1989 GTUs 20B N/A Build Thread
02-27-10, 06:46 AM
#76
Rotary Nerd
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Georgia
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There isn't going to be a hood clearance issue.
Everything is still moving...slowly but still moving. I think Logan will have it running in the next couple of months. Basically the winter has been the issue I think more than anything.
This thing is about 90% paid for.
Don't think that this is another project that ran out of money.
I will update when there is something to update.
Everything is still moving...slowly but still moving. I think Logan will have it running in the next couple of months. Basically the winter has been the issue I think more than anything.
This thing is about 90% paid for.
Don't think that this is another project that ran out of money. I will update when there is something to update.
I will one day be doing a build like this also
. I'm currently in school, a father, and a husband, so it might take a while but I will get there. Your actually building my dream RX-7 as well. But it will be different because I will be doing all the work on the car instead of paying someone, anyways your doing a great job and hope to see more pictures soon!! 
02-27-10, 01:18 PM
#77
Yea, I do the work that I am able to or have the time. I am glad to pay someone to do things like the engine and the roll bar. I am interested in getting as close to perfection as I can. I know where my limits are.
Thanks for the compliments.
Thanks for the compliments.
03-10-10, 12:56 PM
#79
i can only attribute my not seeing the updates of this project to the fact that i don't really frequent the 20B Forum (simply because i don't have one 
). anyway, i don't know where to begin ... my head is spinning right now.
the header is seriously a work of art. i think Logan could make one for a SoHo gallery and probably make enough to go on a proper vacation!
i'd prostitute myself for one of those and i don't even have a 20B. in all seriousness though, i'd say it's the best design i've seen thus far. even without "knowing" the math involved, it's apparent that this unit was thought out, not just put together. kudos to you, Logan and congratulations to you, ChristopherW.
the ignition system also stirs smiles from my happy parts. i love it! since i jumped straight to this page, i'll go back through and read the whole thread to see what details i've missed before i ask for any.
the brake caliper is impressive as well.
). anyway, i don't know where to begin ... my head is spinning right now.the header is seriously a work of art. i think Logan could make one for a SoHo gallery and probably make enough to go on a proper vacation!
i'd prostitute myself for one of those and i don't even have a 20B. in all seriousness though, i'd say it's the best design i've seen thus far. even without "knowing" the math involved, it's apparent that this unit was thought out, not just put together. kudos to you, Logan and congratulations to you, ChristopherW.the ignition system also stirs smiles from my happy parts. i love it! since i jumped straight to this page, i'll go back through and read the whole thread to see what details i've missed before i ask for any.
the brake caliper is impressive as well.
03-10-10, 04:51 PM
#80
Senior Member
More and more 20B N/A PP engines to the people I have only built one but i hope i will build more of them in the future! Look at www.tsmotor.com under "racing" Mazda 3 rotor that short block have i assembled. It has Japanese made intake and ML Wankeltrim ported exhaust
It,s balanced and has 9:7 cr rotors with atkins 2 mm apex seals but mostly stock parts.I think the owner Tommy will use a Emerald Ecu and a Australian made intake manifold. This is a FC real racing car and should be completed this summer and dyno tested on his rolling road
/Lasse
I have only built one but i hope i will build more of them in the future! Look at www.tsmotor.com under "racing" Mazda 3 rotor that short block have i assembled. It has Japanese made intake and ML Wankeltrim ported exhaustIt,s balanced and has 9:7 cr rotors with atkins 2 mm apex seals but mostly stock parts.I think the owner Tommy will use a Emerald Ecu and a Australian made intake manifold. This is a FC real racing car and should be completed this summer and dyno tested on his rolling road/Lasse
05-29-10, 09:11 PM
#83
More and more 20B N/A PP engines to the people I have only built one but i hope i will build more of them in the future! Look at www.tsmotor.com under "racing" Mazda 3 rotor that short block have i assembled. It has Japanese made intake and ML Wankeltrim ported exhaustIt,s balanced and has 9:7 cr rotors with atkins 2 mm apex seals but mostly stock parts.I think the owner Tommy will use a Emerald Ecu and a Australian made intake manifold. This is a FC real racing car and should be completed this summer and dyno tested on his rolling road
/Lasse
I have only built one but i hope i will build more of them in the future! Look at www.tsmotor.com under "racing" Mazda 3 rotor that short block have i assembled. It has Japanese made intake and ML Wankeltrim ported exhaustIt,s balanced and has 9:7 cr rotors with atkins 2 mm apex seals but mostly stock parts.I think the owner Tommy will use a Emerald Ecu and a Australian made intake manifold. This is a FC real racing car and should be completed this summer and dyno tested on his rolling road/Lasse
That teal colored FC is absolutely incredible. I don't even know what I am looking at as far as the transmission goes??
Are the rear fenders fiberglass or metal?
