newbie w/ stupid question!
10-12-06, 08:52 PM
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newbie w/ stupid question!
I recently bought a 1984 gsl-se. I posted some questions about an oil leak. You all gave me great advice on figuring out where it was coming from and unfortunately, its the "bad" kind. Leaking from between the housings (galley rings??).
So, now for my stupid question. Is it possible to use a heat resistant sealant along the outside to seal where the gasket has failed?? I occationally deal with large autoclaves at my work. The produce a high heat/high pressure atmosphere. Sometimes joints fail or hairline cracks form and we use this stuff called resbond (link below) to seal them. Works great! If I get the seam nice and clean...and dry, do you think this would be a possibility? Much better than the $4000 rebuild I'm looking at. Any input would be great.
Thanks
Resbond http://news.thomasnet.com/fullstory/450926
So, now for my stupid question. Is it possible to use a heat resistant sealant along the outside to seal where the gasket has failed?? I occationally deal with large autoclaves at my work. The produce a high heat/high pressure atmosphere. Sometimes joints fail or hairline cracks form and we use this stuff called resbond (link below) to seal them. Works great! If I get the seam nice and clean...and dry, do you think this would be a possibility? Much better than the $4000 rebuild I'm looking at. Any input would be great.
Thanks
Resbond http://news.thomasnet.com/fullstory/450926
10-12-06, 09:10 PM
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Unfortunately, first off, no garage. Second, I am lacking in the proper tools. And third, who am I kidding...I don't put that much faith in my automotive knowledge lol. It would be a great project if I had a garage to take over!
10-12-06, 09:10 PM
#5
What. 4k for a rebuild. www.rotarywarehouse.com does stock rebuilds for $1,300 and trochoid does rebuilds for even cheaper + a streetport. You can try this spray leak thing. Heres a link. Try that too tho
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...pin+repair+kit
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...pin+repair+kit
10-12-06, 09:19 PM
#6
FB+FC=F-ME
Seen lots of attempt to seal that leak,non ever worked.
Thing is,its not a gasket thats leaking,its an o-ring.The ring seals just a very small area around the galley,and thats it.Thus,there is nothing outside the o-ring to hold the oil in.Because of this,the oil can work its way in any direction along the housings.....towards the top,bottom,inward to the water seal,or outward towards the open air.Plus,the tiny,miniscule gap between the iron and aluminum housings will vary according to engine temperature and metal expansion rates.
One cheap method that might slow the leak is to pull the tranny and snug up the tension bolts that hold the engine "sandwich" together.You should also consider steam cleaning the engine and making absolutely sure of the leak's origin.Its possible that its coming from a bad distributor seal,or another point along that portion of the engine.
A rebuild for your situation should be cheap.The engine runs well and shouldnt need much if any new parts since the only point of a teardown is to seal the leak.You should be looking at the cost of an engine seal kit,and labor.Engine rebuilds get pricey when steel seals are blown,engines are overheated and careless turbo boost ravages housings.My S5 block build up cost 4500 bucks,but included new rotors,housings and all new seals,plus porting and oil/water mods.New replacement parts and mods are the big $$.
A soft rebuild with used parts,from a rotary specialist, should be quite affordable.
Thing is,its not a gasket thats leaking,its an o-ring.The ring seals just a very small area around the galley,and thats it.Thus,there is nothing outside the o-ring to hold the oil in.Because of this,the oil can work its way in any direction along the housings.....towards the top,bottom,inward to the water seal,or outward towards the open air.Plus,the tiny,miniscule gap between the iron and aluminum housings will vary according to engine temperature and metal expansion rates.
One cheap method that might slow the leak is to pull the tranny and snug up the tension bolts that hold the engine "sandwich" together.You should also consider steam cleaning the engine and making absolutely sure of the leak's origin.Its possible that its coming from a bad distributor seal,or another point along that portion of the engine.
A rebuild for your situation should be cheap.The engine runs well and shouldnt need much if any new parts since the only point of a teardown is to seal the leak.You should be looking at the cost of an engine seal kit,and labor.Engine rebuilds get pricey when steel seals are blown,engines are overheated and careless turbo boost ravages housings.My S5 block build up cost 4500 bucks,but included new rotors,housings and all new seals,plus porting and oil/water mods.New replacement parts and mods are the big $$.
