the nearest asphalt...only 1.5 miles...but this is not going to be a cruise around town and run down to the store car. I will be purposefully going for a drive in the Ozark Mtns. or heading to a track day at Hallet.

The issue for me is that I am basically buying tires from internet chatter.

At one time I was concerned about quiet tires. I don't care now. The Toyo seem to heat up reasonably fast for basically a track tire.

We will see. I do really like what I have read about the ADVAN Neova AD08. My concern is there ability to handle track days..
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 12:19 AM
  #162  
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Originally Posted by Akagis_white_comet
No updates??? Logan should have had the car back 1 1/2 MONTHS AGO!!!

Also, I'd like to point out the one flaw in your car's build so it can be corrected. The radiator and oil cooler aren't shock-mounted, they're sitting directly on steel. While the steel frame will do just fine, the aluminum of the heat exchangers is going to fatigue VERY quickly and crack. Google "Fatigue Life" and you'll understand why this happens. I learned this from Lynn Hanover and the solution is being implemented on my own car too.

Fortunately, the mounting design should allow for easy and cheap correction. Just get some 1/2" thick weatherstripping from Lowes and line the the surfaces where the radiator/oil cooler will fit against. You'll have to add 1/4" to both ends to allow for vibration (compressing the weatherstrip 50%), but that will be enough to prevent a horrific and expensive failure.
Travis, first of all, you come off sounding like a jerk. Second, I would think it is more than obvious I would not mount a aluminum radiator and oil cooler directly on steel. This is so much in the elementary of fabrication rules personally I am offended you even mentioned a "flaw" like this. I mean seriously??? Thanks for all that amazing insight though.

Last edited by GtoRx7.; Oct 25, 2011 at 12:22 AM.
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 12:46 PM
  #163  
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Originally Posted by GtoRx7.
Travis, first of all, you come off sounding like a jerk. Second, I would think it is more than obvious I would not mount a aluminum radiator and oil cooler directly on steel. This is so much in the elementary of fabrication rules personally I am offended you even mentioned a "flaw" like this. I mean seriously??? Thanks for all that amazing insight though.
Sorry if I came across as offensive, I wasn't aware that you knew of this rule as well. I just thought you may have overlooked this detail at the time and were concentrating on another section of the car such as the engine and transmission mounting or wiring, which is very understandable. Pretty sure I'd do that too

Since you already had it accounted for, all the better.
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 11:22 PM
  #164  
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Chris,

"I did hear on here somewhere an orange 2nd gen 20B N/A PP on a race track. OMG...I get dizzy thinking that in about 4 months I am going to have something like that here at home."



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8K9R...eature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r9dwE...eature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1qPlv...eature=related

....and while I am at it....probably the cleanest sounding 20B turbo....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hIedw0KVU1k
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 10:11 AM
  #165  
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That's a great way to start the morning!! Thanks for the videos. I have seen one of them, not all.

Ha, four months......

It is getting closer though. I ordered wheels and tires last week. The expected ship date is 11-14-11. Doug said he will be on the fenders the day the wheels show up.

They will build the front fender around the wheel. That is what he usually does and we should have done in the first place. But oh well, here we are doing it right the second time.

I am not going to tell which wheels until I have photographs. Kinda childish maybe but I feel like doing it that way.

The sizes are:

Front: 18x9 +23 Toyo R888 255/35R18
Rear: 18x11 +38 Toyo R888 295/30R18

It looks like the slide throttle development is going to take longer than expected. So we are going to do the 90mm with custom intake plenum. This is different than the original plan. It is going to be more race looking than factory hot rod. In the future if the slides get worked out and produce more power we can install them with minimal fuss.

I am also having a guy in Australia make the mufflers. His name is Kevin and his company is AES. He makes them with mild steel and rockwool. The sound is deep and throaty. I think the biggest complaint might be they are too quiet. I know they will be heavier but so what.. He said around 14lbs per muffler.

http://ausrotary.com/viewtopic.php?f...44f3f9bea9158a

I have dumped the idea of butterfly valve in the exhaust and using the two different exhaust pipe sizes on the y pipe. Although Kevin is actually very involved in building and installing valves in his exhaust systems. I am going for simplicity. The point in my case was to make the car quieter in town and now I won't be living in town. The mufflers are going to take care of that issue anyway.
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 05:56 PM
  #166  
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Well, it seems we are back on for the slide throttles!!

