Thermal Pellets
12-23-02, 04:39 AM
#1
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Thermal Pellets
Does any one here use them?
Whats the benefit besides letting the oil pressure stay the same all times for both rotors,is this needed,recommended for a 12A street port?
Whats the benefit besides letting the oil pressure stay the same all times for both rotors,is this needed,recommended for a 12A street port?
12-23-02, 04:44 AM
#2
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
you don't need them on a 12a..... they are used on 86 and up models..... the original thermostat assy. went bad causing premature failure of the oil o-rings due to improper oiling.... 12a's don't have them!
12-23-02, 04:56 AM
#3
Old [Sch|F]ool
Yeah, the thermal pellet was Mazda's way of warming the oil up faster after they discovered that the "beehive" oil cooler/heater basically sucked and cooked the oil, causing oil O-ring leakage on an unprecedented scale.
'85-earlier engines don't have 'em! I've seen some places recommend using '85-earlier e-shafts in later engines to eliminate the thermal pellet.
'85-earlier engines don't have 'em! I've seen some places recommend using '85-earlier e-shafts in later engines to eliminate the thermal pellet.
12-23-02, 01:08 PM
#6
Originally posted by peejay
'85-earlier engines don't have 'em! I've seen some places recommend using '85-earlier e-shafts in later engines to eliminate the thermal pellet.
'85-earlier engines don't have 'em! I've seen some places recommend using '85-earlier e-shafts in later engines to eliminate the thermal pellet.
Easier and cheaper than trying to find an old e-shaft.
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12-23-02, 02:48 PM
#8
Old [Sch|F]ool
Originally posted by 85RX7GS
What if one has a 2nd gen oil cooler on a 12A? Any reason to worry?
What if one has a 2nd gen oil cooler on a 12A? Any reason to worry?
12-23-02, 02:52 PM
#9
Originally posted by MIKE-P-28
I have one in my 85 cosmo powered POS. I like the rotor bearing to have oil at all times
I have one in my 85 cosmo powered POS. I like the rotor bearing to have oil at all times
Or are you thinking by the oil pump, to have a higher oil pressure setting?
12-23-02, 05:00 PM
#10
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I got one for my T2 motor. Its not plastic it aluminum, and its made to the legnth of the original plug when the plunger is withdrawn all the way in, allowing oil to constantly go to the rotors reguardless of engine or oil temp. The original can fail and never open, meaning that oil will never get to the rotors. Not a good thing. I think its better to have oil constantly lube and cool the rotors.
Atkins rotary sells them cheaper than Mazdatrix, but if you get it from atkins, buy something else to go in the box cause they charge you $7.50 for shipping weather they send you the thermal pellet, a little baggy with the corner seal springs, or a whole engine gasket kit. I ordered the 93-95 corner seal springs and it was $7.50 for shipping. The springs come in a bag the size of a $20 sack of weed.
Atkins rotary sells them cheaper than Mazdatrix, but if you get it from atkins, buy something else to go in the box cause they charge you $7.50 for shipping weather they send you the thermal pellet, a little baggy with the corner seal springs, or a whole engine gasket kit. I ordered the 93-95 corner seal springs and it was $7.50 for shipping. The springs come in a bag the size of a $20 sack of weed.
12-23-02, 06:38 PM
#11
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Originally posted by peejay
The thermal pellet has nothing to do with the oil cooler, in this case. 2nd-gen oil coolers still have thermostats in them. The thermal pellet cuts oil flow to the rotors when the engine is cold, to force the engine to warm up faster. Faster warmup is all-important with modern emissions, because the warmup cycle is the only place left where we can clean the exhaust.
The thermal pellet has nothing to do with the oil cooler, in this case. 2nd-gen oil coolers still have thermostats in them. The thermal pellet cuts oil flow to the rotors when the engine is cold, to force the engine to warm up faster. Faster warmup is all-important with modern emissions, because the warmup cycle is the only place left where we can clean the exhaust.
The guy I talked with about this must not have had any clue as to what he was talking about.
12-26-02, 02:17 PM
#12
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Originally posted by Project84
Atkins rotary sells them cheaper than Mazdatrix, but if you get it from atkins, buy something else to go in the box cause they charge you $7.50 for shipping weather they send you the thermal pellet, a little baggy with the corner seal springs, or a whole engine gasket kit. I ordered the 93-95 corner seal springs and it was $7.50 for shipping. The springs come in a bag the size of a $20 sack of weed.
Atkins rotary sells them cheaper than Mazdatrix, but if you get it from atkins, buy something else to go in the box cause they charge you $7.50 for shipping weather they send you the thermal pellet, a little baggy with the corner seal springs, or a whole engine gasket kit. I ordered the 93-95 corner seal springs and it was $7.50 for shipping. The springs come in a bag the size of a $20 sack of weed.
Thats because Mazdatrix buys them from Atkins. And a little note: if you don't want to spend the $7.50 for shipping, you can always tell them that you want to have your order sent via USPS regular mail. It should only run you about $4. You can do that for most small orders. Just that Kathy doesn't like anyone to know.
12-26-02, 08:26 PM
#13
Originally posted by Directfreak
How so? Did you take your engine apart? Those pellets are in the E-shaft.
Or are you thinking by the oil pump, to have a higher oil pressure setting?
How so? Did you take your engine apart? Those pellets are in the E-shaft.
Or are you thinking by the oil pump, to have a higher oil pressure setting?
