Rotary break-in?
06-19-19, 07:32 PM
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Rotary break-in?
Okay, so I'm in the midst of a rebuild; and I'm confused. I know that rotarys need some rev-action to stay healthy, but break-in period means no high revs! What do?
06-19-19, 09:30 PM
#3
The break-in can vary based on the components used in the rebuild. New housing v.s. original. new apex seals v.s. used, etc
I'd say stay below 4k (3k to 4k) for first 500 miles. Take it easy. Change oil after 500 miles.
There are many threads on this forum about the process: https://www.rx7club.com/general-rota...weight-958813/
I'd say stay below 4k (3k to 4k) for first 500 miles. Take it easy. Change oil after 500 miles.
There are many threads on this forum about the process: https://www.rx7club.com/general-rota...weight-958813/
Last edited by KansasCityREPU; 06-20-19 at 03:21 PM.
06-19-19, 10:17 PM
#4
Full Member
Thread Starter
Used irons (220k), used rotor housings (113k), new apex seals, side seals, corner seals, gasket kit. Rebuild delayed, one of my inner oil control rings broke 
06-20-19, 02:51 AM
#5
Be prepared for lower-than-normal compression until all the new bits bed-in. May take some cranking to get her going. Nice fresh battery and new or recent battery cables will help a lot in getting the juice where it needs to go.
Figure 1200-1500mi for the engine to be settled in.
Stu A
80GS
AZ
Figure 1200-1500mi for the engine to be settled in.
Stu A
80GS
AZ
06-25-19, 03:40 PM
#7
I think a lot is going to come down to personal preference. I spent hours reading through threads on this and other forums and there is no conclusive evidence as to the best way to break in a rotary. Or at least I couldn't find it.
I just did this on my fresh 12a rebuild.
60 miles at or below 3k
60 miles at or below 4k
60 miles at or below 5k
60 miles at or below 6k
60 miles at or below 7k.
For a total of ~300 miles. Then I changed my oil. I proceeded to drive it to the track another ~100 miles. I then pounded it hard at the track. Driving it like I stole it. Then I drove it home from the track. It now sits at 609 miles and it feels fantastic. I'm about to test the compression so we'll see how it looks. I'll also be sending my oil to blackstone for analysis when I'm ready to change the oil again.
The reality is, you're likely to do the most damage to your engine upon the very first start. Make sure your oil system is primed and be gentle at first.
I just did this on my fresh 12a rebuild.
60 miles at or below 3k
60 miles at or below 4k
60 miles at or below 5k
60 miles at or below 6k
60 miles at or below 7k.
For a total of ~300 miles. Then I changed my oil. I proceeded to drive it to the track another ~100 miles. I then pounded it hard at the track. Driving it like I stole it. Then I drove it home from the track. It now sits at 609 miles and it feels fantastic. I'm about to test the compression so we'll see how it looks. I'll also be sending my oil to blackstone for analysis when I'm ready to change the oil again.
The reality is, you're likely to do the most damage to your engine upon the very first start. Make sure your oil system is primed and be gentle at first.
Last edited by kippen; 06-25-19 at 03:43 PM.
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Frogman (06-25-19)
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06-25-19, 09:31 PM
#8
Senior Newbie Member
I dunno, I was told by a guy who rebuilds 13b's and renesis engines to let it idle 4 hours before driving it . as long as it didn't sound like it was going to spontaneously explode to let it make all the creaking and cracking it needed until it settled in. After that he told me to drive it easy for 300 miles .
06-25-19, 11:58 PM
#9
BREAK IN-
This courtesy of Rob Golden of Pineappleracing.com
He supervised my 12A build and has been in the rotary rebuild biz since the last century. Literally. I found the PRELUBE notes especially revealing
______________
Pineapple Racing
Recommended Engine Break-in Procedure
First Start:
Pre-lube the engine before starting. To pre-lube engine:
Leave oil line loop at front cover unattached with catch pan under it.
