new wierd problem. please read.
#1
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new wierd no start problem. please read.
so, as probably none of you know, I've recently swapped a S5 motor into my car. it was originally a base model S4, but it first underwent the TII swap, and then I needed a new motor, so I went with a S5 Jspec motor. I swapped the motor in a few weeks ago and had it running, but its just been sitting in the garage while I do minor things to make it streetable.
ever since I got the car running, its been wierd about starting when cold. it'll start up, then die, about 3 or 4 times, then it'll start up and run fine, except sometimes it wants to die when I step on the throttle at all, but sometimes I NEED to step on it to keep it running. it would always run excellent after it had run for a couple minutes though.
then, I noticed the fuel hoses(which I replaced with new ones) were bulging, and really rubbery, so I decided to replace them. I did that last night, and put a couple more things on tonight, and started it up. it did the usual start and die for the first few times, then I let it run for a couple minutes, and shut it off to check for leaks. it was good, so I started it up to take it for a test drive. about 30 seconds after I started it, it died. sounded just like I turned the key off, not like it was out of fuel, or anything. and it would not start again. just cranks over and over.
it sounds like it has compression due to the exhaust note. there are not any leaks on any of the fuel hoses I replaced, or anywhere else. and I couldn't find any loose or broken connections. I also took the cap off the CAS, and it look nice and clean, nothing broken.
does anyone have any ideas as to what could be up?
any help is very welcome.
ever since I got the car running, its been wierd about starting when cold. it'll start up, then die, about 3 or 4 times, then it'll start up and run fine, except sometimes it wants to die when I step on the throttle at all, but sometimes I NEED to step on it to keep it running. it would always run excellent after it had run for a couple minutes though.
then, I noticed the fuel hoses(which I replaced with new ones) were bulging, and really rubbery, so I decided to replace them. I did that last night, and put a couple more things on tonight, and started it up. it did the usual start and die for the first few times, then I let it run for a couple minutes, and shut it off to check for leaks. it was good, so I started it up to take it for a test drive. about 30 seconds after I started it, it died. sounded just like I turned the key off, not like it was out of fuel, or anything. and it would not start again. just cranks over and over.
it sounds like it has compression due to the exhaust note. there are not any leaks on any of the fuel hoses I replaced, or anywhere else. and I couldn't find any loose or broken connections. I also took the cap off the CAS, and it look nice and clean, nothing broken.
does anyone have any ideas as to what could be up?
any help is very welcome.
Last edited by Bigretardhead; 03-31-04 at 10:37 PM.
#2
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Are the fule lines on correctly? Do you know if you have spark? Maybe something jiggled loose? Are the plugs fouled? Could it be flooded?
Just some ideas.
Just some ideas.
#3
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Check for spark first, just pulla plug boot and see if it sparks againts a ground when cranking. Check your injectors, fuel pump etc, the line may be hooked up right and good but soething else in the fuel system might have failed. Just some more ideas
#4
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well, so I checked it out more. I don't have fuel or spark
the thing though, is that I checked the CAS, and both coils, and they're all good. the thing though, is that I'm not quite sure what both wires that go to the coils do. one of them(black one I think) showed like .8 V when cranking the engine, and the other one was 0 all the time. that one should carry 12.7 volts to the coil, right?
with the fuel pump, its a walbro unit, about 1000 miles old. I was looking at the wires to the fuel pump, and it was kinda wierd. the light blue wire was cut, and went to a little black box with 5 male wire connectors on it, and then back to the plug. only two of the terminals on the box were connected electrically, the two that the blue wires went two. and one wire from it went to ground. I really have absolutely no idea what it was for, but I know it wasn't stock, so I just spliced the blue wire back together. then, with the key on, it showed .8 V. I'm guessing that's for the fuel gauge? the white wire with red stripe showed 12.5 V, the black wire showed 0 V (ground) and the other wire, don't remember the color, also showed 0 V. is this right?
that's with the key in the on position. I also tried to jumper the fuel pump, but it didn't make a difference.
so, with this info, can anyone help me? or have any questions?
the thing though, is that I checked the CAS, and both coils, and they're all good. the thing though, is that I'm not quite sure what both wires that go to the coils do. one of them(black one I think) showed like .8 V when cranking the engine, and the other one was 0 all the time. that one should carry 12.7 volts to the coil, right?