12-26-02, 10:56 PM
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Originally posted by AdrenalifeRX7
it seems that the 13B has only become more and more advanced yet so much more ineffcient and less durable. i'm sticking with old skool
it seems that the 13B has only become more and more advanced yet so much more ineffcient and less durable. i'm sticking with old skool
12-27-02, 09:55 AM
#16
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Ok,Sorry for the late *** response but yeah,I emailed Atkins and yes,
It is NOT for the 12As,
Atkins makes them and they are NOT plastic but aluminum.
And Yes you take out the big nut on the front e shaft pulley set up.
No the thermal pellet has nothing to do with the oil cooling system,
Thanks,
It is NOT for the 12As,
Atkins makes them and they are NOT plastic but aluminum.
And Yes you take out the big nut on the front e shaft pulley set up.
No the thermal pellet has nothing to do with the oil cooling system,
Thanks,
12-27-02, 09:59 AM
#17
Originally posted by AdrenalifeRX7
it seems that the 13B has only become more and more advanced yet so much more ineffcient and less durable. i'm sticking with old skool
it seems that the 13B has only become more and more advanced yet so much more ineffcient and less durable. i'm sticking with old skool
See sig , I got one in my FB.
Last edited by MIKE-P-28; 12-27-02 at 10:02 AM.
12-27-02, 10:04 AM
#18
Originally posted by vteckiller88
Thats because Mazdatrix buys them from Atkins. And a little note: if you don't want to spend the $7.50 for shipping, you can always tell them that you want to have your order sent via USPS regular mail. It should only run you about $4. You can do that for most small orders. Just that Kathy doesn't like anyone to know.
Thats because Mazdatrix buys them from Atkins. And a little note: if you don't want to spend the $7.50 for shipping, you can always tell them that you want to have your order sent via USPS regular mail. It should only run you about $4. You can do that for most small orders. Just that Kathy doesn't like anyone to know.
12-27-02, 12:34 PM
#19
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The thermal pellet has nothing to do with the oil cooler, in this case. 2nd-gen oil coolers still have thermostats in them. The thermal pellet cuts oil flow to the rotors when the engine is cold, to force the engine to warm up faster. Faster warmup is all-important with modern emissions, because the warmup cycle is the only place left where we can clean the exhaust.
Well the way I understand this, is the thermal pellet design is really good despite its drawbacks for cold climate engines that are driven short distances. Think about it, with the pre 86 engines fitted with the oil-air cooler it takes longer to heat the oil up to proper operating temp to boil off the moisture and gas that gets into the oil during start up. The water-oil cooler probably premotes more heating of the oil during the warm up cycle since its getting heated by the warming coolant until operating temp is reached, which probably makes it a good choice for a light driven 1st gen in cold climates, but anything more would nessessate the air-oil cooler.
As for emissions, getting operating temp quickly is critical for EPA standards since lowest emissions are achieved operating around or above 185 to 195F in most engines.
12-27-02, 06:56 PM
#20
Old [Sch|F]ool
Originally posted by WackyRotary
Well the way I understand this, is the thermal pellet design is really good despite its drawbacks for cold climate engines that are driven short distances.
Well the way I understand this, is the thermal pellet design is really good despite its drawbacks for cold climate engines that are driven short distances.
Frankly if you have to drive short distances, get a boinger powered car and save your rotary powered cars for long trips. Mid 80's FWD Corollas are perfect for this because they're damn near indestructible, they don't seem to rust even, and they're boring enough that you'll never forget why you have a Mazda. The Chevy Nova badged ones are identical but usually costs 25-50% less.
12-27-02, 07:23 PM
#21
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keep in mind how FC's love to flood if they're driven short distances and shut off before 100% completely warmed up due to a bug in the ECU.
I am not aware of this problem. I do own a N/A FC. I never had any problem with flooding except when I once started it and adroptly accidentily popped the clutch about 2 seconds later and killed. Then went to start it and it had no compression due to all the raw gas in it from the additional added during the first few seconds. A simple 10second unflood procedure later and it started right up.
But ANY other time I started it and ran it for more then 10 seconds(which is far from being even starting to warm up) and shut it off, it never flooded, ever. Even if 10F outside. I know the flooding problems most FC people experience are related to leaky injectors or old engine seals/housings resulting in compression loss which is not exactly the ECU's fault.
12-27-02, 08:13 PM
#22
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Originally posted by peejay
Mid 80's FWD Corollas are perfect for this because they're damn near indestructible, they don't seem to rust even....
Mid 80's FWD Corollas are perfect for this because they're damn near indestructible, they don't seem to rust even....
12-28-02, 01:01 PM
#24
Old [Sch|F]ool
My mom's '93 Corolla met an Audi at 15mph. There was nothing left of the car ahead of the firewall. Just smeared right off.
No injuries due to the accident, although she suffered burns and a dislocated jaw from the federally-mandated steering wheel grenade
No injuries due to the accident, although she suffered burns and a dislocated jaw from the federally-mandated steering wheel grenade
12-28-02, 01:08 PM
#25
Originally posted by peejay
My mom's '93 Corolla met an Audi at 15mph. There was nothing left of the car ahead of the firewall. Just smeared right off.
No injuries due to the accident, although she suffered burns and a dislocated jaw from the federally-mandated steering wheel grenade
My mom's '93 Corolla met an Audi at 15mph. There was nothing left of the car ahead of the firewall. Just smeared right off.
No injuries due to the accident, although she suffered burns and a dislocated jaw from the federally-mandated steering wheel grenade
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