Running lean on warm up.
Running lean on warm up.
My AFR meter is pegged on 22.4 / red while warming up. When I go for a cruise everything else seems fine. 14’s.
It’s a GSL-SE motor on a Mikuni.
Is this normal…?
Thanks in advance for any input.
It’s a GSL-SE motor on a Mikuni.
Is this normal…?
Thanks in advance for any input.
Innovative.
I just took her for a ride and it stayed pegged at 22.4 (which is the max reading).
I rembr when I installed it, reading in the directions something about setting it up / resetting it.
Now to see if I can find the directions. 🤷🏻♂️
I just took her for a ride and it stayed pegged at 22.4 (which is the max reading).
I rembr when I installed it, reading in the directions something about setting it up / resetting it.
Now to see if I can find the directions. 🤷🏻♂️
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Depending on the gauge/controller it's not uncommon for the readout to display full lean (or --.--) when the sensor dies. I had a couple sensors that began reading full lean on start up but after getting some heat in them they'd come back to life - not long after that they finally bit the dust. I can't say if it's the same issue you're running into, but if it persists odds are you've got a dead sensor.
Last edited by Benjamin4456; Feb 22, 2023 at 01:40 AM. Reason: phrasing
That’s kind of a shitty way for a sensor to go out being lean equal how you pop a motor. The things literally only been in the car for 10-15 startups tops.
Last edited by 85TIIDEVIL; Feb 24, 2023 at 01:13 PM.
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Re-Calibrating did nothing. The meter and sensor are brand new, only installed a little over a month ago w 10-15 starts and drives.
Pretty shitty design to randomly go lean before staying pegged when no longer working, especially when there’s a laundry list of lean causes. Enough to drive anyone crazy chasing ghosts for fear of popping a motor.
This is on a simple carb’ed car…. I could only imagine if it were EFI. Big thumbs down for Innovative.
Edit: Jezzzzus…. While looking for a replacement sensor the reviews are HORRIBLE. Just like J9 says, common occurrence. Everyone suggests buying a whole new AFR vs the $100 replacement sensor only to have it happen again and again.
Last edited by 85TIIDEVIL; Feb 26, 2023 at 01:16 PM.
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i'm told the bellenger one is the best https://www.rx7club.com/engine-manag.../#post12499808
Thanks for the info. I have the AEM one for awhile now on another car w No problems. I’m going to go that route again.
I’m running a Blow Thru tho and this doesn’t have the connection to hook up and monitor / run threw a labtop / aftermarket EFI system.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/38037536667...mis&media=COPY
I’m running a Blow Thru tho and this doesn’t have the connection to hook up and monitor / run threw a labtop / aftermarket EFI system.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/38037536667...mis&media=COPY
So I’m giving the Innovative another chance. After following the link J9 posted to another thread from last year above I found this…
$50 for a Bosch locally is worth another shot. So now I’m wondering if it’s Innovative’s sensor that goes bad or the unit itself cooking the sensor….?? It goes into a “HEAT” mode for a bit before giving a reading prior to every use.
Most likely you just need a new wideband O2 sensor that is compatible with your existing gauge/controller to get it working again. You'll need to check the specifics on your rig, but most of them use a Bosch LSU 4.9 compatible WBO2 sensor. The most common plug & play LSU 4.9 sensor replacement for that is Bosch part #17025, which has the typical D shaped connector, and the longest cable. Other Bosch part numbers have different cable lengths & connectors. A slightly better LSU 4.9 plug & play replacement IMHO for a rotary application is the Bosch part #17212, which is designed for diesel applications and according to its spec sheet, it can withstand higher EGTs, and withstand a more severe mechanical shock/vibration profile than the #17025. It probably will be more tolerant of burning pre-mix too, if it was designed for diesel but that's just a slightly educated guess. The #17212 will accurately measure the same AFR ranges as the #17025, and I'm using one of these with my Link G4+ ECU. Both sensors have the same D shaped connector, but the #17212 has a shorter cable lead than the #17025. You can buy these just about anywhere (google the part #), but I would get mine from a reputable source - lot's of cheap Chinese counterfeit parts out there. Expect to pay in the ballpark of $60~$80 for the real thing from a legit retailer - much less than that and it's probably a fake that may work for a week and then crap out.
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From: Beaverton, OR
Thanks for the info. I have the AEM one for awhile now on another car w No problems. I’m going to go that route again.
I’m running a Blow Thru tho and this doesn’t have the connection to hook up and monitor / run threw a labtop / aftermarket EFI system.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/38037536667...mis&media=COPY
I’m running a Blow Thru tho and this doesn’t have the connection to hook up and monitor / run threw a labtop / aftermarket EFI system.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/38037536667...mis&media=COPY
I have also heard good things about the Ballenger one but I have no experience with them. The controller certainly does play a large part in the life of the sensor regardless.
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