Removing.top half of carb with it still in car
03-24-20, 04:13 PM
#1
Removing.top half of carb with it still in car
I’m trying to remove the top half of the carb to clean the seats and all the air bleeds. Is there a way to remove the choke without removing the carb from the car?
im running into trouble and don’t want to mess up the choke mechanisms and springs.
im running into trouble and don’t want to mess up the choke mechanisms and springs.
03-25-20, 07:20 AM
#2
It is best all around to remove the carb from the car first.
Much better for thorough cleaning and rebuild and you won't be working over a couple open intakes that like to gobble parts into the combustion chambers.
This might seem like a lot of trouble at first but once you know how to do it you can have a Nikki off of a completely stock 12A in about 20 minutes.
The trick is to first remove certain intake components that block access to the four attachment nuts that connect the carb to the intake manifold.
Don't even try to work around them, it will just make you frustrated and mad.
You also need to get good at disconnecting and making the various linkage connections, accelerator, choke, cruise and if you have it cold start cables. Do these before you reattach the carb!
Much better for thorough cleaning and rebuild and you won't be working over a couple open intakes that like to gobble parts into the combustion chambers.
This might seem like a lot of trouble at first but once you know how to do it you can have a Nikki off of a completely stock 12A in about 20 minutes.
The trick is to first remove certain intake components that block access to the four attachment nuts that connect the carb to the intake manifold.
Don't even try to work around them, it will just make you frustrated and mad.
You also need to get good at disconnecting and making the various linkage connections, accelerator, choke, cruise and if you have it cold start cables. Do these before you reattach the carb!
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t_g_farrell (03-25-20)
03-25-20, 09:36 AM
#4
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the 81-83 is possible, the 84-85 is not, there is a bracket that is different between them and it makes the 84-85 harder
03-25-20, 10:59 AM
#5
Hey J9, I got a question.
You've been on this forum longer than any of us, March 2001.
Yet while we all have 15 Rotors
you only have 10 Rotors 
Why is it that you, the most helpful person in the RX-7 Community, a legend who will soon qualify for 20 Rotor Status, only have 10 Rotors?
You've been on this forum longer than any of us, March 2001.
Yet while we all have 15 Rotors
you only have 10 Rotors Why is it that you, the most helpful person in the RX-7 Community, a legend who will soon qualify for 20 Rotor Status, only have 10 Rotors?
03-25-20, 12:45 PM
#6
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Hey J9, I got a question.
You've been on this forum longer than any of us, March 2001.
Yet while we all have 15 Rotors you only have 10 Rotors
Why is it that you, the most helpful person in the RX-7 Community, a legend who will soon qualify for 20 Rotor Status, only have 10 Rotors?
You've been on this forum longer than any of us, March 2001.
Yet while we all have 15 Rotors
you only have 10 Rotors Why is it that you, the most helpful person in the RX-7 Community, a legend who will soon qualify for 20 Rotor Status, only have 10 Rotors?
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03-26-20, 09:37 AM
#11
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03-26-20, 09:41 AM
#12
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03-28-20, 08:38 AM
#14
I would check for vacuum leaks if I were you, they are a very common cause of "carb" problems in 1st gens.
It's easy to do, just spray some carb cleaner or starter fluid around all the vacuum hoses connected to the carb (also known as the "Rat's Nest") while the engine is running at a steady rpm (idling is best, but if it won't idle have someone give it enough gas to get a steady rpm). If you hear a change in engine speed you've found a vacuum leak that needs to be fixed before you do anything else.
A very common one is hard to locate because it's down underneath the carb on the passenger's side near the fire wall. Be sure to spray down there as well.
J9, those lazy mods need to validate your Rotor Status, you are due for your 20 Rotor!
It's easy to do, just spray some carb cleaner or starter fluid around all the vacuum hoses connected to the carb (also known as the "Rat's Nest") while the engine is running at a steady rpm (idling is best, but if it won't idle have someone give it enough gas to get a steady rpm). If you hear a change in engine speed you've found a vacuum leak that needs to be fixed before you do anything else.
A very common one is hard to locate because it's down underneath the carb on the passenger's side near the fire wall. Be sure to spray down there as well.
J9, those lazy mods need to validate your Rotor Status, you are due for your 20 Rotor!
03-28-20, 09:54 AM
#15
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04-02-20, 09:06 PM
#16
Took off top of carb cleaned all up and fixed my bent float.
noticed a bunch of small black particles in the holes at the bottom of the float bowels. How do I flush that out, just run some fuel through the inlets?
also fires right up and was able to turn the idle mixture screw down about 2 full turns before stumbling. It’s running better now
noticed a bunch of small black particles in the holes at the bottom of the float bowels. How do I flush that out, just run some fuel through the inlets?
also fires right up and was able to turn the idle mixture screw down about 2 full turns before stumbling. It’s running better now
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