I would love to build a race car. I can only afford to build one once. I don't have deep enough pockets to actually break things...
10-13-10, 02:06 PM
#89
Nice progress! I cant wait till I get serious with my project, your pictures are just making me jealous. I think Logan has stopped answering my PMs because he probably doesnt think Im serious since Ive been talking to him about it for over a year but haven't done anything yet haha. Early next year for me .
Either way, I bet you cant wait to finally get that thing on the road, its come a long way.
.Either way, I bet you cant wait to finally get that thing on the road, its come a long way.
10-21-10, 09:48 PM
#93
Nice progress! I cant wait till I get serious with my project, your pictures are just making me jealous. I think Logan has stopped answering my PMs because he probably doesnt think Im serious since Ive been talking to him about it for over a year but haven't done anything yet haha. Early next year for me .
Either way, I bet you cant wait to finally get that thing on the road, its come a long way.
.Either way, I bet you cant wait to finally get that thing on the road, its come a long way.
12-09-10, 08:29 AM
#94
Might have already been answered, but I have an interesting question for Logan and Chris about the build. What's going to be done about apex seal lubrication, premix or OMP? Also, what OMP would be used, s4, s5, FD or 20b?
From my understanding of the parts catalogs, the 13B Cosmo OMP is basically a S5T2 one with two of the output ports missing, and the 20b one is missing one port. Both only receive oil directly to the rotor housings, hence the reduced number of output ports.
As we all know the difference between S4 and S5 OMPs being the bolt hole locations and control systems, s4 being mechanical and s5+ electronic, wouldn't the simplest solution be to just make an adapter plate to use the S4 OMP and plug the unused output port? Then perhaps add on a rotary aviation OMP reservoir adapter so the apex seals always get a supply of nice, clean oil. Beyond that, some nice braided stainless steel lines for it would be a nice touch too.
When I get motivated later, I'll fab together a prototype to show you how it'll come together.
From my understanding of the parts catalogs, the 13B Cosmo OMP is basically a S5T2 one with two of the output ports missing, and the 20b one is missing one port. Both only receive oil directly to the rotor housings, hence the reduced number of output ports.
As we all know the difference between S4 and S5 OMPs being the bolt hole locations and control systems, s4 being mechanical and s5+ electronic, wouldn't the simplest solution be to just make an adapter plate to use the S4 OMP and plug the unused output port? Then perhaps add on a rotary aviation OMP reservoir adapter so the apex seals always get a supply of nice, clean oil. Beyond that, some nice braided stainless steel lines for it would be a nice touch too.
When I get motivated later, I'll fab together a prototype to show you how it'll come together.
12-09-10, 10:49 AM
#95
Might have already been answered, but I have an interesting question for Logan and Chris about the build. What's going to be done about apex seal lubrication, premix or OMP? Also, what OMP would be used, s4, s5, FD or 20b?
From my understanding of the parts catalogs, the 13B Cosmo OMP is basically a S5T2 one with two of the output ports missing, and the 20b one is missing one port. Both only receive oil directly to the rotor housings, hence the reduced number of output ports.
As we all know the difference between S4 and S5 OMPs being the bolt hole locations and control systems, s4 being mechanical and s5+ electronic, wouldn't the simplest solution be to just make an adapter plate to use the S4 OMP and plug the unused output port? Then perhaps add on a rotary aviation OMP reservoir adapter so the apex seals always get a supply of nice, clean oil. Beyond that, some nice braided stainless steel lines for it would be a nice touch too.
When I get motivated later, I'll fab together a prototype to show you how it'll come together.
From my understanding of the parts catalogs, the 13B Cosmo OMP is basically a S5T2 one with two of the output ports missing, and the 20b one is missing one port. Both only receive oil directly to the rotor housings, hence the reduced number of output ports.
As we all know the difference between S4 and S5 OMPs being the bolt hole locations and control systems, s4 being mechanical and s5+ electronic, wouldn't the simplest solution be to just make an adapter plate to use the S4 OMP and plug the unused output port? Then perhaps add on a rotary aviation OMP reservoir adapter so the apex seals always get a supply of nice, clean oil. Beyond that, some nice braided stainless steel lines for it would be a nice touch too.
When I get motivated later, I'll fab together a prototype to show you how it'll come together.
I bought a used S4 mechanical OMP for that reason for my 20b years ago. I haven't installed it. Just been running premix. The sad thing is that I didn't know that my Haltech would run the 20b's OMP. I disassembled that unit years back and can't remember how to put it back together.
12-09-10, 11:18 AM
#96
I bought a used S4 mechanical OMP for that reason for my 20b years ago. I haven't installed it. Just been running premix. The sad thing is that I didn't know that my Haltech would run the 20b's OMP. I disassembled that unit years back and can't remember how to put it back together.
. Got any suggestions