A soft rebuild with used parts,from a rotary specialist, should be quite affordable.
10-12-06, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by twinkletoes
What. 4k for a rebuild. www.rotarywarehouse.com does stock rebuilds for $1,300 and trochoid does rebuilds for even cheaper + a streetport. You can try this spray leak thing. Heres a link. Try that too tho
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...pin+repair+kit
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...pin+repair+kit
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10-12-06, 09:38 PM
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A rebuild for your situation should be cheap.The engine runs well and shouldnt need much if any new parts since the only point of a teardown is to seal the leak.You should be looking at the cost of an engine seal kit,and labor.Engine rebuilds get pricey when steel seals are blown,engines are overheated and careless turbo boost ravages housings.My S5 block build up cost 4500 bucks,but included new rotors,housings and all new seals,plus porting and oil/water mods.New replacement parts and mods are the big $$.
A soft rebuild with used parts,from a rotary specialist, should be quite affordable.[/QUOTE]
I dig this forum!! Straight answers! The mechanic I talked to seemed to think I would need new rotor housings and cast iron plates. I thought I saw $$ flashing in his eyes. Guess I was right.
By the way the engine does run fine, sounds good and is smooth. Hopefully I'll get lucky and not need many replacement parts.
A soft rebuild with used parts,from a rotary specialist, should be quite affordable.[/QUOTE]
I dig this forum!! Straight answers! The mechanic I talked to seemed to think I would need new rotor housings and cast iron plates. I thought I saw $$ flashing in his eyes. Guess I was right.
By the way the engine does run fine, sounds good and is smooth. Hopefully I'll get lucky and not need many replacement parts.
10-12-06, 10:26 PM
#9
FB+FC=F-ME
Almost everything that applies to rebuilding a piston engine,DOES NOT apply to the rotary.
Used parts can be reused,housings can be put back without grinding or lapping.Steel seals can be reused if within tolerence.The real trick to building rotaries is measuring and inspecting.....and thats why its best to rely on a rotary specific builder with experience.Its actually recommended to re-use main bearings if they arent destroyed!!What other engine can say that!?
It takes meticulous inspection and near methodic organization in order to do it right.Every little seal and spring has to cleaned,measured and put back in its EXACT place for a rebuild to be proper.That said,a well running engine that passes inspection, can be put back together with nearly all its original parts,with only soft seals needing to be changed out.
This makes rotary rebuilding seem to be long and tedious,but considering how simple and relatively long wearing the rotary is,its not that hard....5 housings,two working parts....thats all there is.No heads,cams,few bearings and no valvetrain.
Used parts can be reused,housings can be put back without grinding or lapping.Steel seals can be reused if within tolerence.The real trick to building rotaries is measuring and inspecting.....and thats why its best to rely on a rotary specific builder with experience.Its actually recommended to re-use main bearings if they arent destroyed!!What other engine can say that!?
It takes meticulous inspection and near methodic organization in order to do it right.Every little seal and spring has to cleaned,measured and put back in its EXACT place for a rebuild to be proper.That said,a well running engine that passes inspection, can be put back together with nearly all its original parts,with only soft seals needing to be changed out.
This makes rotary rebuilding seem to be long and tedious,but considering how simple and relatively long wearing the rotary is,its not that hard....5 housings,two working parts....thats all there is.No heads,cams,few bearings and no valvetrain.
Last edited by steve84GS TII; 10-12-06 at 10:29 PM.
10-12-06, 10:49 PM
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Good info. Steve, thanks.
So, in reality, would it be feasible to have the engine pulled, soft rebuild, and back in and running for < 2K? Count me in!! Seems like there has to be a good (honest) rotary mechanic here in CO. I'll keep looking and post what I find.
So, in reality, would it be feasible to have the engine pulled, soft rebuild, and back in and running for < 2K? Count me in!! Seems like there has to be a good (honest) rotary mechanic here in CO. I'll keep looking and post what I find.
10-12-06, 11:31 PM
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That would rock! I would need to be more comforable that it would make it 600+ miles though. With my luck it would break down in Kansas....yikes! (just kidding KS folks!) Generous offer though, thanks. St. Joe anywhere near west plains??
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