357

About a week ago, my steering wheel started making this light scraping sound when I turned it near center. It then got more coarse and loud, then went to a squeaking. What the heck is going on?? I'm not sure this is relevant, but I tightened my upper idler arm bushing retention nut a bit to take the slop ot of the link about two days before this started. Also, I'm pretty darn sure its actually coming from someplace very near the wheel itself, as opposed to the steering gear, cause the sound is very clear (i.e., it doesn't sound distorted by being transmitted through a hunk of metal not meant to transmit sound waves).

Rx7carl

Maybe your column is rubbing on the wiper/light switch? Is there any play in the wheel? not left and right but fore aft.

357

Nope. It almost sounds like somethin's caught in between the wheel hub and the backing plate.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Well is there? Also, does your horn work? It could be that the metal contatcs (they look like flint for a lighter) have worn down and are now just grinding away in there, or maybe the actual contact has gotten wedged between there. Also, check to make sure that the wheel isnt rubbing on the plastic surround. Hope that helps .

~T.J.

mwpayne

I got the same problem. I pulled the wheel off & sprayed WD-40, mostly went away. Not sure what was causing it, theough..

Rotary Revolution

I also have this problem. I dont worry about it becasue I have gotten used to it!

REVHED

I agree with RMD, it's probably the horn contacts. The contact surface needs a light film of grease which can dry off over time and cause the sort of noise you're describing.

brownmound

I agree with RMD too; I had the same scrapey sound after I cleaned and rebuilt my combo switch. I took the steering wheel off again and found that the little "lighter flint" thing (good descipt. BTW) had a recess in it, as if to accept a ball bearing. I salvaged one from my old combo switch (they are TINY, I mean you could feed one to a baby with no worries ) put it in the little recess and the scrapey noise ceased. Not sure really if there was a ball there, but the ball sure works! Hold it in with some grease, also aids in the lube process.

Good call RMD.

Right on.

680RWHP12A

oil,/grease is your friend!!!!!! p/s works good in the fro too!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Wankelguy

It's preferable to use silicone dialectric grease to lube the horn contact button and ring. It's conductivity ensures proper horn function. Sometimes the ring itself will get deep grooves and must be replaced. Putting a steel ball bearing in the hole of the contact button seems like a good way to speed up this process.

brownmound

Really? I really don't see how a greased ball bearing could SPEED UP the process of wearing a ring in the horn, when you consider the alternative of a "flint-like" tiny steel square edged cylinder rubbing on the ring....last time I checked flints were used for starting fires and ball bearings for making moving parts last a lot longer.

Just my thoughts there...now back to cleaning the Mound's engine (web page coming soon, looking good.)

Right on.

Wankelguy

Don't take it personally. The contact material is nothing like flint, it's purposely softer than the metal ring that it rides on to avoid wearing the ring. And the steel ball bearing IS harder than the metal ring so yes, it CAN speed up the process of wearing a groove in the horn ring, regardless of whether you understand how or not.

brownmound

Nothing personal....I'm just based my assumptions on my experience....I rebuilt the combo switch, smeared some dielectric grease on the "flint" and ring, reassembled and got an annoying scraping noise. Dissassembled, found a dome shaped recess in the "flint", assumed I lost a ball bearing, put one in, greased it up, scraping noise was gone.

I understand that softer metal is less likely to wear the ring than the steel ball (I'm a structural engineer, so I've got some materials background), but it's also more annoying. If the ball bearing wears a groove so deep that I need to replate the ring, I'll do it no big deal. Easily found in a junk yard for sure. Next time I remove the steering wheel I'll be sure to take a look.

Selah.

elnerdo

I've had the same problem. There's two possiblities. First of all, there's a plastic bushing that sits behind the steering wheel which holds the steering column shaft concentric to the column. Eventually it wears out and allows the steering wheel to "orbit" the column as you turn. Its a pain to replace and involves removing the shaft but once its done it'll feel like a new car.

The other possibile cause of the noise is that the collapsible portion of the steering column has creeped. When this happens the steering wheel gets too close to the plastic cover that houses the turn signal indicator etc. When you turn the wheel it makes a plastic scrapy sound which is totally annoying

To fix it, get a block of wood and a mallot and whack the collapsed portion of the colum back out. You'll have to get down on the floorboard of your car to get acces but once you have a look you'll understand what to do. There's three metal bands that connect the collapsible portion of the column to the stationary portion. If the bands are less than taught it means the column has moved.

Good luck,

Craig

jutny

allright party people, please tell me how the **** to get the horn button off?

this is on a SA, but i dont know if that matters.

my horn is on all the time, so i yanked the fuse, but now i have no brakelights, so i was gonna go fix the horn button (one of the things that holds it on sort of broke i guess, so now it always makes contact unless you hold it a certian way)

jutny

nevermind, i'm a moron.

the cap just pulls off

one of those 3 screws was real loose.