I've removed the upper intake manifold and I am replacing it with a Dellorto DHLA 48. At this point, I'm trying to simplify the rats nest of vacuum lines. I've obviously deleted all of emissions control, but I'm trying to determine what is important to keep.



Essentially, I'm trying to eliminate any vacuum system/line that has to do with emissions control or the original EFI operation, and retain any vacuum system that runs auxiliary systems like A/C and power steering. It's so confusing

 

ok well i think you can just pull everything as an assembly (or two assemblies).

the relief, switching solenoid and vacuum switch are for the ACV, so they can go.

the vacuum control solenoid controls when the distributor vacuum advances see vacuum.
the pressure control solenoid does the same for the fuel pressure regulator, and the
vent/vac solenoid runs the BAC valve, so all three can be removed as one unit.

this leaves you with the purge valve, which is part of the PCV system. it should go to the air cleaner, or catch can or something.

then the metering oil nozzles, that hose should be hooked up like the RB instructions say to, and you're done.

 

Ok I've got it mostly worked out. This step in the RB instructions is confusing me still:

Someone care to clarify that?

 

I cannot tell if the instructions are instructing me to keep the purge valve and just connect it to the air cleaner assembly (lol don't have one yet) on the carb or remove the purge valve all together and just connect the filler neck to the air cleaner. If I just run velocity stacks with socks over them, where can I vent this purge valve/pcv thing?

Can I simply install a breather on the oil filler neck? Would that accomplish the same goal?

 

Ok I thought I'd make some little diagrams to clarify the issues/questions I'm having:

First diagram is in reference to this instruction from RB

The line from the 'rear of the car' is what I've highlighted in red. The 'vent hose' is what I've highlighted in green. Do I keep the purge valve in place and route the blue line to the carb? If so, what do I do with the yellow line that extended down into the rats nest originally?


Second question, in reference to this instruction:

Do I totally remove the hose highlighted in red and just attach the one highlighted in blue to it's tube? I think that's what the instructions are telling me, and it makes sense as there is no upper intake manifold for coolant to pass through, but I'm not 100%.


And lastly:

Which connector is the +12v lead? Which quick disconnect do I connect to where? This one has me pretty lost lol. Do I disconnect green and attach it directly to to the alternator? I don't think Orange, Magenta, Blue and Red are related, but I don't want to rule them out.

Is the +12v lead the screw fitting highlighted in puke green just below the neon green?

edit: Figured the last one out. In my situation, the quick disconnect was still not long enough without the extension, however the lead was. So #3 is solved. Also solved the coolant one. Only one remaining is the PCV/Surge valve.

 

ok in the first pic. the red hose stays where it is, and the green hose goes to the air cleaner.

second pic, i think you're right. just run the blue hose to the nipple in the rear iron, making sure it can't get stuck in the throttle linkage

third pic, unplug the green connector, plug it into the rear of the alternator. then there is a 10mm attached to the black plastic thing that's now floating, attach this to where the bright green connector is

 

Ok, need some help identifying a part on the LIM. I've searched and searched and can't figure it out:



The stud and vacuum nipple are part of some sort of gizmo that attaches to the LIM. What is it, and what does it do? I can't find the part on mazdatrix' extensive engine parts listing and I can't find a labled picture of the LIM (I know there is one out there!). I'm guessing I'm not supposed to block it off because I can't find any block off plates for it. :p

 

Anyone?

 

That's to supply atmospheric air for the little plastic injector diffusers. Go ahead and cap them off.

 

just kinda courious but is there a reason your changing to a side draft carb? is the motor stock port?

 

Because the stock EFI is compromised, very early technology, and sucks ***. I've spent around $600 total for everything I need for a carb swap. It would cost that much alone for decent injectors for a custom EFI setup...

 

Thanks for the explanation! I was wondering why myself and have a 84 SE with injection issues. I'm trying to keep it though. Love the crisp response and feel of efi.