ReSpeed Crossmember and Rack Kit
08-08-07, 10:58 AM
#1
ReSpeed Crossmember and Rack Kit
Well it has been a long road. We went through so many versions and designs its not even funny. The final design has been released.
We ended up with a rack that is sure to make everyone happy. This system is front steer with a Ford "Fox" chassis steering rack. 20:1 stock and 15:1 quick ratios. Power racks are available. There is not allot of clearance around the engine and rack. So power rack guys will be responsible for mounting power steering pumps and such.
You can start with the crossmember and upgrade to the rack kit at a later date as well.
Crossmember Highlights:
* Adjustable lower control arm pivot points
* Urethane lower "A" arm bushings
* Urethane engine mounting. (Aluminum engine mounting option)
* 99% bolt in. Mounts without modification to the chassis.
* Designed to fit both 12A and 13B engines.
* Lighter than the stock
Full Kit Highlights:
* Convert suspension to a lower "A" arm setup
* Over 36 forms of suspension adjustment
* Flaming River brand steering u joints
* Does not hinder the operation of the collapsibility of the stock steering shaft
* Added angle designed into the lower steering linkage for 2 more points of collapsibility.
* Available quick ratio rack that will transform the vehicle into a pleasure to drive.
* Uses stock outer tie rods (Rod End Tie Rod Kit Option).
Here is the link to the listings in our catalog
-billy
We ended up with a rack that is sure to make everyone happy. This system is front steer with a Ford "Fox" chassis steering rack. 20:1 stock and 15:1 quick ratios. Power racks are available. There is not allot of clearance around the engine and rack. So power rack guys will be responsible for mounting power steering pumps and such.
You can start with the crossmember and upgrade to the rack kit at a later date as well.
Crossmember Highlights:
* Adjustable lower control arm pivot points
* Urethane lower "A" arm bushings
* Urethane engine mounting. (Aluminum engine mounting option)
* 99% bolt in. Mounts without modification to the chassis.
* Designed to fit both 12A and 13B engines.
* Lighter than the stock
Full Kit Highlights:
* Convert suspension to a lower "A" arm setup
* Over 36 forms of suspension adjustment
* Flaming River brand steering u joints
* Does not hinder the operation of the collapsibility of the stock steering shaft
* Added angle designed into the lower steering linkage for 2 more points of collapsibility.
* Available quick ratio rack that will transform the vehicle into a pleasure to drive.
* Uses stock outer tie rods (Rod End Tie Rod Kit Option).
Here is the link to the listings in our catalog
-billy
08-08-07, 12:04 PM
#5
That is absolutely amazing 
One question:
I currently have a 12a-powered 84GS. Let's say I bought and installed the full kit and absolutely loved it (a distinct possibility). Then Let's say that in two years time I decided to drop a 13b into my car. Is that front mount adjustable between the 84-85 12a front cover mounting location and the 84-85 GSL-SE 13b front cover mounting location? (which of course includes later 13b engines with the GSL-SE front cover).
And out of curiosity, does anyone know the ratio of the stock rack? I'd like to know where the stock rack falls compared to the 20:1 and 15:1 ratios available here.
Jon
One question:
I currently have a 12a-powered 84GS. Let's say I bought and installed the full kit and absolutely loved it (a distinct possibility). Then Let's say that in two years time I decided to drop a 13b into my car. Is that front mount adjustable between the 84-85 12a front cover mounting location and the 84-85 GSL-SE 13b front cover mounting location? (which of course includes later 13b engines with the GSL-SE front cover).
And out of curiosity, does anyone know the ratio of the stock rack? I'd like to know where the stock rack falls compared to the 20:1 and 15:1 ratios available here.
Jon
08-08-07, 12:11 PM
#7
Yes, we replace the lower half of the internal steering with a new manufactured part. This involved cutting one thin strip of metal and using a drill bit to make sure a few holes line up. This is all done outside the car before the steering shaft is bolted back in.
That is absolutely amazing
One question:
I currently have a 12a-powered 84GS. Let's say I bought and installed the full kit and absolutely loved it (a distinct possibility). Then Let's say that in two years time I decided to drop a 13b into my car. Is that front mount adjustable between the 84-85 12a front cover mounting location and the 84-85 GSL-SE 13b front cover mounting location? (which of course includes later 13b engines with the GSL-SE front cover).
