Side fire plugs
#1
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Side fire plugs
I was just wondering if anybody was using the side fire plugs talked about on Mazspeed.com
Is there any acceleration improvements with these?
I have 4 post around the electrode this I would think would be better than one.
It is time for some new plugs, do I go by side fires of make them my self?
Is there any acceleration improvements with these?
I have 4 post around the electrode this I would think would be better than one.
It is time for some new plugs, do I go by side fires of make them my self?
Last edited by LongBoardLarry; 02-09-02 at 01:38 AM.
#2
Old [Sch|F]ool
I didn't notice any real improvements from it, they're just easier to change than the stock plugs because the stock plugs require a modified spark plug socket to remove/install, whereas if you use plugs with a 5/8" hex you have no problems changing plugs using normal tools.
Note that my '80 engine didn not have the shrouds around the plugs, so it didn't matter on that engine.
I tried modifying and using the NGK plugs they recommend... I found that the plugs would last approximately 2 1/4mi passes and then they'd be severely worn/melted, had no problems with the stock BR8ET plugs. I tried modifying Autolite 3923 plugs, and had good success, which is to say they didn't burn away like the NGK's did, and have the desirable 5/8" hex.
I think the BR8ET would be a nice improvement over the oddly-designed BUR8EQ or whatever is spec'ed for '81-up models. The BR8ET has three well-spaced ground electrodes, instead of a ring around the center electrode. The -Q's seem like they were DESIGNED to foul.
Note that my '80 engine didn not have the shrouds around the plugs, so it didn't matter on that engine.
I tried modifying and using the NGK plugs they recommend... I found that the plugs would last approximately 2 1/4mi passes and then they'd be severely worn/melted, had no problems with the stock BR8ET plugs. I tried modifying Autolite 3923 plugs, and had good success, which is to say they didn't burn away like the NGK's did, and have the desirable 5/8" hex.
I think the BR8ET would be a nice improvement over the oddly-designed BUR8EQ or whatever is spec'ed for '81-up models. The BR8ET has three well-spaced ground electrodes, instead of a ring around the center electrode. The -Q's seem like they were DESIGNED to foul.
#4
Old [Sch|F]ool
Hmm. On my '84 engine the hex of the spark plug recedes into the shroud. You can't even SEE the hex. The only way to remove/install them is either with a special socket bought from RB or making your own by taking a normal socket and grinding it down literally until it's paper thin, only then will it fit!
Interestingly, the plugs on my '85 GSL stick out past the shrouds so you can grip them with a normal socket. Maybe the problem doesn't exist with the factory-recommended BUR8EQ (or whatever)? I never ran those plugs in my '84 engine and I've never tried running BR8ET's in this engine... yet.
Interestingly, the plugs on my '85 GSL stick out past the shrouds so you can grip them with a normal socket. Maybe the problem doesn't exist with the factory-recommended BUR8EQ (or whatever)? I never ran those plugs in my '84 engine and I've never tried running BR8ET's in this engine... yet.
#5
Super Newbie
I've used the FC BUR9EQ's and the FB plugs (forget the #) and they have always cleared the shroud. But I have heard of this problem before....
I did have to make a socket to put my Panasports on. The lug bolt hex is just barely smaller than the hole
I did have to make a socket to put my Panasports on. The lug bolt hex is just barely smaller than the hole
#6
Old [Sch|F]ool
Hmm... maybe the BR8ET's (which are '80-specific and were never spec'ed for FBs) have a different shell length?
I have some FC plugs in the garage and some BR8ETs around here SOMEwhere... think I'll do a little comparison!
I have some FC plugs in the garage and some BR8ETs around here SOMEwhere... think I'll do a little comparison!
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#9
Senior Member
I think I just answered my own question. Directly from the RB website:
Thin Wall Spark Plug Socket
Racing Beat's special Thin Wall Spark Plug Socket is specifically manufactured to allow the
installation and removal of spark plugs other than the factory recommended plugs in all 1981
and later engines [except spark plug Part No. 11547, (NGK R6725-11.5): no special socket is
required].
The thin wall construction of the socket allows it to slip inside the raised boss casting found on
the rotor housings to drive the spark plug hex.
Thin Wall Spark Plug Socket
Racing Beat's special Thin Wall Spark Plug Socket is specifically manufactured to allow the
installation and removal of spark plugs other than the factory recommended plugs in all 1981
and later engines [except spark plug Part No. 11547, (NGK R6725-11.5): no special socket is
required].
The thin wall construction of the socket allows it to slip inside the raised boss casting found on
the rotor housings to drive the spark plug hex.
#11
Right near Malloy
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The only time you need the stupid thin socket is if you're using stupid autolite plugs and if you use them, you're probably rotarded.
Even champion plugs, which are no good for rotaries, reach above the edge.
I like NGK's and NipponDenso's. Give you a bit more power and less popping out the exhaust.
Even champion plugs, which are no good for rotaries, reach above the edge.
I like NGK's and NipponDenso's. Give you a bit more power and less popping out the exhaust.
#12
Old [Sch|F]ool
Hey my '84 engine CAME WITH Champion plugs in it, and I was able to knock $100 off the price of the engine becase we couldn't pull the plugs to check compression
The stock FC plugs are almost identical to the stock FB plugs... they have a similarly long shell. SA plugs do not... and I was running SA plugs. I have one here, and it's about 14-15mm between the gasket surface and the top of the hex. That puts the top of the hex FLUSH with the collar in an FB engine.
The stock FC plugs are almost identical to the stock FB plugs... they have a similarly long shell. SA plugs do not... and I was running SA plugs. I have one here, and it's about 14-15mm between the gasket surface and the top of the hex. That puts the top of the hex FLUSH with the collar in an FB engine.
#13
Right near Malloy
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Originally posted by peejay
Hey my '84 engine CAME WITH Champion plugs in it, and I was able to knock $100 off the price of the engine becase we couldn't pull the plugs to check compression
Hey my '84 engine CAME WITH Champion plugs in it, and I was able to knock $100 off the price of the engine becase we couldn't pull the plugs to check compression
#15
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Originally posted by 1stand3rd
I think I just answered my own question. Directly from the RB website:
Thin Wall Spark Plug Socket
Racing Beat's special Thin Wall Spark Plug Socket is specifically manufactured to allow the
installation and removal of spark plugs other than the factory recommended plugs in all 1981
and later engines [except spark plug Part No. 11547, (NGK R6725-11.5): no special socket is
required].
The thin wall construction of the socket allows it to slip inside the raised boss casting found on
the rotor housings to drive the spark plug hex.
I think I just answered my own question. Directly from the RB website:
Thin Wall Spark Plug Socket
Racing Beat's special Thin Wall Spark Plug Socket is specifically manufactured to allow the
installation and removal of spark plugs other than the factory recommended plugs in all 1981
and later engines [except spark plug Part No. 11547, (NGK R6725-11.5): no special socket is
required].
The thin wall construction of the socket allows it to slip inside the raised boss casting found on
the rotor housings to drive the spark plug hex.
#16
EliteHardcoreCannuckSquad
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I had no problems with a regular sparkplug socket with both the old BREQ and new BUREQ plugs in my '85 -SE
I'm thinking of trying the BUREQP (platinum) plugs next time... Not sure yet tho...
I'm thinking of trying the BUREQP (platinum) plugs next time... Not sure yet tho...
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