demongo

iTrader: (2)

85 FB GSL Manual...

I think my MC needs replacing, but want to avoid anything drastic like a dash removal...seems like it's not necessary but can someone comment?

Any special tools required?

Sorry, basic question, I'm just nervous about getting stuck halfway with this thing, or risking breaking more things than I need to...

Helpful comments appreciated.

LongDuck

Please tell us you're just kidding.

Yeah, it's 2x12mm nuts on threaded shafts attached to the firewall side of the Clutch MC, and they're admittedly hard to reach laying on your back, but that job gets easier if you take out the drivers side seat. It only takes about 5 extra minutes to do so, and makes the job a lot easier. Aside from that, the Clutch MC should come out easily. Consider changing your Clutch Slave Cylinder at the same time, because more likely than not, as soon as your new part is in, the older part will fail.

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

and the flex hose too.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the top nut is not very fun to reach, pulling the dash would not help

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

Also inspect the studs on the MC and ensure the threads go all the way down to the MC body. If not, use some washers.

demongo

iTrader: (2)

Thanks to all for indulging my question and the helpful replies!

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

i had to remove the studs from the old master, and use them on the new master

Benjamin4456

I switched to using bolts for that. The shank on the studs are always too long and I never had the proper studs to start with (or so I think, I'll have to check). It is a pain to get to, but it's not too bad once you get going. I just lay upside down on the seat/footwell; works for me.

demongo

iTrader: (2)

Just thought I’d add an extremely helpful thread from the 1st Gen Archive; this gave me great guidance on the entire process:

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-arch...-slave-873427/

And an additional observation re: bleeding the brand new line--my experience was that the initial manual pumping of the pedal to fill the line can easily take 100+ pumps until fluid starts coming out of the bleeder screw.
I find access to the bleeder screw also to be a significant challenge given the confined space (and my large hands). I found this type of wrench to be particularly useful:

100-position flex-head ratcheting wrench set. Bleeder is 8mm.

demongo

iTrader: (2)

And just to vent: the MC bolts on the inside were satan’s own butthole to remove and replace. Fundamentally my hand was too large to manage this step without significant blood and scarring. And even tightening it with a ratchet was a challenge.

M_D_H

They suck, indeed. Hope that new MC you put in is good quality, haha.

derSchwamm

iTrader: (1)

One note: when installing the top stud nut, I had the best luck using a standard depth 3/8" drive 12mm socket placed onto the nut first, then barely sticking the wrench on the backside so the square was inside the socket just enough to turn but the socket wasn't clipped in. This helps because you need a deep socket to fit over the stud, but most deep sockets are too deep to actually fit. You need just the right length to have enough room to turn the wrench. Once I figured out this trick the job became easier. I highly recommend replacing with bolts though

LongDuck

When I meet rotary fans, that's how I can tell how long they've owned an Rx7 - based on the scars on their right hand, when you shake hands, count the lasting scars and multiply by 7 and you get 'X' years of ownership. On average, you get 7 yrs of use out of a Clutch Master Cylinder which makes the math easier.

HI, how are ya?!?