Thermal Pellets
 

Does any one here use them?

Whats the benefit besides letting the oil pressure stay the same all times for both rotors,is this needed,recommended for a 12A street port?

you don't need them on a 12a..... they are used on 86 and up models..... the original thermostat assy. went bad causing premature failure of the oil o-rings due to improper oiling.... 12a's don't have them!

Yeah, the thermal pellet was Mazda's way of warming the oil up faster after they discovered that the "beehive" oil cooler/heater basically sucked and cooked the oil, causing oil O-ring leakage on an unprecedented scale.

'85-earlier engines don't have 'em! I've seen some places recommend using '85-earlier e-shafts in later engines to eliminate the thermal pellet.

What if one has a 2nd gen oil cooler on a 12A? Any reason to worry?

no

Several places, including Atkins Rotary sells thermal pellet replacements. The part is basically a plastic replacement of the original part, that doesn't move, and replaces the oil pressure in full mode all the time.

Easier and cheaper than trying to find an old e-shaft.

I have one in my 85 cosmo powered POS. I like the rotor bearing to have oil at all times :)

The thermal pellet has nothing to do with the oil cooler, in this case. 2nd-gen oil coolers still have thermostats in them. The thermal pellet cuts oil flow to the rotors when the engine is cold, to force the engine to warm up faster. Faster warmup is all-important with modern emissions, because the warmup cycle is the only place left where we can clean the exhaust.

How so? Did you take your engine apart? Those pellets are in the E-shaft.

Or are you thinking by the oil pump, to have a higher oil pressure setting?

I got one for my T2 motor. Its not plastic it aluminum, and its made to the legnth of the original plug when the plunger is withdrawn all the way in, allowing oil to constantly go to the rotors reguardless of engine or oil temp. The original can fail and never open, meaning that oil will never get to the rotors. Not a good thing. I think its better to have oil constantly lube and cool the rotors.
Atkins rotary sells them cheaper than Mazdatrix, but if you get it from atkins, buy something else to go in the box cause they charge you $7.50 for shipping weather they send you the thermal pellet, a little baggy with the corner seal springs, or a whole engine gasket kit. I ordered the 93-95 corner seal springs and it was $7.50 for shipping. The springs come in a bag the size of a $20 sack of weed. :wtf:

Thanks for clearing that up for me Peejay :) The guy I talked with about this must not have had any clue as to what he was talking about.

Thats because Mazdatrix buys them from Atkins. And a little note: if you don't want to spend the $7.50 for shipping, you can always tell them that you want to have your order sent via USPS regular mail. It should only run you about $4. You can do that for most small orders. Just that Kathy doesn't like anyone to know.

That pellet I know of is behind the pulley, I removed the big ole nut, pulled out that spring crap and put in a atkins pellet replacemnt piece. It allows the oil to travel through the e shaft at all times...

it seems that the 13B has only become more and more advanced yet so much more ineffcient and less durable. i'm sticking with old skool

Elaborate, please.

Ok,Sorry for the late ass response but yeah,I emailed Atkins and yes,

It is NOT for the 12As,

Atkins makes them and they are NOT plastic but aluminum.

http://atkinsrotary.com/thermalpellet.jpg

And Yes you take out the big nut on the front e shaft pulley set up.

http://atkinsrotary.com/image4.gif

No the thermal pellet has nothing to do with the oil cooling system,
Thanks,

LOL you got anything to back that claim up. Its the same motor just bigger, however there are a few points I dont like about it. Like the rotor housing o rings and the side housings not like being lapped maybe once or twice at most... But anyways, its the same motor.

See sig , I got one in my FB.

And when it gets lost and doesnt make it, its your ass :)

Well the way I understand this, is the thermal pellet design is really good despite its drawbacks for cold climate engines that are driven short distances. Think about it, with the pre 86 engines fitted with the oil-air cooler it takes longer to heat the oil up to proper operating temp to boil off the moisture and gas that gets into the oil during start up. The water-oil cooler probably premotes more heating of the oil during the warm up cycle since its getting heated by the warming coolant until operating temp is reached, which probably makes it a good choice for a light driven 1st gen in cold climates, but anything more would nessessate the air-oil cooler.

As for emissions, getting operating temp quickly is critical for EPA standards since lowest emissions are achieved operating around or above 185 to 195F in most engines.

Basically everything I said, but keep in mind how FC's love to flood if they're driven short distances and shut off before 100% completely warmed up due to a bug in the ECU. :)

Frankly if you have to drive short distances, get a boinger powered car and save your rotary powered cars for long trips. Mid 80's FWD Corollas are perfect for this because they're damn near indestructible, they don't seem to rust even, and they're boring enough that you'll never forget why you have a Mazda. The Chevy Nova badged ones are identical but usually costs 25-50% less.

I am not aware of this problem. I do own a N/A FC. I never had any problem with flooding except when I once started it and adroptly accidentily popped the clutch about 2 seconds later and killed. Then went to start it and it had no compression due to all the raw gas in it from the additional added during the first few seconds. A simple 10second unflood procedure later and it started right up.

But ANY other time I started it and ran it for more then 10 seconds(which is far from being even starting to warm up) and shut it off, it never flooded, ever. Even if 10F outside. I know the flooding problems most FC people experience are related to leaky injectors or old engine seals/housings resulting in compression loss which is not exactly the ECU's fault.

I had a '81 Corolla. It got hit by a pick-up truck driving down the wrong side of the road and I still was able to drive it home.

I hope my 2003 is the same way LOL

My mom's '93 Corolla met an Audi at 15mph. There was nothing left of the car ahead of the firewall. Just smeared right off.

No injuries due to the accident, although she suffered burns and a dislocated jaw from the federally-mandated steering wheel grenade :rant:

Yeah no shit, I had the same problem when I wrecked that 99 Stratus ES , air bag fucked me up more than the wreck. :ar: