the_newt

i'm gonna be replacing the m/c and s/c in my clutch hydraulics system tomorrow morning and was reading through the FSM and it says to unbolt it from the cabin side. is it necessary to remove the dash to reach those bolts or is it down by the clutch pedal? and is a flare nut spanner absolutely necessary or will anything else round off the nut?

RotaryMelon

iTrader: (7)

its right by the clutch pedal.. one of them is a PITA to get at, I used a regular ratchet and socket and it worked flawlessly.. just some scratched up knuckles

the_newt

just replaced the m/c and it wasn't that much of a PITA except for the rust on the bottom one. the s/c isn't coming off w/o an impact. so i bled from there and now i have clutch actuation but its in the first inch or so and everything after that is just moving fluid. it works for me but would replacing the slave cylinder move the friction zone into the middle of the pedal travel?

RotaryMelon

iTrader: (7)

probably.. it is always recommended to replace both at the same time.. I know when I did both of my clutch cylinders the friction point was about half or a little closer to me, and i don't see why yours should be any different

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

I've found that 1/4" ratchets and long extensions give a bit more wiggle room than a 3/8" drive set will. To remove the slave, I use 2-12" x 1/4" extensions. This will put the ratchet above the firewall cowl for easier removal.

FBsliderseven

iTrader: (2)

ahh i will be doing this soon.

rotornoob

iTrader: (2)

i also agree that a 1/4" ratchet with a deep socket and an extension make the job a whole lot easier. i would replace the slave too. mine acted 50 times better when i changed them both

the_newt

yeah i was using my 1/4" drive with a shallow socket, swivel head to clear the firewall and hoses, and a 7" + 3" extension. it'll clear the firewall but after it came off the bolt and i punched my wiper arm, i resigned myself to waiting till i have better tools since rounded bolts would really just be the icing on the cake for this week. maybe some PB blaster would help coerce it out. or WD-40. but if anybody in the austin area wants to loan a 3/8" drive set, feel free to do so. oh and my 1/4" set flexes about 35˚ before the torque is applied to the bolt so that may have something to do with it.

also, i think i may not have tightened my bleed nipple as well as i though b/c driving around last night my clutch pedal became fused to the floor and when i checked under the hood, my fluid level had dropped about an inch or so.

'84-12A-GSL

I just did both my Master and Slave today. Both were held by 12mm bolts / nuts. The top Master nut was the only real pain in the ***.

FBsliderseven

iTrader: (2)

did mine too. works great! make sure you adjust the clutch bar going into the master cylinder. i had mine too far in so it wouldnt bleed correctly.

'84-12A-GSL

My new Master cylinder had a different diaphragm in the reservoirs (the black rubber thing that sits under the cap.) And it wouldn't bleed at all. I was stumper, so I put the old cap and diaphragm back on, and it solved it.