with the fuel pump, its a walbro unit, about 1000 miles old. I was looking at the wires to the fuel pump, and it was kinda wierd. the light blue wire was cut, and went to a little black box with 5 male wire connectors on it, and then back to the plug. only two of the terminals on the box were connected electrically, the two that the blue wires went two. and one wire from it went to ground. I really have absolutely no idea what it was for, but I know it wasn't stock, so I just spliced the blue wire back together. then, with the key on, it showed .8 V. I'm guessing that's for the fuel gauge? the white wire with red stripe showed 12.5 V, the black wire showed 0 V (ground) and the other wire, don't remember the color, also showed 0 V. is this right?
that's with the key in the on position. I also tried to jumper the fuel pump, but it didn't make a difference.
so, with this info, can anyone help me? or have any questions?
#5
that little black unit with all the male ends to it sounds like a relay for a fuel cut off switfch. if you say it is all after market maybe there is a strange possibility that there is a battery and fuel kill switches. check around and see if you have odd switched under the dash. maybe your can was running onleft over fuel 9n the lines and it finally gave out????? kinda doubtful but hey it's really cheap to check. no ideas other than that.
also keep the relay connected it's there for a good reason. so you don't fry your switch or pump.
also keep the relay connected it's there for a good reason. so you don't fry your switch or pump.
#6
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there is a fuel cutoff switch, but I installed it. I did not, however, install the relay. and there's no reason for it to be there because the only thing hooked to it was a ground, and the two fuel guage wires, and it was done so, so that the switch would not effect what was hooked to it, only if you connected something else.
so, if it was somehow running on left over fuel, all that fuel would have been evacuated from the lines when I changed them, so there's no way for more fuel to get through those lines unless the fuel pump was running for that short period before the motor stopped. and also, it didn't sound like it ran out of fuel. it sounded how it would if you just shut it off normally.
so, if the CAS and the coils are all in good condition, and the coil gets a signal of when to fire, then what's keeping it from doing that? what else could have failed to cause it to not spark? the computer? would a bad computer also make the fuel pump not work? how can I test the computer?
so, if it was somehow running on left over fuel, all that fuel would have been evacuated from the lines when I changed them, so there's no way for more fuel to get through those lines unless the fuel pump was running for that short period before the motor stopped. and also, it didn't sound like it ran out of fuel. it sounded how it would if you just shut it off normally.
so, if the CAS and the coils are all in good condition, and the coil gets a signal of when to fire, then what's keeping it from doing that? what else could have failed to cause it to not spark? the computer? would a bad computer also make the fuel pump not work? how can I test the computer?
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#11
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oh, and which wire(s) are supposed to power the fuel pump? is it just that one white/red wire? if so, then why would it be getting power all the time? and it still doesn't turn on anyway ? and what does that one other wire do(besides the black and the blue one) ?
thanks
thanks
#12
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okay, well, the 15A ENG fuse was blown. I replaced it, and it started!
but it still shuts off like the first 4 times or so I try to start it. that's the only problem now any ideas to this? is that what sounds like the fuel lines switched? why would it even run at all like that?
also, at idle it runs really lean. like, my A/F gauge doesn't even get a reading on it. but as you rev it a little, it gets more rich.
could switched fuel lines do this?
but it still shuts off like the first 4 times or so I try to start it. that's the only problem now any ideas to this? is that what sounds like the fuel lines switched? why would it even run at all like that?
also, at idle it runs really lean. like, my A/F gauge doesn't even get a reading on it. but as you rev it a little, it gets more rich.
could switched fuel lines do this?
#13
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BUMP!!!! switched my fuel lines, and the car wouldn't start at all, as I imagined. so why does my car die the first 5 or 6 times I try to start it?
please, any possibilities are welcomed.
please, any possibilities are welcomed.
#16
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once more. bump.
should I just start a new thread?
once again, clarified:
the only problem I'm having, is that the first 4 or 5(sometimes more) times I try to start the car when cold, it just dies. start, and die - start, and die- start and die - start, and die - start and die - start... almost.... die - start... okay. looks good now. you get the idea?
it doesn't matter if I use the throttle at all. it just tries to start revving higher before it dies when I do that.
should I just start a new thread?
once again, clarified:
the only problem I'm having, is that the first 4 or 5(sometimes more) times I try to start the car when cold, it just dies. start, and die - start, and die- start and die - start, and die - start and die - start... almost.... die - start... okay. looks good now. you get the idea?
it doesn't matter if I use the throttle at all. it just tries to start revving higher before it dies when I do that.
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