20bdreams

(before anyone tells me that it has been discussed before, let me tell you that i have looked and looked and found info that in some way does not talk about the perticular set up im going for)ok i have a 13b 6port (84 gsl-se) to my understanding i have a series 3. but im trying to find info on bridge porting my engine and only find info on series1,2 then it skips to series4 turbo.............where the hell does my engine fall in to play.....is it the same exact 6port engine as the second gen N/A's or what. then i hear that you cant bridge port a 6port but find all this info on bridgeported series4 6port engines.....AAAAHHHHHH!!!!.....maybe i have my info wrong........but all i want is my 1984 13b 6port(gsl-se) engine bridgeported using the microtech ecu and the tweakit.net efi webber style throttle body......CAN THIS BE DONE....every one that has a BP either has a 12a with some type of carb or they have a turbo..........currently my engine is street ported using 1989 GTU(N/A) rotors, with a holley 600 and an RB dual sport exhaust. can i upgrade my port job to a bridge or even 1/2 bridge. i heard that with a good efi and ecu the BP isnt that bad to manage and is even streetable.............................plese excuse my ignorance but americans seem to have no love for older cars and if they deal with import cars they only want turbo cars or stupid *** hondas......yes turbo rotarys are the **** but i just love the n/a simplicity and sound.........HELP !!!!!!!

Drift-H8R

Info on bridge porting series 4 six ports applies directly to porting your series three six port. Any templates you buy for a NA FC will work just fine for your GSL-SE.

You already have a street port so all that's left to do is add the bridge.

You seem awfully frustrated. This is suposed to be fun man. chill out.

Just start spending money. applying time, and having patience. You'll be driving a standalone BP GSL-SE before you know it.

Midwest 7's

iTrader: (4)

your motor could easily be converted to 4 port.
when your doing your rebuild just swap your gslse irons with 12a irons.
4 ports are the **** if you want an fast na rotary.

Naegleria_Fowleri

4 port > 6 port when it comes to porting.

Swap the SE irons with the 12a irons and you are good to go.

Drift-H8R

Six and four ports can be bridged to the essentially the same effect.

If you where going for the biggest street port possible, there would be a slight advantage to switching to 12a Iron's.

Get Judge Ito templates for your six port and you'll be haulin' ***.

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

4 ports will flow more. Period. Very few people can port a 6-port properly.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Directfreak summed it up nicely. It is rare that a 2nd gen NA 6-port can hit 200hp at the wheels, even with FI and a standalone, Not that hard on a 13B 4-port. even with a carb.

Naegleria_Fowleri

That's exactly what I was basing my statement on too. How many NA second gens do you see making 200 horsepower at the wheels. I've not seen any, myself. I have seen plenty of 12a's bridgeported with over 200 though.

steve84GS TII

With the exception of the Renesis,the multiport 13B's are designed to be torquey and flexible,with a wide(and rather boring) powerband.Thats something the rotary really couldnt pull off with its early 4 port design and natual aspiration.
Thats the whole idea of the 5th and 6th ports and the very small primary ports,staged throttlebody and convoluted intake manifold.Think of it as rotary VTEC,because it works the same way.
Good lowend torque from small,high velocity primary ports.....secondaries stay shut.
Then plenty of breathing space from the multiple,high volume secondary/aux ports, for making topend power.

The computor and intake design handle the switching and timing of the ports,so that it all works in harmony and you never notice the step up in port volume/timing....hence the boring part.The turbo engines dont need the switching gear and aux ports so much, because the turbo force feeds the engine air,regardless of the intake design and number of ports.
Porting a 6 port is tough because because there is already so much port that exists beforehand.And the small primaries are small for a reason.Plus,if you disturb or alter the intake or ECU/control solenoids,then the switching system will be affected and you may actually lose power/torque.

Like the guys said,the 4 port engines.....70's 13B,all 12A, and turbo 13B......are the best for porting.Their primaries have plenty of meat to work with,and the secondaries are pretty big,with lots more room to improve.They may not have the healthy torque curve of the 6 port 13B,but most enthusiats prefer raw topend pull and a noticable powerband....over smooth torque and tractability.Auto manufacturers/engineers are usually obsessed with the latter only.
Mazdatrix and RB both bridgeport 4 port engines only.Ive never seen a bridge ported 6 port engine.Its kinda impossible since there are already two secondary ports on the end housings.Im fairly sure there isnt any room/meat for bridgeporting the center iron,which would be pretty pointless anyways.

20bdreams

damn guys THANKS SOOOOO MUCH!!!!! you dont understand how frustrated i was getting with my car. i was getting ready to give it up. i started "dreaming "with the 20b(hence my name) but came to reality when it comes to money, then i wanted the turboII, wich is more realistic and can be made super fast, then theres all the upgradding and individual parts i would need to buy just to produce happy smile making power. if went with either i would only be focusing my moneys on the engine but the car itself would be left back in its time.....so with a BP 13b with efi i figured that it would be the most fun and money efficiant but never imagined the trouble i would come across finding info on this set up. so yeah i was stressed but thanks for your expertise. not only that but i live in japan AND STILL CANT FIND **** ON THE (SA22C) they only seem to like the fc and up.....i thought japan would be the place to my rotary dreams but f^&k that......now......can any one hook me up with some really good 12a BP irons...

20bdreams

oh....i forgot to ask something...........anyone know if the tweakit.net throttle body set up is good, and if you where to build a EFI 13b BP how would you go about it. pull out all stops on this one, im trying to make the most power (possible) short of being track only............my car is in the states(florida) so they dont care bout inspectins.....everything from ignition set ups to fuel and tranny, go crazy with the ideas cause i do have spare change to play around with(but not too crazy cause if it where the case i would have gone with the 20b)

steve84GS TII

Most bridgeport guys go with carbs for simplicity.EFI is great,I preffer it myself,but the bridgeport's nature will probably require a good tuner to get the EFI happy/civil.
Bridgeports dont like to idle and they typically dont run well at all in the low/mid RPMs.....which is where most street driving is done.They kick *** in the topend,typically over 7000RPM,but life expectency is not so good.

Speaking of life expectancy,if you are going for broke with a bridgeport,then be prepared to have a useable powerband between 6000-9000+ RPM.That means you better spend the $$ to make the engine stay together at those speeds.Clearanced/light rotors,bearings,hardened gears,balancing,ect.....are required if you wanna sustain RPM's over 8000.If you just bridgeport a stock engine,dont expect it to last very long.
And of course,any rebuilt/built-up rotary will benefit from lots of new parts.The more used parts you retain(rotors,housings,ect),the quicker the engine will reach "non-rebuildable" status.Carbon seals (which are neccesary for a BP) are kinder to the housings when they fail,but since they do fail sooner,be prepared to do more teardowns in order to keep your wild,high HP non turbo engine going strong.

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

Pick the plates with the tallest ports.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

You might try PMing kenn chan, he's over there and doing major mods to his 1st gen, including a later engine and tubo install, along with a body kit.

Naegleria_Fowleri

I would also go as far as to say that you should buy a scatter plate shield for the clutch and everything like that. At such high rpms there is would be an insanely large amount of damage if any of those things failed and went flying apart as well. Remember, stock components are not good for long if you go past 8,000 rpms a lot (I don't even like going past 7 on my stock engine).

I wanted to go bridgeport on my 12a, but when I realized the vast amount of parts required to make one function semi-reliably I decided a big street port would be a much better option.