tommyeflight89

iTrader: (4)

Hi,
After a lot of thought and research I am looking at getting into an FB. I have been lucky enough to drive my fathers 1982 GS with about 60K miles on the ODO. It is all original with the exception of a repaint in the original metallic gold. Beaitiful car that I drove for maybe 8K miles one summer. That started the FB/12A love affair.


I have found a nice 1984 GS locally. It looks to be a very clean car, and has 83000 original miles. Paint is in great shape, and it seems to have a good maintenance history. Some of the ignition system and cooling system has been overhauled/replaced. New rad etc. Has some nice suspension work and comes with several spares.


Here is where my questions start. I have good "drivers" experience with rotaries (starting, oil consumption, proper wamr-up etc) but not much maintenance experience. I know the 12A is a very reliable engine when properly cared for (cooling system, oil changes etc).

I have looked up a few 'buyers' guides for the FB and think I know what to look for. Ie how the engine starts cold, ensuring only a light amount of blue smoke when cold, and no smoke when warm. Should have a good idle. Ensuring it can start when warm easily. Checking for oil leaks between housing and iron etc.


I want some advice regarding how much of a risk it is buying an older 12A like this, especially since a 12A rebuild seems to be hard to come buy these days. The last thing I would want is find out the car needs a new motor in 10K miles! Down the road I would swap a carbed 13B

If I had a compression check done on it, would be that about all I could do to make me feel good about the purchase? Ideally I would have a local rotary specialist check it out.

These 12A cars seem very reliable, my fathers has been great so far, and a lot of feedback on the forums states that the 12A keeps on ticking... I just want some assurance.

Thanks for any advice!

Cookboy

iTrader: (10)

Sounds like a real gem. Buy it and drive it.

midnight mechanic

FB's are bullet proof so long as you do everything yourself.

The problem with professional mechanics is that they view any car that is over 5 years old as old. And since they are under time constraints, they take short cuts. Or they don't do the work at all.

Also the general public is car ignorant. So the pro mechanics will assume that you are a total ignoramus. It is better to do the work yourself, and not have to argue with someone that knows that they are lying.

And check the rear wheel wells for rust holes, and oil filler cap for lung mustard.

My original fb engine blew at 220K miles/ 21 years. The lowest price rebuilt atkins motor is showing its age ( black smoke, and white smoke/steam) after 10 years. I had to re-do the rear wheel wells. And replacing the alternator, water pump, starter, radiator, coaster valve, catalytic converter, brake hydralics, clutch hydralics, clutch, brake pads, rear axle seals, combi turn signal switch, rubber gas lines, fuel pump, coolant hoses, oil cooler line, OMP pump, battery cables, driveshaft universal joint......all were pretty straight forward.

When the engine blew the apex seal, it went all of a sudden. It felt like it had 10 extra hp right before it went. I don't think compression test will tell you much. When it was running on one rotor, it could barely run. Had to clutch pop in 1st when the car moving.

Cameron38

iTrader: (2)

Are you required to get an annual "Smog" check in Ontario? People with non-FI FB's here in Calif often have a rough time getting them to pass. Other than the engine, frequent wear areas are the Drive shaft, trans mount and suspension parts. But you will know if you have any of those problems when you drive it.

black82gsl

iTrader: (3)

This is just my opinion but I would try to find a gsl or gsl-se over a gs. The gs (if I'm not mistaken) has rear drum brakes and a open diff (no fun)
The gsl has all disc brakes and a LSD rear end. I have a gsl but only because I couldn't find a gsl-se in my $$ range. Se is fuel injected. I've never driven one but I'm thinking fuel injected would be more reliable.

tommyeflight89

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the advice! If i go check it out I will keep those items in mind.

I will keep my eye out for "lung butter" also... had to google to see what that meant haha.

As for Smog check, in Ontario emissions testing is only required on newer cars.

I do hear you regarding trying to find a GSL vs a GS, but something about the simpler FB's with fewer options attracts me. This one doesn't have AC or PS. Swapping in a -SE rear end is something I could do down the road. Also not a fan of what is usually the ugly red leather interior!

Cameron38

iTrader: (2)

The vast majority of GSL's and SE's where not equipped with the Leather option. I kinda like my "ugly Red leather Interior"... it's very 80's Retro LOL

Cookboy

iTrader: (10)

But the GS is a lighter and simpler car. The rear drums are not a drawback, and an open diff makes your right toe become more than just an off/on switch.
That, and the Nikki cars are in my estimation more reliable. But that's just my opinion.

black82gsl

iTrader: (3)

True. I have the hideous red interior. Or burgundy? I don't know, just wish it was black lol.

Qingdao

iTrader: (3)

true.

Us drum brakers don't have brake drag hahaha

Banzai

iTrader: (13)

If the car appears well cared for and the 83K milege is accurate, I'd say your risk is fairly low to moderate. Mechanically, these cars are pretty reliable. There's no black magic to a rotary, its just a mechanical variation of an internal combustion engine. Nothing that can't be learned and understood through some experience and enthusiasm.

The key I think, is you have to remember that these are 30 something year old cars now. Not the usual kind of car you normally buy to daily drive. Although plenty of guys here do still use them that way, I'd approach it with the intention thats it more of a 2nd car, a project or toy to be tinkered with rather than my main mode of transportation. I'd bet thats what your dads car has become for him.

I think its smart to look for an "unmolseted" or mostly stock car. Many have now had 3 or more owners who may have upgraded the car over time by swapping parts from other years or installed aftermarket modifications. Not necessarily a bad thing but it can lead to confusion if you are trying to troubleshoot say an electrical problem. Not to mention the previous owners idea of quality and level of skill may not match even your own.

Sounds like you're asking good questions, just remember that even a well cared for and low mile car can have problems crop up after 30 years. You at least have this forum to help you out when needed. Good luck in your decision.

Cameron38

iTrader: (2)

Any 30+ year old car is probably best not used as a daily driver just for safety concerns. No Airbags, No anti-lock brakes, no stability control etc. But they are a lot of fun as a 2nd car/hobby car!

tommyeflight89

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for all the feedback!!

Yes, this would be a second car, a summer toy!

My dad's has been extremely reliable. Other than basic maintenance, new clutch, rad, and some break work, it hasn't caused a single problem. Alternator let go once and left me on the side of the road.. thats it! (And you could hear the bearing going anyway)


I will go check it out.

Cookboy

iTrader: (10)

Sounds perfect to me.

project7s

iTrader: (5)

Yeah air bags, abs, and other late model crap is just more stuff to break lol. My daily driver is a 70 cutlass