And out of curiosity, does anyone know the ratio of the stock rack? I'd like to know where the stock rack falls compared to the 20:1 and 15:1 ratios available here.
Jon
One question:
I currently have a 12a-powered 84GS. Let's say I bought and installed the full kit and absolutely loved it (a distinct possibility). Then Let's say that in two years time I decided to drop a 13b into my car. Is that front mount adjustable between the 84-85 12a front cover mounting location and the 84-85 GSL-SE 13b front cover mounting location? (which of course includes later 13b engines with the GSL-SE front cover).
And out of curiosity, does anyone know the ratio of the stock rack? I'd like to know where the stock rack falls compared to the 20:1 and 15:1 ratios available here.
Jon
Yes the engine mount fits ALL 12A and 13B engines with front mount front cover. BTW, you can re-use your 12A front cover on your new 13B. You do not need a GSL-SE specific part.
Stock ratio depends on what manual you look in. 20:1 seems to be the consensus among a most of them.
-billy
Last edited by Re-Speed.com; 08-08-07 at 12:17 PM.
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08-08-07, 12:25 PM
#9
Alright, so the next question is, who's going to be the lucky one that makes history with the first thread on a ReSpeed rack install? 
(my money manager insists that unfortunately this time it won't be me... but it has been officially added to "The List")
Jon
(my money manager insists that unfortunately this time it won't be me... but it has been officially added to "The List")
Jon
08-08-07, 01:03 PM
#11
my fb is older than me
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omg...you make me giddy like a little girl.
now i gotta save $1k 13b rebuild kit or cross member and r&p
now i gotta save $1k 13b rebuild kit or cross member and r&p
Last edited by woodonastick; 08-08-07 at 01:12 PM.
08-08-07, 01:09 PM
#12
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HOLY CRAP! Now I have to decide whether to do the brake kit, or steering kit first.
Flaming River racks are high quality, have used several of them for street and race cars over the years.
Great work Billy.
Flaming River racks are high quality, have used several of them for street and race cars over the years.
Great work Billy.
08-08-07, 01:20 PM
#13
I need to finish my FI stuff which should be this week sometime ... So maybe in a couple of weeks or a month at the latest I'll have one ... i need to drop it in the new Chassis So whenever that comes around, I'll be in there, so I might be one of the first to have it but not probably not the first to install it 
08-08-07, 01:45 PM
#16
Head over to www.howstuffworks.com and have a look at the steering article. The difference between "Recirculating Ball" and "Rack and Pinion" is explained there in technical detail.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/steering1.htm
The effect is that a Recirculating Ball steering system will always be somewhat "looser" than a Rack and Pinion system because in order for the worm gear to move, there has to be some play in it. Remove all the play and the gear can't move. This is what makes for the 2" of free play in your wheel at the centre of steering. The old steering boxes on our cars were loose when they came from the factory, but they get progressively worse over time. With all first gens being over 20 years old now, and steering boxes costing more than this entire rack conversion kit (not counting the rest of your steering linkage which you'd have to replace for even more $$), it makes sense to make the upgrade.
We have no aftermarket steering options, or at least we didn't until now. The 15:1 rack offers a quicker ratio which means you have to turn the steering wheel less in order to get the same effect from your wheels. Rack and Pinion doesn't have the loose spot in the middle and is very accurate, so *any* movement of the steering wheel translates directly into movement of the wheels.
PLUS, on the bonus side, with all the different areas of adjustment this crossmember/rack has, you have the ability to more finely adjust your suspension in the front, which is a great plus for racers.
Jon
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/steering1.htm
The effect is that a Recirculating Ball steering system will always be somewhat "looser" than a Rack and Pinion system because in order for the worm gear to move, there has to be some play in it. Remove all the play and the gear can't move. This is what makes for the 2" of free play in your wheel at the centre of steering. The old steering boxes on our cars were loose when they came from the factory, but they get progressively worse over time. With all first gens being over 20 years old now, and steering boxes costing more than this entire rack conversion kit (not counting the rest of your steering linkage which you'd have to replace for even more $$), it makes sense to make the upgrade.
