Roll Cage
Competition Engineering has the main hoop, then add the universal strut kit to finish it up. Takes a bit of cutting and welding to get it in. I've heard Autopower makes a bolt-in, have not seen it though.
Originally Posted by ccauley
I'm looking for a cage for my 85 GSL. Anybody have any recommendations on what and from who?
Are you looking for a full cage built or a bolt in roll bar?
Either way we can help you. Send me a PM if you are interested.
-billy
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I want a roll cage. I like that 6point cage from ioport racing. However, is their a cheaper alternitive???? I am a University student lol. I am into rally racing so a i need a 6-point.
I've got the Autopower 6pt bolt in cage. I'm 5'7" and it was a little close with the stock seats on the side. with the new raceseats it helped the clearance alot.
also a smaller steering wheel will help as the stocker runs close to the front bars.


also a smaller steering wheel will help as the stocker runs close to the front bars.


31rx7 hit it right on the head - why do you want a roll cage? Since this is not posted in the "race" section it sounds like it is going into a street car. Baaaaad decision.
I have an Autopower main hoop that was used as a basis for welding the rest of the cage in for my 1st gen EP car. OK setup, but as in the famous quote about Juan Pablo Montoya - "I am more Stocky than Jockey!" The bars above the doors and down the "A" pillars definitely take up valuable space. My helmet has blue paint spots all over the left side from making regular contact. My car is COMPLETELY stripped, with a Kirkey aluminum seat mounted directly to the floor to maximize headroom, and fresh FIA (not SFI - they stretch too much!) five point belts. In addition I never drive the car without additional padding, and a Snell certified helmet. Why is that important? I had a car with a full cage that was street legal with the idea that I could run it when instructing at the track, at track days, and still make fun runs on week-ends. Every time I got in that car without a helmet on I was sure I wasn't going to live to get back out! Ask anyone of us that has had an on-track incident how much movement we experienced even with our 5-point belts cinched down tight. On the road, that would almost certainly cause your head to hit one of the cage bars, and you would probably be killed or permanently incapacitated by even a minor impact. I'm sure I looked like a nutjob driving home on the freeway from a club meet with a full face helmet on, but I just couldn't face the prospect of freeway speeds staring at the bar over the windshield knowing it would end my freaking life. I actually had to remove that cage in order to sell the car, because I didn't feel good about sending someone weaving away down the road with it, and everyone who sat in it felt the same way I did. Do yourself a big favor, and DON'T CONSIDER PUTTING A FULL CAGE IN A STREET CAR.
I have an Autopower main hoop that was used as a basis for welding the rest of the cage in for my 1st gen EP car. OK setup, but as in the famous quote about Juan Pablo Montoya - "I am more Stocky than Jockey!" The bars above the doors and down the "A" pillars definitely take up valuable space. My helmet has blue paint spots all over the left side from making regular contact. My car is COMPLETELY stripped, with a Kirkey aluminum seat mounted directly to the floor to maximize headroom, and fresh FIA (not SFI - they stretch too much!) five point belts. In addition I never drive the car without additional padding, and a Snell certified helmet. Why is that important? I had a car with a full cage that was street legal with the idea that I could run it when instructing at the track, at track days, and still make fun runs on week-ends. Every time I got in that car without a helmet on I was sure I wasn't going to live to get back out! Ask anyone of us that has had an on-track incident how much movement we experienced even with our 5-point belts cinched down tight. On the road, that would almost certainly cause your head to hit one of the cage bars, and you would probably be killed or permanently incapacitated by even a minor impact. I'm sure I looked like a nutjob driving home on the freeway from a club meet with a full face helmet on, but I just couldn't face the prospect of freeway speeds staring at the bar over the windshield knowing it would end my freaking life. I actually had to remove that cage in order to sell the car, because I didn't feel good about sending someone weaving away down the road with it, and everyone who sat in it felt the same way I did. Do yourself a big favor, and DON'T CONSIDER PUTTING A FULL CAGE IN A STREET CAR.
My bolt in helped. I can jack up one end and the doors open just fine. I can jack up one corner and very little flex.
I can see where it can flex more than a welded one but its a hell of alot stiffer than no cage.
I can see where it can flex more than a welded one but its a hell of alot stiffer than no cage.
The point being that a cage in most street cars is ill advised due to the reasons boswoj mentioned, and the advantages for street use are marginal. Even though it may provide additional rigidity to the structure - to what degree is debatable - how this translates to benefits for street driving are beyond me.
Now, if you are street RACING or otherwise doing things on the street that endanger yourself and others, there might be benefit, but that is an entirely different discussion.
Also, I would consider putting a roll bar (not cage) in my street car if I used it for track days.
By the way, the cage in Max7's car looks like the Safety Devices cage in my old ITA car.
Now, if you are street RACING or otherwise doing things on the street that endanger yourself and others, there might be benefit, but that is an entirely different discussion.
Also, I would consider putting a roll bar (not cage) in my street car if I used it for track days.
By the way, the cage in Max7's car looks like the Safety Devices cage in my old ITA car.
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 920
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From: exit 8 in Manchester, NH
I too have been thinking about one (just main hoop and back), I do autoX and all in the 7 and as of recent the seat rails have loosened allowing the seat to rock and the seat belt stopped locking when it should so I will be putting a new seat and harness in the car anyway and wasn't sure weither it is most advisable to use a harness bar or a roll bar w/ harness support. I feel at this point a roll bar is the best choice.
What do you guys think tho? Is it more wise to use at least a roll bar? I just have been getting into racing now and haven't been too many times yet but that will change come spring.
Note: the car is a street driven car also.
edit: How are the seats that ioport sells?
What do you guys think tho? Is it more wise to use at least a roll bar? I just have been getting into racing now and haven't been too many times yet but that will change come spring.
Note: the car is a street driven car also.
edit: How are the seats that ioport sells?



Pretty simple concept, you'll get a heavy box of pipes, brakets and mounting plates. Just gotts cut the plates and pipes to size, make everything LEVEL!!!!! Tack it, then when your satisfied, weld it in for the final product, paint it, whatever you want.
Originally Posted by Max7


did you order your roll bar directly from autopower?



