Ok, thought my 7 was finally going to be streetable, then I took her for a test drive. I was severly lacking in the power department even stalled going up the hill. The tach was bouncing around even though the engine speed was smooth (made evident by my noisy exhaust). Due to that, I thought it would be electrical in nature. So I did a load test; turning on my stereo, headlights, and blower. The tach bouncing became worse and the engine bogged down.
What the hell could be going on? I was hoping to get her on the road on thursday, but I can't drive her around like this. If I turn my light on I have to worry about stalling. One more symptom: when I turned the turn signal on, the alternator meter shifted with the lights turning on and off.

 

Is this a 12a or 13b? carb or FI?

The amp meter moving with the turn signals is pretty common, I wouldn't worry too much about that. Your other problems sound almost like something is up with the coils, or the wiring going to the coils. I would double check all connections there and clean them up if they have any corrosion.

Also (not to insult you!!) but double check that all the plug wires are going to the right plugs. A friend was banging his head against the wall for days trying to figure out why his car had no power, turned out to be crossed plug wires.

 

12a with nikki carb, rats nest removed, stock otherwise. I'm not easily insulted, I will check all connections. I was thinking maybe the trailing ignitor b/c the tach works off of it, right?

 

Sounds like no leading or weak leading spark to me. Probably only running on trailing.

 

I know the coil resistances are correct, i could not test the ignitors the way in the fsm. is there an easier way?

 

I've never actually tested one to be honest... Yeah the tach runs off the trailing coil. As T G farrell said its probably got really weak, or non-existant leading spark...

 

Which igniter is leading and which one is trailing? i think i might have a bad connection on the one on the rad side.

 

Towards the radiator is the leading ignitor. Make sure the negative battery cable and all of it's connections are clean and tight. If you are running the original cables, I would replace them. Negative cable first. Make sure the fusible link box and all it's terminals are clean. Vacuum leak will cause stall when stopping and when lights, blower fan, power windows, etc. are turned on. Check your vacuum caps, especially the large one for the #2 anti-afterburn valve on the rear of the intake manifold.

 

My simple voltmeter test showed that I'm getting nothing from the alternator. I'm going to bench test it at work today. Could that be causing my issues? It seems strange but I suppose it could starve the ignition system of power.

 

If you are getting nothing from the alternator, then you are running your car off of the battery. It won't run for long on that. Isn't there an ALT dummy light that goes on when the alternator stops working?

 

I'd take the alternator off and have it bench tested to confirm your test.

A full tune up might be next.

 

I will bench test at work today, pls read. Plugs(Denso) and wires are new, but a full tune-up is always on the agenda.

 

Alternator bench tested at ≤ 11V. A new one has been ordered. Sometimes working at a parts store has benefits.