1000 HP 20B Street Car Project
10-14-04, 04:53 PM
#331
Super Snuggles
Originally Posted by Auto Illusions
Well if it works i could use a set as well...
Interested in sharing the drawing?
Interested in sharing the drawing?
I haven't had anything made by emachineshop.com yet, so I'm going to start with something simpler/cheaper to test the water, so to speak. Estimated cost on the brackets above is $199/ea. in quantity of 1. Price goes down with higher quantities, of course.
My plan is to eventually sell a complete kit, and now that I have the Cobra IRS wrapped up, that's probably my next big project.
I have the same headlights and they fit like crap with the chinsy brackets they send with them!
I would try the knock off version if i had known then what i know now!
I would try the knock off version if i had known then what i know now!
10-14-04, 06:24 PM
#332
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Body parts are in but i had to get a $45 bond for what ever i don't know and hire a company to write the paper work before i can pick it up....
All in all it cost me almost $300 with taxes, duties, paper work and fees!
I will be picking them up tommorow at the local airport unless they decide to strip search the parts for whatever!
Wish me luck! (i never want to import anything this big again)
All in all it cost me almost $300 with taxes, duties, paper work and fees!
I will be picking them up tommorow at the local airport unless they decide to strip search the parts for whatever!
Wish me luck! (i never want to import anything this big again)
10-19-04, 07:12 PM
#336
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Got the parts in and all i can say is if you want to buy a hood, pay for an original because it fits as good as stock.......NO LIE!
The mazda speed wing is equally as impressive.....
I am ok with the fitment on the SexyStyle parts but you can tell they are of a cheaper quality than the RE-Amemiya and MazdaSpeed....
Although the build quality is fine, the fittment is a little off but nothing that can't be fixed..
I have pictures and just need to download them....(Tommorrow)
The mazda speed wing is equally as impressive.....
I am ok with the fitment on the SexyStyle parts but you can tell they are of a cheaper quality than the RE-Amemiya and MazdaSpeed....
Although the build quality is fine, the fittment is a little off but nothing that can't be fixed..
I have pictures and just need to download them....(Tommorrow)
10-20-04, 01:53 PM
#338
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Here is a picture of the ford 8.8 rear end...
I used the t-bird 8.8 IRS because it is stronger than the aluminum cobra diff housing!
The rear end is built with Ford Motorsport 4:30 cryo treated gears, Mark Williams billet bearing caps and yoke, Timken bearings, Eaton posi to fit 31 Spline half shafts with 800 pound posi springs and plate kit!
As soon as my engine cradle is completed i will be working on a full replacement Chromoly rear sub frame to hold the ford IRS Diff!
I used the t-bird 8.8 IRS because it is stronger than the aluminum cobra diff housing!
The rear end is built with Ford Motorsport 4:30 cryo treated gears, Mark Williams billet bearing caps and yoke, Timken bearings, Eaton posi to fit 31 Spline half shafts with 800 pound posi springs and plate kit!
As soon as my engine cradle is completed i will be working on a full replacement Chromoly rear sub frame to hold the ford IRS Diff!
10-20-04, 04:10 PM
#339
Super Snuggles
Originally Posted by Auto Illusions
I used the t-bird 8.8 IRS because it is stronger than the aluminum cobra diff housing!
As soon as my engine cradle is completed i will be working on a full replacement Chromoly rear sub frame to hold the ford IRS Diff!
10-20-04, 04:53 PM
#340
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Shop Tour
I gotta stop by your shop some time to check this thing out. I only live about 1.5 hours away in the slowly rusting away city of Johnstown :-) . I'll wait for the tram and tour guide to pick me up in the shop parking lot.
10-20-04, 07:42 PM
#341
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Originally Posted by jimlab
I've never heard of anyone breaking the front of an aluminum housing, but it's possible the cast iron housing is stronger. It's also significantly heavier.
Does that mean you don't want one of mine? Er, mine!
Does that mean you don't want one of mine? Er, mine!
10-22-04, 02:56 AM
#342
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Well, it is 3:30 am and i am ready to go home..... The sub frame is tacked together and in the car!
I still have to make some alignment tabs, a steering mount and the motor plates!
Hopefully tommorrow i can find the time to finish them and test fit the motor!
Here is a couple of pictures of the subframe for now! This is the first proto-type which i am going to sell really cheap when it is finished if any one is interested!
This one is all hand cut however I have drawn all of the pieces in Auto Cad so the next set will be laser cut!
I am considering making a few of these to sell as i mentioned earlier if any one is interested!
I still have to make some alignment tabs, a steering mount and the motor plates!
Hopefully tommorrow i can find the time to finish them and test fit the motor!
Here is a couple of pictures of the subframe for now! This is the first proto-type which i am going to sell really cheap when it is finished if any one is interested!
This one is all hand cut however I have drawn all of the pieces in Auto Cad so the next set will be laser cut!
I am considering making a few of these to sell as i mentioned earlier if any one is interested!
Last edited by Auto Illusions; 10-22-04 at 03:01 AM.
10-22-04, 03:34 AM
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I have decided to run a liquid to air intercooler with a 4" in and out and 8" diameter barrel style intercooler. I will run a full size front mount heat exchanger filling up the entire opening with twin oil coolers on each side to match! All from PWR-performance!
This set up will have less pressure drop, cooler air charge and give the ability to run a tank to pack with ice for drag racing!
An air to air intercooler is pretty much useless with out spraying the heck out of it for drag racing since it doesn't get any air until half track which doesn't start to take effect on cooling the air charge until the race is over!
I had planned on spraying the Intercooler with the NX intercooler spray kit but will be finding a better use for the extra 12 lb carbon fiber bottle!
Since i will no longer need an intercooler spray, i am going to use my extra bottle for a first stage nitrous system to help spool the rather large turbo!
I doubt i will use the second stage multi port nitrous kit but it will be installed just in case the HP figures are not as planned! (Also because it looks cool!)
This set up will have less pressure drop, cooler air charge and give the ability to run a tank to pack with ice for drag racing!
An air to air intercooler is pretty much useless with out spraying the heck out of it for drag racing since it doesn't get any air until half track which doesn't start to take effect on cooling the air charge until the race is over!
I had planned on spraying the Intercooler with the NX intercooler spray kit but will be finding a better use for the extra 12 lb carbon fiber bottle!
Since i will no longer need an intercooler spray, i am going to use my extra bottle for a first stage nitrous system to help spool the rather large turbo!
I doubt i will use the second stage multi port nitrous kit but it will be installed just in case the HP figures are not as planned! (Also because it looks cool!)
Last edited by Auto Illusions; 10-22-04 at 03:38 AM.
10-22-04, 11:44 AM
#345
Super Snuggles
Second question about subframe... are you adding tabs for confining the eccentric bolts for alignment?
Third and fourth questions about subframe... it looks like you recreated the stock sway bar mounts, unless those are sand blasted originals. Are you sure the sway bar will clear the bends in the lateral tubes (looks tight), and were you planning on boxing in the sway bar mounts to increase their strength? Just curious, because they're a well-known failure point and I would not have used the originals or used them as a model. I'm using billet aluminum mounts myself.
BTW, why do you end every sentence with an exclamation mark!
Third and fourth questions about subframe... it looks like you recreated the stock sway bar mounts, unless those are sand blasted originals. Are you sure the sway bar will clear the bends in the lateral tubes (looks tight), and were you planning on boxing in the sway bar mounts to increase their strength? Just curious, because they're a well-known failure point and I would not have used the originals or used them as a model. I'm using billet aluminum mounts myself.
BTW, why do you end every sentence with an exclamation mark!