Repeatedly fill oil adapter outer cavity with oil and allow oil to gravity feed into loop oil line until oil is present at disconnected end of line. Attach the oil line at the front of the engine.
All oil lines should be attached.
Pour oil into center passage. Gravity will allow the oil to fill the engine’s internal passages. 2x more fills to the top after the 1st round gravity bleeds for a minute or 2.
[A quicker way to move oil into the engine’s internal passages is to apply low pressure air to filter adapter and push oil into loop line. Be sure to wear appropriate safety gear and use low pressure. The oil can blow out at you around the rubber tip of the air gun.
Prevent engine from starting, then crank engine until pressure gauge shows oil pressure or until oil indicator light on dash goes out.]
Check for leaks.
The above addresses only the oiling system; refer to factory manual for additional first-start precautions that may be necessary. Once Started, check for leaks while allowing engine to come up to operating temperature. Check all gauges frequently.
After engine reaches operating temperature, bleed air from cooling system as necessary per factory service manual.
Check oil level.
Allow engine to run for approximately 30 min. in neutral varying rpms, then turn off. allow the engine to cool, then change oil and filter.
For the first 500 miles
of driving, allow engine extra time to warm up before driving the car and do not exceed 4000rpm.
Change oil and filter at 500 miles.
From 500 to 2000 miles,
gradually increase engine rpm and load to the point of occasionally bringing the engine rpm to 7000 using no more than ¾ throttle.
Check oil level frequently during break-in. During break-in, any engine can consume a noticeable quantity of oil.
Failure to follow break-in instructions does not necessarily cause immediate engine failure. BUT we have found it will greatly shorten the life of many of the components.
For example, we have seen oil control rings loose ½ their life from lack of break-in. Consider your hard earned money and time when deciding a break-in procedure.
These instructions are not intended to supersede any other engine builder’s recommendations. They should have been chosen for their skill and knowledge. If they cannot provide you with the technical support you require, consider that the next time you look for an engine builder.
Oil Recommendations:
Manufacturer: any quality brand of oil is OK except Pennzoil. I dislike this one brand for buildup reasons.
Startup Oil Weight: For startup use a dead dinosaur(mineral based) oil in a 0w20 through 10w30.
Post Startup: For non-turbo engines we like thin oils like the 0w20-to-10w30 for all applications where the oil temp is kept below 220*F. Virtually all stock or near stock applications will not have an issue with oil temp. A well designed race car should be able to run these thinner oils. We have run 0w16 in full race circuit cars with great engine life.
Copyright: Pineapple Racing 2009-2016
________________________________
Stu A
80GS
AZ
This courtesy of Rob Golden of Pineappleracing.com
He supervised my 12A build and has been in the rotary rebuild biz since the last century. Literally. I found the PRELUBE notes especially revealing
______________
Pineapple Racing
Recommended Engine Break-in Procedure
First Start:
Pre-lube the engine before starting. To pre-lube engine:
Leave oil line loop at front cover unattached with catch pan under it.
Repeatedly fill oil adapter outer cavity with oil and allow oil to gravity feed into loop oil line until oil is present at disconnected end of line. Attach the oil line at the front of the engine.
All oil lines should be attached.
Pour oil into center passage. Gravity will allow the oil to fill the engine’s internal passages. 2x more fills to the top after the 1st round gravity bleeds for a minute or 2.
[A quicker way to move oil into the engine’s internal passages is to apply low pressure air to filter adapter and push oil into loop line. Be sure to wear appropriate safety gear and use low pressure. The oil can blow out at you around the rubber tip of the air gun.
Prevent engine from starting, then crank engine until pressure gauge shows oil pressure or until oil indicator light on dash goes out.]
Check for leaks.
The above addresses only the oiling system; refer to factory manual for additional first-start precautions that may be necessary. Once Started, check for leaks while allowing engine to come up to operating temperature. Check all gauges frequently.
