Ok I'm stuck.

Car wasnt getting fuel, replaced fuel pump.
Now, it starts for a few seconds, but it sounds literally EXATCLY like a push lawnmower, then dies.

After a few attempts we get smoke at the tail pipe, but not like oil smoke or steam, its a lingering mist and creeps out of the holes in the muffler for quite a while after the car stops.

Any ideas?

 

somthing in ur exhaust like a nest of some sort lol thats odd...

 

Rebild the carb. If that has been done and it still dosen't work, drop the gas tank and have it flushed and resealed. This is all assuming you have a 12a motor. It really would be more usefull if you provided the year and model of the car.

 

^^^ +1

 

Sounds like a blockage in the exhaust system. Maybe plugged cats ? Who knows. We need to know year, mods, and history to make any better guesses.

garbage in, garbage out

 

Flooded? Low compression as a result of flooding will make it sound like a lawn mower...

 

I don't think it's a lack of fuel at all. I think your cats are clogged (if you have them). If you don't have cats, I think it's flooded/flooding. Make sure your plugs are clean, unflood the motor, start it and observe the fuel flow into the venturis. Post your results for further help.
Good luck

 

I could be wrong, but mabey its getting too much fuel? I've had the lingering mist in the tailpipe before and its always been associated with flooding.

 

Check spark and compression. Lawn mower sound is usually associated with bad spark or a seal. Could be lack of fuel to one rotor too.

 

1985 Gsl, 12a.

It has exhaust leaks but they are preexsisting and never had that noise before.

Flooding seems likley, it has always had trouble with that. How do I unflood? Also someone mention observing the venturi for flow once we start it, what shall I look for?

Thank you so much.


-Jeff

 

oh and whats the compresion supposed to be approx? my haynes man. is lacking

 

An overall compression of about 95psi is good on an old motor. It will run on as low as 80psi though, but not good. Fresh rebuild can be as much as 115psi.

 

Sorry one more ignorant question. Should I test compression on leading or trailing?

 

As far as I know, it doesn't really matter which plug hole you check the compression from, just make sure of course that the other plug is still in. Also, you should check the compression on each rotor face, along with the overall compression on each rotor. To check just one rotor face, you need to remove the valve from inside the compression tester connector end and read the needle bounces as the engine rotates.

 

you can also press the valve open and it will show readings on each face. try to get the engine as warm as possible to test it

 

Dump a couple of caps ful of oil down the primary barrels, then try to start it again. If its flooded, then there's a good chance that might get it running for you.

 

awesome we'll try it all tonight. Love you guys for helping!