Well it has been a long road. We went through so many versions and designs its not even funny. The final design has been released.

We ended up with a rack that is sure to make everyone happy. This system is front steer with a Ford "Fox" chassis steering rack. 20:1 stock and 15:1 quick ratios. Power racks are available. There is not allot of clearance around the engine and rack. So power rack guys will be responsible for mounting power steering pumps and such.

You can start with the crossmember and upgrade to the rack kit at a later date as well.

Crossmember Highlights:

* Adjustable lower control arm pivot points
* Urethane lower "A" arm bushings
* Urethane engine mounting. (Aluminum engine mounting option)
* 99% bolt in. Mounts without modification to the chassis.
* Designed to fit both 12A and 13B engines.
* Lighter than the stock

Full Kit Highlights:

* Convert suspension to a lower "A" arm setup
* Over 36 forms of suspension adjustment
* Flaming River brand steering u joints
* Does not hinder the operation of the collapsibility of the stock steering shaft
* Added angle designed into the lower steering linkage for 2 more points of collapsibility.
* Available quick ratio rack that will transform the vehicle into a pleasure to drive.
* Uses stock outer tie rods (Rod End Tie Rod Kit Option).

Here is the link to the listings in our catalog


-billy

Thats a quality piece, and I bet it's gonna be a HOT seller. You should send me one for free since I did up the Photoshop of the RX-7 on your site.

lol @ ^

oh sweet jesus the day has finally arrived!

I know where my next paycheck is going

Out of curiousity, why "99% bolt in" what's involved in the other 1%? the steering column?

That is absolutely amazing

One question:

I currently have a 12a-powered 84GS. Let's say I bought and installed the full kit and absolutely loved it (a distinct possibility). Then Let's say that in two years time I decided to drop a 13b into my car. Is that front mount adjustable between the 84-85 12a front cover mounting location and the 84-85 GSL-SE 13b front cover mounting location? (which of course includes later 13b engines with the GSL-SE front cover).

And out of curiosity, does anyone know the ratio of the stock rack? I'd like to know where the stock rack falls compared to the 20:1 and 15:1 ratios available here.

Jon

Nice, and actually at about 1/2 the price of what I was expecting. So the Stage 2 includes the rack correct? Also how much of an actualy weight saving is it over the stock piece out of curiosity?

Yes, we replace the lower half of the internal steering with a new manufactured part. This involved cutting one thin strip of metal and using a drill bit to make sure a few holes line up. This is all done outside the car before the steering shaft is bolted back in.




Yes the engine mount fits ALL 12A and 13B engines with front mount front cover. BTW, you can re-use your 12A front cover on your new 13B. You do not need a GSL-SE specific part.

Stock ratio depends on what manual you look in. 20:1 seems to be the consensus among a most of them.


The rack is sold separately. I will need to get back to you on that. I need to weigh some stock stuff.



-billy

according to his site it includes everything but the rack and stock lower control arms and knucle arms... so no

Alright, so the next question is, who's going to be the lucky one that makes history with the first thread on a ReSpeed rack install?

(my money manager insists that unfortunately this time it won't be me... but it has been officially added to "The List")

Jon

Nice looking product.

omg...you make me giddy like a little girl.

now i gotta save $1k 13b rebuild kit or cross member and r&p

HOLY CRAP! Now I have to decide whether to do the brake kit, or steering kit first.
Flaming River racks are high quality, have used several of them for street and race cars over the years.

Great work Billy.

I need to finish my FI stuff which should be this week sometime ... So maybe in a couple of weeks or a month at the latest I'll have one ... i need to drop it in the new Chassis So whenever that comes around, I'll be in there, so I might be one of the first to have it but not probably not the first to install it

I know dumb question, but what all advantages is this gonna give me?

how much is the complete system including rack ? and what are the differences between kit 1 and kit 2

Head over to www.howstuffworks.com and have a look at the steering article. The difference between "Recirculating Ball" and "Rack and Pinion" is explained there in technical detail.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/steering1.htm


The effect is that a Recirculating Ball steering system will always be somewhat "looser" than a Rack and Pinion system because in order for the worm gear to move, there has to be some play in it. Remove all the play and the gear can't move. This is what makes for the 2" of free play in your wheel at the centre of steering. The old steering boxes on our cars were loose when they came from the factory, but they get progressively worse over time. With all first gens being over 20 years old now, and steering boxes costing more than this entire rack conversion kit (not counting the rest of your steering linkage which you'd have to replace for even more $$), it makes sense to make the upgrade.

We have no aftermarket steering options, or at least we didn't until now. The 15:1 rack offers a quicker ratio which means you have to turn the steering wheel less in order to get the same effect from your wheels. Rack and Pinion doesn't have the loose spot in the middle and is very accurate, so *any* movement of the steering wheel translates directly into movement of the wheels.

PLUS, on the bonus side, with all the different areas of adjustment this crossmember/rack has, you have the ability to more finely adjust your suspension in the front, which is a great plus for racers.

Jon

If you carefully read the descriptions on the ReSpeed site you'll find that the cost of an entire conversion is a Type II kit + one of the available racks.

So the total cost depends on which of the two racks (the 20:1 or the 15:1) you buy. That's why they're listed seperate because you can also get appropriate racks from local sources in some cases and save money, though with the good stuff I've heard about Flaming River racks, I'd just grab the ones from ReSpeed.

Edit: If I understand correctly, Kit 1 just replaces the crossmember, but you keep your stock Steering and suspension setup. This is for people who want to do it in stages or can't afford it all at once. Kit II comes with all the bits you need to convert to front steer and add the rack. Then you buy the rack.

Of course that then leaves the question :

If you buy a Type I Kit with just the crossmember, how much does the upgrade cost to get all the stuff from the Type II kit minus the crossmember you already bought? (my guess is take the price of the Type 2 - price of the Type 1 = Price of extra bits to go from one to two)

Jon

Yea flaming river has been around quite a while and is supposed to be really good, I'd probably go with one of those racks as well, already spending a good chunk of change for a great upgrade, might as well take it all the way. Definatly going for that 15:1 rack too...
Oh and Jon, if i can swing buying this on my next check I'll be sure to do a detailed thread about it!

bragging rights

On a more serious note, the key to the crossmember is adjustable lower control arm points for camber and roll center. The full kits has the same benefits along with tight, responsive steering. Plus many adjustment locations for the front and rear pickup points adds a new era in SA and FB front suspension geometry.


-billy

one more question for alingment of this product will the avarage joe at pepboys will know how to align this or will more info will come with kit to bring this to such alignment shops.

Great work Billy!!! Nice to see a real solution to our steering problem.

Now, what autocross class will this bump a 1st gen up to? MOD?

If the person doing the alignment understands a) Caster b) the fact that the caster is now set with the lower "A" arms rather than the factory "stay rods" then he should be ok.

To be honest, the instructions will explain how to remove key parts while leaving the "stay rods" in place temporarily. You will then adjust the caster adjustment of the rear arm until the holes line up properly. With doing it this way your caster should be very close to where it was to begin with.


-billy

Depends on your region and the classification system used by your club.

The MCO would probably bump me up to D class assuming that you start in E like I am. 2nd Gens are in D class here, so that's my guess.

Jon

So the general consensus is this kits bad ***. I have been reading about the second gen swaps a lot but that that was just over my head for now. Damn it, Billy you're just going to have me spend all of my money at your shop. I may as well have my direct deposit go to you!

Hey, that's not a bad idea... I wonder if my bank will DD cross-border, lol.

Jon