My 5th and 6th ports are sticking. I can turn them a little using pliers. Should I shoot some oil in there and work them loose?

 

how bout the actuator rods on the outside mine were rusted try some mmo marvel mystery oil

 

if the rod is stuck... you'll need a different lower intake manifold if you want the auxiliary ports working right... my right shaft closest to the airpump was stuck and would not rotate... luckily i found another....

srub it clean first... petroleum jelly(vasceline) is pretty good... or wet it with nut looser thingy spray(you can buy at autozone for $3.99)... make sure the hose that provides the pressure to the actuators is secure and tight... so no exhaust can leak...

 

Step 1) Take off the aux port actuators (two 10mm screws).

Step 2) Slide them off the rods

Step 3) Spray PB Blaster ALLL OVER EVERYTHING until it is all clean and moves freely. Dont take out the 5th/6th port sleeve things, just spray into them and move them around, and stuff.

Step 4) seal it all back up

 

Hey, I think I'll try that on mine, too. I think mine are actuating (I can see them open some when I rev'er up above 5k for a moment) but they may not be opening fully. Sometimes I have a little power loss above 6k, sometimes not.

 

What is THE best way to tell if your ports arent opening... other than the power loss at high RPM?

 

I beat the **** out of my port rods with a hammer...they don't work but they're open now...unless i broke them *shrug*

 

To get my ports to work I took my whole intake manifold off and cleaned it out. It had carbon everywhere. I took the sleeves out also (they to were loaded in carbon) and cleaned them off with a dremel. I lubbed the sleeves with MMO and put them in. I put new gaskets on everything and reassembled the intake.
I then made an acv block-off plate (which fixed my idle)
I made my ports open mechanically by using the air pump and a few parts found at Lowes. (I can now decide at what rpm they open)

 

You guys really need to do a search... we've discussed this a lot.


If you wanna tell if your 5 and 6 ports are working, get some grease and put in on the actuating rods. Take the car for a spin reving it above 3800 and then come back and pop the hood and see if the grease is moved. It also helps lubricate the rods too. Use a thick grease, something like bearing grease will work.

 

For some reason nobody listens to what i say when they ask what the best way to tell is.


The best way to tell is to use an old mountain biker's trick for determining the damping on the shock by monitoring how much travel you are using.

Take a zip tie (2 in this case), and zip tie them snugly around each actuator rod. Snug enough as so when the ports open, it pushes them up and leaves them (the zip ties) up on the rod.

Do it to both rods. Go drive the car hard. Stop, look at the zip ties. If they are at the top, they open fine. If they arent, have fun trying to get them to work.

~Geoff

 

I've removed the aux port actuators and unseized them.

Now I cannot rotate the sleeves easily. I have to use pliers and they will only move a little.

Since this may be a carbon build up problem, I'll have to use some elbow grease to clean them. When I remove the two phillips screws will they come out?

 

My understanding is that the rods are connected to the sleeves, so they won't come out when you take out the screws. You have to remove the manifold to get to them. An experienced mech can do it in a few hours, personally I wouldn't begin to putz with it, my car would never run again. If you do do it (or get someone else to) go ahead and get new sleeve inserts from pineapple racing (www.pineappleracing.com) as they will improve the air flow thru the sleeves.
I have mine wired open. I find also, that I can move them easily when the engine is cold, if engine is hot they are MUCH harder to move..metal expansion, I guess.
Good Luck!
There is a good step-by-step guide in the the 2nd gen forum on cleaning them. Do search there.

 

It appears from the discussion that I may have a carbon build up problem. The screws holding the rods are seized and removing them to spray the sleeves with anything will not work anyways. Sso I'll take the dynamic chamber and the intake manifold off and take a looksy.

I'm not concerned about getting in over my head since the car won't be on the road until next summer. With time on my side I can work slowly and deliberately.

 

Great another 6 port dilemma!
Remove the entire intake manifold (upper and lower)Clean it out thoroughly with carb cleaner and brushes ...pull out the sleeves and do the same then reassemble using new gaskets if necessary...youll be glad you did.

 

Read my website below.

Right on!

 

This is my second time on your sight brownmound. This time though, I'm taking a careful look at what you've done and you are now bookmarked. A-1 job all the way!

I didn't think that you could get aluminum sand blasted...

Thanks

 

thanks dude.

 

Good tip, G. Simple yet insightful

 

I found that the hardest part of taking the manifold off is removing the old gaskets. They remove best after soaking in kerosene and using many razor blades.

 

Can small diameter silicone hoses be used to replace the oil metering hoses? Or is this another 'dealer only' item?