Greetings, I am sure somebody would know what else to try. I have had this 85 gsl-se for a long time and have tried to keep it running and stock. 127,000 miles. I started to get a little misfire at 4500 so I figured with it's age, there's probably a vacuum leak, so I went through everything and no cigar. I finally decided to replace the grommets on the fuel injectors. When I took the wire connectors off, they crumbled. I couldn't find the wire connectors anywhere so I rigged up some blade connectors. When I took the intake manifold off, I saw wire smoke(I can't smell). I didn't disconnect the battery like a dumbass. It was one of the fuse-able links. The one that operates fuel pump and other things. I fixed the link and all the lights that were suppose to come on when the key is one worked again.But when I tried to start it, I couldn't get any spark. I have had ignitors go out on me in the past, so I figured my little electrical grounding killed both igniters. I found a reconditioned alternator online that included both igniters for less than two igniters. I put it in(after learning how) and still no spark, so I figured that both coils were bad as well, still no spark. I am now wondering if the igniters that came with the distributor are bad. Please don't laugh at my stupidity, but any suggestion is welcome.

 

First off, welcome aboard. Next, you're going to need to be a lot more methodical when it comes to troubleshooting problems and solving them. Rarely will throwing parts at the potential problems fix them.

Going back through your post, Borg-Warner makes the Injector Pigtails that you need to fix the wire loom for your fuel injectors. Last time I checked, they were $7 each, and you'll need 2. Splice those into the wire harness where they belong, and get the right connectors on there instead of generic clips which are sure to fail and cause all kinds of problems.

Next, how do you KNOW you don't have spark? How are you testing for spark? On an SE, there are various ECU feeds coming from the area near your coils and Intake to help the ECU operate. If you've melted anything here from your burning wire episode, it may not be spark you're missing. Tell us more about that.

While you're at it, fill us in on how long you've owned this car, what kind of rotary (or other) knowledge you have and if any of this sounds confusing of what I stated above. Good luck, and be patient; I hope you have another car as your DD, because this doesn't sound like a good matchup just yet.

 

A really good place to start is with the Field Service Manual. Check my signature panel for the download link.
There may be other items of interest there as well, all free.

 

Longduck, before the wiring issue, I could get it to fire on ether, but not since then. I figured if it has any spark, it would fire on it. I ordered this car from the factory for my Mom and she bought it new. I have had it for eight years now. gsl-se with 13b. I think I installed the alternator right. I lined up the notch on right of the pulley(looking from front) with the little pointer and lined up the notch on the end of the alternator where it should be.

 

You are saying alternator but you must mean the distributor I'm guessing.

 

right, distributor

 

would a bad air charge sensor stop the spark?

 

Okay, I'll bite; what is an "Air Charge Sensor"?

 

some call it an air temp sensor. I screws into the drivers side of the intake. Two black wires and a black wire connector. I forgot to disconnect it when I was removing the intake and broke the wires

 

nope, spark is distributor -> ignitor -> coils. if it spins, has power and good ignitors, it will spark

for the air temp sensor you can use the FC one and attach your old wires to it

 

UPDATE: Yes I have good spark now, but fuel injectors arn't doing their thing. I kinda suspect when I had my little wire burning episode, my fuel relay stopped working. I ran out of time to work on it to test the relay, but I'll have time this Thursday.

 

So, it wasn't spark. Search on my username and "Fuel Pump Test" - there's a way to bypass the Air Flow Meter so you can test Fuel Pump operation. Second, make sure the white wire from your Trailing Ignitor is connected properly and intact. It drives your Tachometer signal but also tells the ECU when to fire the Injectors. Do you have a Tach that works?

Also, you mentioned a Fusible Link was burned. The SE has 2 separate Links marked "Inject" amd "Compu" on a second block above the standard 3 that should be checked, too.

 

This outfit has a good assortment: https://connectorexperts.com/