After engine reaches operating temperature, bleed air from cooling system as necessary per factory service manual.
Check oil level.
Allow engine to run for approximately 30 min. in neutral varying rpms, then turn off. allow the engine to cool, then change oil and filter.
For the first 500 miles
of driving, allow engine extra time to warm up before driving the car and do not exceed 4000rpm.
Change oil and filter at 500 miles.
From 500 to 2000 miles,
gradually increase engine rpm and load to the point of occasionally bringing the engine rpm to 7000 using no more than ¾ throttle.
Check oil level frequently during break-in. During break-in, any engine can consume a noticeable quantity of oil.
Failure to follow break-in instructions does not necessarily cause immediate engine failure. BUT we have found it will greatly shorten the life of many of the components.
For example, we have seen oil control rings loose ½ their life from lack of break-in. Consider your hard earned money and time when deciding a break-in procedure.
These instructions are not intended to supersede any other engine builder’s recommendations. They should have been chosen for their skill and knowledge. If they cannot provide you with the technical support you require, consider that the next time you look for an engine builder.
Oil Recommendations:
Manufacturer: any quality brand of oil is OK except Pennzoil. I dislike this one brand for buildup reasons.
Startup Oil Weight: For startup use a dead dinosaur(mineral based) oil in a 0w20 through 10w30.
Post Startup: For non-turbo engines we like thin oils like the 0w20-to-10w30 for all applications where the oil temp is kept below 220*F. Virtually all stock or near stock applications will not have an issue with oil temp. A well designed race car should be able to run these thinner oils. We have run 0w16 in full race circuit cars with great engine life.
Copyright: Pineapple Racing 2009-2016
________________________________
Stu A
80GS
AZ
Last edited by 7aull; 06-26-19 at 09:04 AM. Reason: misspelling
The following users liked this post:
Frogman (06-26-19)
06-26-19, 12:21 AM
#10
Senior Newbie Member
BREAK IN-
This courtesy of Rob Gold of Pineappleracing.com
He supervised my 12A build and has been in the rotary rebuild biz since the last century. Literally. I found the PRELUBE notes especially revealing
______________
Pineapple Racing
Recommended Engine Break-in Procedure
First Start:
Pre-lube the engine before starting. To pre-lube engine:
Leave oil line loop at front cover unattached with catch pan under it.
Repeatedly fill oil adapter outer cavity with oil and allow oil to gravity feed into loop oil line until oil is present at disconnected end of line. Attach the oil line at the front of the engine.
All oil lines should be attached.
Pour oil into center passage. Gravity will allow the oil to fill the engine’s internal passages. 2x more fills to the top after the 1st round gravity bleeds for a minute or 2.
[A quicker way to move oil into the engine’s internal passages is to apply low pressure air to filter adapter and push oil into loop line. Be sure to wear appropriate safety gear and use low pressure. The oil can blow out at you around the rubber tip of the air gun.
Prevent engine from starting, then crank engine until pressure gauge shows oil pressure or until oil indicator light on dash goes out.]
Check for leaks.
The above addresses only the oiling system; refer to factory manual for additional first-start precautions that may be necessary. Once Started, check for leaks while allowing engine to come up to operating temperature. Check all gauges frequently.
After engine reaches operating temperature, bleed air from cooling system as necessary per factory service manual.
Check oil level.
Allow engine to run for approximately 30 min. in neutral varying rpms, then turn off. allow the engine to cool, then change oil and filter.
For the first 500 miles
of driving, allow engine extra time to warm up before driving the car and do not exceed 4000rpm.
Change oil and filter at 500 miles.
From 500 to 2000 miles,
gradually increase engine rpm and load to the point of occasionally bringing the engine rpm to 7000 using no more than ¾ throttle.
Check oil level frequently during break-in. During break-in, any engine can consume a noticeable quantity of oil.
Failure to follow break-in instructions does not necessarily cause immediate engine failure. BUT we have found it will greatly shorten the life of many of the components.
