Originally Posted by Me, Myself, and I

A well charged battery and good starter are key. Battery cables and terminals however are a commonly overlooked item. Nothing works well with inadequate power. Examine the terminals for severe corrosion. Scrape them clean. Check where the wire enters the terminal.

It's best to charge the battery overnight. Batteries typically take a few amps to charge when you first hook the charger up. Look at the Ammeter on the front of your charger. (Most include one.) They taper off as they charge up, by the time they're done they may take around half an amp or so. If the battery takes no current what so ever, then it is defective. Defective batteries should be disposed of, as I will not be going into the process of adding water to maintainable batteries. Battery voltage should be no less than 12 volts after charging (No electrical items on.) and around 9 or 10 while attempting to crank. If it doesn't go down while cranking, there is a problem in the starting system. If it goes below 8 or 9, replace the battery. If you can't use a voltmeter, try to crank the car with the headlights on. You may need an assistant to watch. If the headlights do NOT dim while attempting to crank, suspect the starting system. Batteries typically last around 4-6 years. Discharging them (Leaving your lights on overnight, electrical accessories on without the engine on, running with a bad or inadequate alternator, etc.) shortens their life, as car batteries are designed for short, large bursts of power, not deep cycle use. Look into Optima brand batteries for long use, especially if you're an audiophile or have a truck with a winch.

The starter solenoid is sometimes located on the starter, or sometimes on the firewall, close to the battery. Just follow the positive cable to it. It uses the largest branch of the cable. You can try to hotwire the car to test the starter. Most starter solenoids have three terminals on them. One big one in from the battery, one big one out to the starter, and one small one from the ignition switch. To hotwire the car, first put the shift lever in neutral (For a manual, Or Park for a slush box... Very important as this bypasses any neutral safety switches and clutch interlocks, if so equipped. I am not responsible for any damage, injury, or death caused by anything in this text.) Use a test lead to connect the small wire from the ignition switch to the positive terminal of the battery, or that large positive connector on the solenoid. The solenoid should click once loudly. If not, replace it. Check for battery voltage at both large terminals. If one does not have power, replace the solenoid.

If everything up till now works, remove the starter. You may elect to test it at home or bring it to an auto parts store for testing. To test it at home first inspect the pinion gear and the ring gear on the engine where the starter was attached. Look for severely damaged teeth. If there is damage, replace the starter or flywheel. Use your battery charger or jumper cables and a car battery. Hold the starter on the floor with your foot. Connect the negative cable to the body of the starter. The flange where it bolts to the engine of transmission works well, now touch positive to where the wire enters the motor body. (NOTE: Be careful to NOT touch the starter body. Doing so may cause a fire. As usual, I am not responsible for anything.) The starter pinion gear should sprig forward and spin. (If you have a cheap, low current charger, it may overload. Starters consume LOTS of power.) If the starter works, several consecutive times, it is good. Sometimes, however the problem is intermittent.

If all else fails, the car could be carbon locked or hydro locked. Cranking with the spark plugs removed solves hydro lock, however hydro lock indicates other severe problems such as water seal or head gasket failure. Either that or you should stop driving through rivers. Carbon lock occurs mainly in rotary engines. A chunk of carbon that has built up on an internal component breaks off and jambs the rotor against one of the intake or exhaust ports. Try using a socket wrench to crank the engine in the opposite direction. (It may help to remove the spark plugs. Cranking an engine with compression is hard work.) Alternatively, the ATF/MMO treatment helps soften these carbon deposits. Spirited driving, and occasional high RPMs help prevent carbon buildup. (But don't go above redline.)