1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Aux Ports - Unsticking Them

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Old 04-03-05, 02:08 PM
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Rockn' The Galant

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Aux Ports - Unsticking Them

Alright,

From what I've read the rods should move down freely when the engines off, mine is not doing so at all so how do I unstick them without taking apart half the engine?

I tried WD40 and that didn’t work, it did loosen it a bit though.

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Old 04-03-05, 03:02 PM
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I vaugly remember asking this in the 2nd gen section... basically they told me you really ::need:: to take the lower intake off to get to them to function perfectly again... not positive, but most of the guys also recomend that if you are going to do this, to get the pineapple racing sleeves. just a thought.
Old 04-03-05, 03:15 PM
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the pineapple sleeves flow way better, cheap too i think.? $50 plus core.
Old 04-03-05, 04:14 PM
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i just hit mine with a hammer until they moved easily. they still get stuck in the position that they are left in, but a tap of a hammer and they move again. i prefer leaving them open. the 2nd gear wheel isn't as massive but it seems to have much better pickup at higher rpms. and seriously who needs low end torque when you are racing (autox, track) when you keep it at 6k in the powerband. i find it still pulls out of turns hard
Old 04-03-05, 04:28 PM
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I had one stuck pretty good, put some vice grips on it and wiggled it back an forth for about 15 minutes, try not to bend them. its took awhile, but it did work again.
your best bet is to remove the intake, its a bit of a pain, but the cleaning will last alot longer.
Old 04-03-05, 11:25 PM
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I worked on an SE last summer that had 240k on the original motor,(one owner), and I swear the 6th ports had quit working in the 1st 75k. It took a week of soaking in MMO and atf before we could loosen the tubes without tearing them up, and we had the intake and exhaust off, pouring fluids in everywhere we could.

WD-40 ain't gonna cut it, you need mmo or atf, and it needs to be able to get to the tubes, take the intake off.

Once you get them out, you need to clean them and the bore where they fit in the engine. Be very careful doing this, you do not want chunks of carbon falling into the motor.

While you're in there, replace any vacuume and fuel lines as needed. If you don't want to do it again, replace all of them. This is also a good time to send out your injectors for cleaning.
Old 04-04-05, 03:32 AM
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unbolt the damn actuators and unseize the shaft. Tap with a hammer and you might need to make the gaskets for them. shouldn't take more than an hour. 1.5 hours at the most.
Old 04-04-05, 04:09 AM
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i've rebuilt and taken apart two 6pi and all four sleeves were stuck and not moving. One only had 115k, and the other had ~150k. They were both bitches to get out, and yes you have to remove the lower intake manifold. I reccomend everyone with an se to make sure your 5&6 ports are functioning properly, i was shocked that both engines had useless sleeves.

As for the pineapple sleeves, from what i heard they have not been flow tested and gains are probably so incredibly minimal that its a waste of $50, but again, thats just what i've heard.
Old 04-04-05, 07:49 AM
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Rockn' The Galant

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Look's like I'll just be paying jOse for this one, it's my DD and don't have time to mess with seized stuff.
Old 04-04-05, 07:55 AM
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when i removed my sleeves before i put my weber on they slid out with great ease
if u cant get em out try some pb blaster
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