what does the computer contol? (with carb)
#4
Super Newbie
Originally posted by peejay
I thought it also controlled the tach and fuel pump... because when the trailing ignitor goes bad, the tach and fuel pump quit working.
I thought it also controlled the tach and fuel pump... because when the trailing ignitor goes bad, the tach and fuel pump quit working.
#5
if you remove the computer, would it be just like removing the rats nest, ,without all the re-routing of vacuume hoses? or has anyone tried this yet.. pg.264 haynes
Last edited by DONNA; 01-23-02 at 06:36 AM.
#6
Super Newbie
Originally posted by DONNA
if you remove the computer, would it be just like removing the rats nest, ,without all the re-routing of vacuume hoses? or has anyone tried this yet.. pg.264 haynes
if you remove the computer, would it be just like removing the rats nest, ,without all the re-routing of vacuume hoses? or has anyone tried this yet.. pg.264 haynes
#7
Old [Sch|F]ool
Argh... OK question since I don't have a manual within 140 miles of here... the shutter valve, is it 100% vacuum controlled or is there some electrickery at work too? 'Cos I think it's intermittently going bad... the car will idle kinda lumpy and then it'll idle on one rotor at about 500rpm, and blip the throttle and the revs will come back up and it'll idle somewhat decently for a few more seconds and then drop down on one rotor again. Also it always idles on one rotor for a few seconds when coming to a stop and then recovers.
I think I have at least two problems... shutter valve faulty, vacuum booster faulty (idle gets worse if you hold the brake down, sometimes), and i probably have other vacuum leaks but "first things first".
I think I have at least two problems... shutter valve faulty, vacuum booster faulty (idle gets worse if you hold the brake down, sometimes), and i probably have other vacuum leaks but "first things first".
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#8
Super Newbie
Originally posted by peejay
Argh... OK question since I don't have a manual within 140 miles of here... the shutter valve, is it 100% vacuum controlled or is there some electrickery at work too? 'Cos I think it's intermittently going bad... the car will idle kinda lumpy and then it'll idle on one rotor at about 500rpm, and blip the throttle and the revs will come back up and it'll idle somewhat decently for a few more seconds and then drop down on one rotor again. Also it always idles on one rotor for a few seconds when coming to a stop and then recovers.
I think I have at least two problems... shutter valve faulty, vacuum booster faulty (idle gets worse if you hold the brake down, sometimes), and i probably have other vacuum leaks but "first things first".
Argh... OK question since I don't have a manual within 140 miles of here... the shutter valve, is it 100% vacuum controlled or is there some electrickery at work too? 'Cos I think it's intermittently going bad... the car will idle kinda lumpy and then it'll idle on one rotor at about 500rpm, and blip the throttle and the revs will come back up and it'll idle somewhat decently for a few more seconds and then drop down on one rotor again. Also it always idles on one rotor for a few seconds when coming to a stop and then recovers.
I think I have at least two problems... shutter valve faulty, vacuum booster faulty (idle gets worse if you hold the brake down, sometimes), and i probably have other vacuum leaks but "first things first".
#9
Are you Nucking Futs?
Join Date: May 2001
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THe shutter solenoid valve sends the vacuum signal to the shutter valve on coastdown or deceleration (or it could be it sends it untill deceleration). It is the one with the yellow sticker and connection. or the third from the firewall (on the 83 model). The computer activates the solenoid and it in turn gets its signal from the tps I believe.
Hope that helps
Hope that helps
#10
Old [Sch|F]ool
I think I tried unplugging the yellow connector already, it didn't make a difference and you could still hear the shutter valve working... at least I think it's the shutter valve, when you rev it up and let off you hear a loud sucking/whooshing sound for a second or two. I'll check again. (Man I wish I had my Mityvac, that makes testing these things so much easier!)
BTW - I did find thw wiring diagrams - according to the one I'm looking at, the ECU controls the ground for the fuel pump relay. (black/yellow wire going into ECU) Power for the relay comes from the Engine fuse which is only hot with the ignition in Start or Run.
BTW - I did find thw wiring diagrams - according to the one I'm looking at, the ECU controls the ground for the fuel pump relay. (black/yellow wire going into ECU) Power for the relay comes from the Engine fuse which is only hot with the ignition in Start or Run.
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