Reliable?
Reliable?
Hey guys, I was wondering if the fb was reliable...for a 20 year old car. I was thinking about purchasing one and it will be my dd. I was also wondering how well they handle, because i do enjoy mountain runs and autox-ing every once in a while. Thanks for your help.
-Mike
-Mike
Both in both areas
If you only do suspension and supporting mods you should get 20+ mpg and great handling!
Seriously, Rotaries are only unreliable when they aren't taken care of or are turbocharged. There are many that have over 300k miles on them.
If you only do suspension and supporting mods you should get 20+ mpg and great handling!
Seriously, Rotaries are only unreliable when they aren't taken care of or are turbocharged. There are many that have over 300k miles on them.
Depends on the condition of the FB and how you drive it. It can be reliable. I use my FB as my DD and I buy new parts for it every once in a while when they go bad. They handle very well, they love the twisties and auto-xing. Good luck!!
P.S. A Turbocharged rotary can be just as reliable
P.S. A Turbocharged rotary can be just as reliable
Last edited by FirebirdSlayer666; Mar 19, 2006 at 11:43 PM.
Thanks for all the info guys, and is there anything that i should look for inparticular when i eventually look to buy one. Any spots where rust usually is? I live in cali, so rush shouldn't really be a problem, but you never know.
-Mike
-Mike
Storage bins, wheel wells, low mielage would be great. Check if the motor has been rebuilt or not. Since you're in Cali, a stock FB would be best. MAke sure your catyletic converter is in working order
they are terrible in the reliabilty dept...they will suck your wallet dry..always something breaking on them..their handling is awful..very dangerous..stay away from FB's
tell ya what..go ahead and get one and just give it to me..I'll make sure no one gets hurt by another one of these things..
did you buy any of that?
welcome to the forum
tell ya what..go ahead and get one and just give it to me..I'll make sure no one gets hurt by another one of these things..
did you buy any of that?
welcome to the forum
Trending Topics
Find a well cared for GSL-SE and you're set. I bought one awhile ago with over 150k miles on the original motor and it always ran perfectly, never any problems. Gas mileage was never spectacular, but it was offset by the fact that it only needed 87 octane. As far as handling, that's what these cars are best known for and you'd be hard pressed to find anything better for the price.
I drive them specifically because they are reliable and I need this to get to work each day, 110 miles round trip:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/479957
Ray
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/479957
Ray
WARNING: Purchasing, owning, and driving an FB is extremely addictive. Be sure to consume in high doses until satisfaction is reached. After complete satisfaction, continue to consume the rotary goodness.
Originally Posted by 85 FB
WARNING: Purchasing, owning, and driving an FB is extremely addictive. Be sure to consume in high doses until satisfaction is reached. After complete satisfaction, continue to consume the rotary goodness.
I purchase d a very rough 83 GSL with 124,000 miles last November for my winter car, 10,000 miles later I have averaged 25 mpg with only plugs, 2nd Gen coil upgrade, 2 tie rod ends and oil. It has never let me down.
Found the shell was pretty rust free so by next year it will be my race car....
Found the shell was pretty rust free so by next year it will be my race car....
Originally Posted by aussiesmg
I purchase d a very rough 83 GSL with 124,000 miles last November for my winter car, 10,000 miles later I have averaged 25 mpg with only plugs, 2nd Gen coil upgrade, 2 tie rod ends and oil. It has never let me down.
Found the shell was pretty rust free so by next year it will be my race car....
Found the shell was pretty rust free so by next year it will be my race car....
Any used car may have problems. I have 3 FBs and they are very reliable. I add 8-10 oz. of premix to every gas fillup (2-cycle oil, MMO or Idemitsu) for improved lubrication. Biggest enemy of rotaries is overheating due to sudden loss of coolant when the @#$$% heater hose that passes under the oil beehive rots thru and dumps all the coolant on the road. It's a bear to replace, but you should do it every 100k as routine maintenance. Get the twisty crooked $40 tube from mazdatrix.com. In a pinch you can actually worm a standard 5/8" heater hose on there, but it's not fun.
Most of the RX-7 mechanicals are pretty standard: nothing too fancy. Use good lubes: I use Redline MTF in all transmissions, and the Redline LSD gearlube in all differentials. I use 10w-30 in the engine (some use heavier stuff, but why?) One of the club guys is an API engineer and recommended Valvoline for it's low ash, so that's what I've been using the last couple years.
Bought the Misty Blue 83GS in my avatar new in 82 and it's still my favorite. Has about 130k now and all I've done to it is replace the transmission with an SE transmission (original trans started whining when I took it out of 4 years storage: probably due to water condensation), new driveshaft last year when the UJoints started clunking. New cat a couple years ago to pass smog. Only upgrades were new Tokico Blue shocks and I expect to swapin a Sterling carb this summer. I expect this car to last for several more years. It's as tight and fun as it was when new and only requires a little attention and care.
Most of the RX-7 mechanicals are pretty standard: nothing too fancy. Use good lubes: I use Redline MTF in all transmissions, and the Redline LSD gearlube in all differentials. I use 10w-30 in the engine (some use heavier stuff, but why?) One of the club guys is an API engineer and recommended Valvoline for it's low ash, so that's what I've been using the last couple years.
Bought the Misty Blue 83GS in my avatar new in 82 and it's still my favorite. Has about 130k now and all I've done to it is replace the transmission with an SE transmission (original trans started whining when I took it out of 4 years storage: probably due to water condensation), new driveshaft last year when the UJoints started clunking. New cat a couple years ago to pass smog. Only upgrades were new Tokico Blue shocks and I expect to swapin a Sterling carb this summer. I expect this car to last for several more years. It's as tight and fun as it was when new and only requires a little attention and care.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
SRTx781
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
6
Dec 19, 2015 07:30 PM