I will let Logan discuss reasons and all. I am very happy about that.
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 11:13 PM
  #167  
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Since the rear fenders were basically modeled off of the Mariah front fenders, we decided to just modify the Mariah fender instead of the original metal fenders.

Here is a look on how it was done. Still waiting for final paint after the holidays.

My car should be at Defined in the next three weeks.



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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 09:27 PM
  #168  
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Ha, well another change!!

After getting one of the front Mariah fiberglass fenders widened it was decided....NO!

So no we rip up the original metal fenders. Luckily not on my dime but on Dougs!!

I have included Doug's comments with the photos.

"I think this will work better. After roughing in the custom fiberglass fender fattening, it became apparent that to get the right look we’d have to use the steel fenders. A more graceful line can be done this way, a look that’s truer to the original shape, and a perfect match to the rear."




"The rear of the fender gets relived vertically so that the original shape of the fender is maintained while allowing the flare to begin as subtly as possible."


Here is picture of the wheels I bought from Forgeline. It is their new GW3R wheel.



Front: 18x9 +23 Toyo R888 255/35R18
Rear: 18x11 +38 Toyo R888 295/30R18

That was a hard decision. At the very last minute...I mean last seconds of placing the order I went against my life long love of exposed bolts. I got the hidden option. I also got the center lock conversion.

This picture is a little darker than I am wanting but only one I have here.

The pictures I have been sent of the wheels on the car where with a camera phone and made the centers almost look blue. I am after a bright silver center section but not polished or machined and a polished lip. I have seen different pictures of the same wheels and some they look almost gun metal (I don't want) and sometimes they look bright silver. If I don't like it I send them back and change the color for $80.00 a wheel. I will know for sure when I go pick up the car to take it to Defined.
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 10:33 PM
  #169  
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nice build
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Old Feb 21, 2012 | 10:36 AM
  #170  
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I like those wheels a lot. Nice.
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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 08:45 AM
  #171  
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I love it! That car looks absolutely stunning.
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 10:11 AM
  #172  
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Man, awesome build! Any progress?

I hate to say it, because you've mentioned your disgust for shoddy drift kits, but will we arleast see this animal slammed in the future? Low and Wide!!!
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 03:01 PM
  #173  
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Beautiful build, I love everything you are doing there, especially retaining the storage bins and rear visibility with the roll bar.

Its a good thing those front fenders are on Doug's dime because they are completely uncecessary. The wheel and tires sizes you selected fit under stock fenders....and I would imagine the Mariah fenders as well.
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Old Jul 7, 2012 | 12:27 AM
  #174  
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...? Seriously? Those sizes will in no way fit under a stock FC.


Originally Posted by sharingan 19
Beautiful build, I love everything you are doing there, especially retaining the storage bins and rear visibility with the roll bar.

Its a good thing those front fenders are on Doug's dime because they are completely uncecessary. The wheel and tires sizes you selected fit under stock fenders....and I would imagine the Mariah fenders as well.
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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 08:54 PM
  #175  
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Originally Posted by sharingan 19
Beautiful build, I love everything you are doing there, especially retaining the storage bins and rear visibility with the roll bar.

Its a good thing those front fenders are on Doug's dime because they are completely uncecessary. The wheel and tires sizes you selected fit under stock fenders....and I would imagine the Mariah fenders as well.
Dude are you serious...no way those wheels and tires will fit under a stock fender. Plus the guy that specs the wheels for Doug knows his ****... Race car **** not ghetto street rides. If he says this is the widest to fit then I go with him. I also don't want any rubbing at all.....any rubbing at all at full compression on a corner. That was his direction. Ain't no hack job rolled fender crap here...ha, ha.

The car is suppose to be done from the body shop around the end of July....must mean the end of September. It has been a long freakin time on every single thing I ever do with cars....or have people do. Doug is super apologetic...How can you predict your main guy is going to up and quite after ten years. He ended up with a back log of three months...at least my car is getting shipped back to Logan on his dime...saves me 900.00.

I am just way to freakin nice. Maybe if I would throw a fit and every once in a while...
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