I was planning on ordering directly for just the roll bar, but ended up finding the whole cage cheaper off eBay.

 

Does the metal come pre bent, and how much are the kits? Can I still drive the Car without a helmet? ( weld in kits) Thanks

 

Is that a daily driver? With the interior, I'm gonna assume yes, because who races with a full interior?

If you were in a wreck on the street, is there any possible way that your head could hit the bars that run along the top of the doors? (Provided adequate restraint, either stock seatbelts or 5/6 point harness.)

Ive got no interest in cracking my mellon open, nor do I want to drive around all day with a helmet on.

Also, what's up with the missing door bars?

 

The cage comes prebent ready to bolt in. could be a DD, but its a weekend car. Full interior.
I'm short enough my head passes below the bar however everything is padded.
the door bars are removable and only installed for track days.

 

I have an AUTOPOWER 4 point roll bar in my 82. And I feel it has helped to stiffen the car...Although the only problem is im 6'3 and the bar effects the seat travel. I need the seat as far back as possible. So if anyone wants it..ill sell it. I can take it out and ship it! Im in NC. Complete with hardware and mounting plates....Carl

 

CAmocar - I can't send you any messages. Clear out your mailbox!!!! or email me zfrederick@***.net aka - racintang

 

I will highly reccommend a roll cage for the 1stgen. It was the only thing that saved my life, or atleast my legs. I t-boned a buick at 60mph in 80', the rocker panels split away from the car, the dash broke in half, the transmission came through the tunnel, the floorboards started to bend up towards the dash. I had my 5points on, the only thing i made contact with was the steering wheel. Oh and the rearebd bent into a u shape from the driveshaft hitting so hard. If you have a cage built, not a autopower junk, then the bars will be far enough away to not hit your head, plus with offset hole padding it brings the saftey level up. I had it custom made by kirk racing, they did a hell of job for $1k.

 

I suggest following the rules of your racing class to the "T". I also suggest developing a full understanding of the compromises to be made between a race car and street car.

With regard to weld-in versus bolt in cage; I would have prefered a weld in but SRX7 rules require autopower bolt in on the FB, now my lawless FD street/track car has a Kirk bar as a compromise between duties. Pad them all.

 

Intresting. I was thinking of building my own custom cage, based on other rx-7 rally car cages, but I can't figure out how to bend the metal, i don't have teh $$$ for a bender.

 

I believe both Nasa and the SCCA no longer allow bolt in cages. If you ever wanted to go competion you'd have to weld in the footers.

My brother and I have two cars. One has a modified Autopower (welded, door bars, front bars, cross bar) the other has a fully custom cage from 7s only. the 7s only cage is vastly stiffer and I feel much safer than the autopower.

It was also custom and cost a lot more.

I would not feel safe in a car with a cage without a helmet. If your head hit that bar with any velocity, well, we've all heard about stories of people getting beaten in the head with a "blunt object"

Scott

 

W.
O.
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I'd actually like to see pictures of this wreck, if you wouldn't mind.

I'm glad you're okay after that ordeal.

 

Roll Bar Pads?

 

A friend took some pics of the car, i will see if i can get a hold of them. You wouldn't beleave i walked away with only 13 stiches, a broken nose, and huge 5point harness bruises. You would be foul not have cage in a 1st gen, those cars don't take well to front impacts. The only thing every has mentioned is the roll cage hitting you in the head. If you have real custom cage made you should have atleast 3inches of clearance from the bar(i'm 5'10) so if you wreck your car that bad that you hit.....well you had no chance if didn't have the cage. If anything you are going eat the steering wheel w/ your face, i bent that thing in half, it was the stock 4 spoke wheel, and i hit it right at the spoke. face bashing for the win

 

The primary reason that a roll cage is mandated for racing is for safety any handling advantage is coincidence. A properly installed roll cage is going to be a huge improvement in any car road or race in the event of a wreck. If your body can hit the bar it was poorly designed or installed, the main hoop should be designed to sit far enough behind your head to never be an obstruction, the front hoop needs to be completely against the top if the windshield as the front uprights should be against the A pillar. For this reason a roll cage should be built with your seating position in mind.

I have been present at rallies and races when several drivers literally survived only because the cage took the impact that would have crushed the driver/co-driver.

That said, the more places the cage attaches to the body the stronger it is, which is why the best built units are seem welded to the roof, A pillar, B pillar, floor and anywhere else it can come close enough. A bolted in cage is only attached at 4,6 or maybe 8 points a serious rally cage will have 15 or more attachment points thereby making the car inherently stronger everywhere not just at floor level.

I had a 6 point aluminum cage in my RX3 which was quite well designed but as the rules have developed these are no longer legal. My next cage will be built around the race seat I install and will be welded in and seem welded to the car, there is no better cage today.

Chrome Moly is unnecessary for street/road race cars as we dont need a cage which will return to its original shape after impact, once our cars take a hit they are done for good, so the risk involved in using such expensive metal which is subject to breaking after welding is simply not worth it.

 

I don't see how a welded cage with padded bars and a 5/6 point harness could possibly be less safe than a 20+ year old stock seat belt. If you PROPERLY pad your bars (no, pipe insulation from the hardware store is not proper) they would do less damage than hitting your head on the window, b-pillar, steering wheel, etc.

And nobody should have paint scuffs on their helmet from a roll cage. That implies you have not put padding on your bars, which means you don't know much more than anybody else on the subject.

 

As Rusty just said, You must use padding that is available for this purpose from most speed shops. Every surface you can possibly come in touch with should be covered, its easy and cheap.

 

he has a good point. Put how do i bend the metal??? I have no metal bender and I am poor. And I need a cage

 

I purchased a tube bender off eBay for just $150....crushes exhaust but works fine for Roll Cage materials (thicker wall)

 

intresting. i trust that is USD??

 

Yeah, it works on numerous size tubing also from 1/2 up to 3", just a frame around a hydraulic jack and a set of cast bends to each size.

 

If you have those traveling tool sales that come through your area, they often have benders for 90-150. Also check Harbor Freight Tools, I'm sure they have it in thier online catalogue



I have my entire roll bar padded. Not only is it functional, I think I looks pretty good. My local speed shop sells it for 2.89 per 3' stick. It comes in a variety of colors, including some neons. Jegs also carries it for 3 bucks a stick.

 

Intresting thanks. I don't have traveling sales men whare I live. I will check out Fregiht Harbour tools though

 

Anyone have the Kirk roll bar? Any pics? Likes/dislikes?

 

I had the kirk roll bar, then had them add the front half. The roll bar fit very very nice. I wasn't able to fit my fingers between the roof and the bar. Can't beat it for the the money.

 

I have an autopower rollbar... It did everything I expected. Fit well, stiffened things up a bit, and gave me a nice mounting point for my harnesses... The only downsides to it were that you lost the use of your passenger storage bin, and lost a lot of leg room (driver's side not so bad, passenger side was horrible)... The leg room issue is the biggest reason why I'm going to a full custom job. Rear interior has been removed, and the main hoop is being built off the brace that runs where the storage bins used to be... Pics will be up when it's done...

Dan