derSchwamm

iTrader: (1)

I went in for an alignment and the shop couldn't do it because the tie rods were too loose. It looks like the bolt coming out of the ball joint on each tie rod is loose in the spindles and center links. On other cars I am used to tie rods being a snug fit but on this rx7 the bolt on the tie rod is smaller than I'd expect, resulting in some looseness when it isn't torqued down a whole lot. Is this correct, or do I have the wrong tie rods?

I replaced the inner and outer tie rods a while back, and they're identical to what I pulled off, which were also a little loose.

I'm going to try to get an alignment again tomorrow after I tightened everything, unless of course I need to replace these parts. Thanks

j_tso

iTrader: (2)

Is the ball joint loose in its socket? It's worn out if it is.

The threaded end should not be loose in the knuckle or center link. Torque setting for the nut is 30 ft/lb.

derSchwamm

iTrader: (1)

The ball joint is tight. My concern is that the bolt does not fit snuggly in the center link or spindle. If I slide the bolt into one of these holes, I can wiggle it around because the bolt is smaller than the hole. Tightening the nut to spec does seem to keep it tight, but I'm concerned about how long that will last if the bolt itself has room to move. Maybe the bolt is tapered a lot and it's larger at the base?

On my protege, I usually have to pop the tie rod ends in and out with a rubber mallet because the bolt is so tight in the spindle. The rx7 couldn't be further from that.

The threaded end if not loose now that I have torqued it correctly, but I am still concerned that it will come loose or that I have the wrong part.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

You should take a look at those bolts. Normally they are a tapered fit, so the tierod when first
put on doesn't up into the spindle . It has to be forced onto the taper by torqueing the nuts.

You either have very worn spindles and center links or someone drilled them out or maybe theres
a difference in SA vs FB or series 3 vs series 1 or 2 in the size of the tapered bolt on
the tierods.

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

pix/video. let us see what ur seeing. never experienced what ur describing.

Freeskier7791

They are definitely tapered, something is seriously worn

derSchwamm

iTrader: (1)

I took one shaky video last night before I re-torqued all the bolts (sorry for the quality). You can see the tie rod bolt is loose inside the spindle (i.e. it can move from side to side in the hub hole). It's entirely possible that the bolt thickens underneath the rubber boot, because it did feel snug once I got everything torqued down. Before that, only the cotter pins were holding the nuts on – they were completely loose because I didn't follow the torque specs the first time.

I posted here to make sure that I don't have the wrong tie rods – the the GSL-SE didn't have different ones or something.

Video:

TimWilbers

iTrader: (1)

It looks to me that the tie-end bolt is snug in the steering knuckle. They look to be moving together but the angle of the steering knuckle seems to be changing with the angle of the tie-end bolt.

It this were me, I would take the nut back off. Then check the tie-end spindle-bolt. It should be able to tilt in all directions, but it should not be able to slide side-to-slide relative to the tie-end rod. If it feels loose, then it needs to be replaced.

Then check the steering knuckle bolts for proper torque. That twisting should not occur just because the wheel was slightly turned.

And the clunk is all wrong. Without being able to grab the wheel side-to-side, and top-&-bottom, I would suspect lower control arm ball joints.

Are you turning the wheel, then moving the wheel outward relative to your hand?

Any which way, I would not take it out on the road at speed.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Its so dark it hard to see but to me it looks like the tierod bolt is not seated all the way onto the
spindle hole. When on right, the boot is not that long and big, it get squished down to about
1/3 inch or so. Hard to describe but I think you just don't have it pulled down tight enough.

derSchwamm

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the help everyone, but it turns out it was all a problem of not having the bolts torqued down anywhere near enough. On my other car the torque specs are much lower, but when I got the car off the ground this last time I realized the only thing holding the nuts on were the cotter pins. I torqued everything down to spec and the bolts are now snug. I guess the bolt is more tapered than I realized but the bottom is definitely thick enough to sit snugly in the holes. The steering is MUCH better and I was able to get the car aligned.

Freeskier7791

glad you got it fixed

TimWilbers

iTrader: (1)

To derSchwamm:

If you have not already done so, it would be to your advantage to download the factory service manual for your year.

Directions and torque specs are included.

Follow the link in the 3rd post from the top in this forum.