firefox9

I have a 85 rx I bought for 600 after the previous owner rebuilt the carburetor and could not get ir running, it was flooding quite badly. I took the carburetor off and stripped it down sense the rats nest was already gone. While I had it apart I had a diagram up and figured out some parts were missing, like the brass weights, and checkballs were stuck. I am not gonna have much fun finding those parts nor even sure if that is the problem. I have a Holley 600 cfm on my desk right now also needing a rebuild. I do not have money to buy the intake but I work at a fab shop so i can just make my own adapter plate hopefully. I also found a remanufacturer of the Nikki carbs costing about 500. So my options are rebuild the Holley and make a adapter, or buy a Tomco carburetor. The engine is a stock 12a. Also I need a choke on this 7 because I am in northern Ohio, so a Weber is off the table. I also was thinking about get a chevy tbi and running it from a Rasberry pi with a custom ecu, as well as getting a custom electronic dash if I were to go that route, but seams to far in the future so.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

I'm in northern Ohio as well. What part are you from? I have several parts to include carb parts if you wanted to stick with the original carb.

MindSynthetic

you could buy a carb rebuild kit, it will come with new weights and check *****, as well as needles.

firefox9

If you have a full carb, i have given up on this one and i am willing to trade this carb out and add some bucks ontop of it.

firefox9

what brand rebuild kit has that, i can't find any with it

peejay

You're better off with a Holley manifold adapted to a Nikki. A functional Nikki works loads better than a Holley, and the Holley manifolds on the market are much better than the Mazda manifolds.

From my experience with RB-modified Holleys, they cover up the gross emulsion and transition issues that Holleys have by running rich all the time, which hurts power and fuel economy.

You can't run an unmodified Holley on a rotary without running into severe issues, because Holleys are calibrated to run on a plenum manifold and manifolds for rotaries are more independent-runner. (RB does massive changes to the air bleeds and other circuits in order to make a Holley work on an IR style manifold)

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Check rockauto. Do not use the needles/seats from the rebuild kits, reuse the old ones if possible. Look at the picture, it shows you the ***** and weights. They add these cause they get lost easily.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...386&cc=1192294

Don't waste time on the holley. The rebuild kit is $30.00 and you may be able to make it purr with a simple clean and rebuild of the carb. Previous owner did you a favor by selling you the car cheap. I bet this small investment in the kit and some of your time, you will have a great little car for $600.00. Of course theres no telling what else got effed up as well.

Show us some pics and don't drive it in the snow please!

ToughMedic68

FB RX7 noob here,

So how would you go about getting a Holley Manifold adapted to a Nikki? Which holley manifold are you using? What mods do you have to perform outside of installing an adapter?

Thank you for your time!

~TM68

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

ive got a holley adapted for the nikki, and they just drilled the nikki bolt pattern and called it good. you then will need to cut an ear off the manifold, as it won't clear the throttle linkage.

i think i posted pics, people were skeptical of it clearing the hood

firefox9

The car also needs pain,t i got it running by taking the base gasket off and it idled at 2k then put it back on and it floods. I Know to have a open spacer for the carb and have got info for proper jets and mods to do to the holley, I may even add a oil dripper into my adaptor so i don't have to premix and it keeps getting oil. I really don't have enough patence for this nikki and it is overcomplicated for barely any reasons, thus is why i stripped it down. I may just go buy a tomco nikki for 500 and have a brand new carb. Also it needs paint.

ToughMedic68

Haha I saw the skepticism! Do you have pics of the end result? Also, which manifold is that?? I know it's a holley, but what model?

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

end result was that its sitting in the box my friend gave it to me in, i was never going to try it. its a Racing Beat holley intake, i think there is really only the one

ToughMedic68

I think I found it on racing beat: Holley Intake Manifold for 79-85 RX-7 12A - Racing Beat Part # 16464

Thanks for the intel,

~TM68

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Sorry to be a wet blanket, but those little items in the Rock Auto kit photo are not the ***** and weights for the accel pump. They are the spring-loaded needle cores and extraction clips for the needles.

I just bought one of the RA kits a couple weeks ago, and inside the Hygrade outer box is the same 1401A parts kit that comes in the Sorensens and others for years. Literally off the same assembly line.

I haven't unsealed the kit yet (just finishing disassembly of the carb) but I will be shocked if there are ***** and weights included.

I do, however, have precise measurements for both weights, and the ***** (the ***** are both the same size). Measured them last night during disassembly.

They are, on the 79-80 Nikki:
Inlet Weight (the tiny one over the accel pump): 7.00mm long, 1.94mm dia, brass
Outlet Weight (the one under the jet assembly): 5.02mm long, 4.46mm dia, brass
Check Ball: 3.13mm dia steel ball

The weights would be a piece of cake to make if you can find the right sized brass wire at a hobby shop; I doubt they have to be precise to the 1000th of an inch as they have a lot of clearance.

The ***** can maybe be got from an industrial supply shop that sells bearings. 3.13mm is just an RCH smaller than 0.125" (1/8")

You can buy them for bicycle repair off Amazon, in kits. 500 pack, including 100 in 1/8". $7.45 delivered by Prime.

Getting a stuck ball out; a drop or two of penetrating oil or carb cleaner left overnight, and a magnetic dental probe. Gently wiggle the ball with the tip of the probe and it will come out on the tip of the probe.

Followup: I opened the carb kit I have on the bench; no weights, no *****. Possibly the ones for later model years include them, but I'n not seen a 79/80 kit with those parts in almost 30 years of keeping this beast alive.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Divin, the kits that do contain check ***** have this number and I've found them at rockauto: 1556S