For example, we have seen oil control rings loose ½ their life from lack of break-in. Consider your hard earned money and time when deciding a break-in procedure.
These instructions are not intended to supersede any other engine builder’s recommendations. They should have been chosen for their skill and knowledge. If they cannot provide you with the technical support you require, consider that the next time you look for an engine builder.
Oil Recommendations:
Manufacturer: any quality brand of oil is OK except Pennzoil. I dislike this one brand for buildup reasons.
Startup Oil Weight: For startup use a dead dinosaur(mineral based) oil in a 0w20 through 10w30.
Post Startup: For non-turbo engines we like thin oils like the 0w20-to-10w30 for all applications where the oil temp is kept below 220*F. Virtually all stock or near stock applications will not have an issue with oil temp. A well designed race car should be able to run these thinner oils. We have run 0w16 in full race circuit cars with great engine life.
Copyright: Pineapple Racing 2009-2016
________________________________
Stu A
80GS
AZ
This courtesy of Rob Gold of Pineappleracing.com
He supervised my 12A build and has been in the rotary rebuild biz since the last century. Literally. I found the PRELUBE notes especially revealing
______________
Pineapple Racing
Recommended Engine Break-in Procedure
First Start:
Pre-lube the engine before starting. To pre-lube engine:
Leave oil line loop at front cover unattached with catch pan under it.
Repeatedly fill oil adapter outer cavity with oil and allow oil to gravity feed into loop oil line until oil is present at disconnected end of line. Attach the oil line at the front of the engine.
All oil lines should be attached.
Pour oil into center passage. Gravity will allow the oil to fill the engine’s internal passages. 2x more fills to the top after the 1st round gravity bleeds for a minute or 2.
[A quicker way to move oil into the engine’s internal passages is to apply low pressure air to filter adapter and push oil into loop line. Be sure to wear appropriate safety gear and use low pressure. The oil can blow out at you around the rubber tip of the air gun.
Prevent engine from starting, then crank engine until pressure gauge shows oil pressure or until oil indicator light on dash goes out.]
Check for leaks.
The above addresses only the oiling system; refer to factory manual for additional first-start precautions that may be necessary. Once Started, check for leaks while allowing engine to come up to operating temperature. Check all gauges frequently.
After engine reaches operating temperature, bleed air from cooling system as necessary per factory service manual.
Check oil level.
Allow engine to run for approximately 30 min. in neutral varying rpms, then turn off. allow the engine to cool, then change oil and filter.
For the first 500 miles
of driving, allow engine extra time to warm up before driving the car and do not exceed 4000rpm.
Change oil and filter at 500 miles.
From 500 to 2000 miles,
gradually increase engine rpm and load to the point of occasionally bringing the engine rpm to 7000 using no more than ¾ throttle.
Check oil level frequently during break-in. During break-in, any engine can consume a noticeable quantity of oil.
Failure to follow break-in instructions does not necessarily cause immediate engine failure. BUT we have found it will greatly shorten the life of many of the components.
For example, we have seen oil control rings loose ½ their life from lack of break-in. Consider your hard earned money and time when deciding a break-in procedure.
These instructions are not intended to supersede any other engine builder’s recommendations. They should have been chosen for their skill and knowledge. If they cannot provide you with the technical support you require, consider that the next time you look for an engine builder.
Oil Recommendations:
Manufacturer: any quality brand of oil is OK except Pennzoil. I dislike this one brand for buildup reasons.
Startup Oil Weight: For startup use a dead dinosaur(mineral based) oil in a 0w20 through 10w30.
Post Startup: For non-turbo engines we like thin oils like the 0w20-to-10w30 for all applications where the oil temp is kept below 220*F. Virtually all stock or near stock applications will not have an issue with oil temp. A well designed race car should be able to run these thinner oils. We have run 0w16 in full race circuit cars with great engine life.
Copyright: Pineapple Racing 2009-2016
________________________________
Stu A
80GS
AZ
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