We have no aftermarket steering options, or at least we didn't until now. The 15:1 rack offers a quicker ratio which means you have to turn the steering wheel less in order to get the same effect from your wheels. Rack and Pinion doesn't have the loose spot in the middle and is very accurate, so *any* movement of the steering wheel translates directly into movement of the wheels.
PLUS, on the bonus side, with all the different areas of adjustment this crossmember/rack has, you have the ability to more finely adjust your suspension in the front, which is a great plus for racers.
Jon
Last edited by vipernicus42; 08-08-07 at 01:52 PM.
08-08-07, 01:47 PM
#17
If you carefully read the descriptions on the ReSpeed site you'll find that the cost of an entire conversion is a Type II kit + one of the available racks.
So the total cost depends on which of the two racks (the 20:1 or the 15:1) you buy. That's why they're listed seperate because you can also get appropriate racks from local sources in some cases and save money, though with the good stuff I've heard about Flaming River racks, I'd just grab the ones from ReSpeed.
Edit: If I understand correctly, Kit 1 just replaces the crossmember, but you keep your stock Steering and suspension setup. This is for people who want to do it in stages or can't afford it all at once. Kit II comes with all the bits you need to convert to front steer and add the rack. Then you buy the rack.
Of course that then leaves the question :
If you buy a Type I Kit with just the crossmember, how much does the upgrade cost to get all the stuff from the Type II kit minus the crossmember you already bought? (my guess is take the price of the Type 2 - price of the Type 1 = Price of extra bits to go from one to two)
Jon
So the total cost depends on which of the two racks (the 20:1 or the 15:1) you buy. That's why they're listed seperate because you can also get appropriate racks from local sources in some cases and save money, though with the good stuff I've heard about Flaming River racks, I'd just grab the ones from ReSpeed.
Edit: If I understand correctly, Kit 1 just replaces the crossmember, but you keep your stock Steering and suspension setup. This is for people who want to do it in stages or can't afford it all at once. Kit II comes with all the bits you need to convert to front steer and add the rack. Then you buy the rack.
Of course that then leaves the question :
If you buy a Type I Kit with just the crossmember, how much does the upgrade cost to get all the stuff from the Type II kit minus the crossmember you already bought? (my guess is take the price of the Type 2 - price of the Type 1 = Price of extra bits to go from one to two)
Jon
08-08-07, 01:50 PM
#18
Yea flaming river has been around quite a while and is supposed to be really good, I'd probably go with one of those racks as well, already spending a good chunk of change for a great upgrade, might as well take it all the way. Definatly going for that 15:1 rack too...
Oh and Jon, if i can swing buying this on my next check I'll be sure to do a detailed thread about it!
Oh and Jon, if i can swing buying this on my next check I'll be sure to do a detailed thread about it!
08-08-07, 01:58 PM
#19
bragging rights
On a more serious note, the key to the crossmember is adjustable lower control arm points for camber and roll center. The full kits has the same benefits along with tight, responsive steering. Plus many adjustment locations for the front and rear pickup points adds a new era in SA and FB front suspension geometry.
-billy
08-08-07, 01:58 PM
#20
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one more question for alingment of this product will the avarage joe at pepboys will know how to align this or will more info will come with kit to bring this to such alignment shops.
Great Work Billy
08-08-07, 02:06 PM
#22
If the person doing the alignment understands a) Caster b) the fact that the caster is now set with the lower "A" arms rather than the factory "stay rods" then he should be ok.
To be honest, the instructions will explain how to remove key parts while leaving the "stay rods" in place temporarily. You will then adjust the caster adjustment of the rear arm until the holes line up properly. With doing it this way your caster should be very close to where it was to begin with.
-billy
08-08-07, 02:28 PM
#24
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bragging rights
On a more serious note, the key to the crossmember is adjustable lower control arm points for camber and roll center. The full kits has the same benefits along with tight, responsive steering. Plus many adjustment locations for the front and rear pickup points adds a new era in SA and FB front suspension geometry.
-billy
On a more serious note, the key to the crossmember is adjustable lower control arm points for camber and roll center. The full kits has the same benefits along with tight, responsive steering. Plus many adjustment locations for the front and rear pickup points adds a new era in SA and FB front suspension geometry.
-billy