reccommended street clutches?
03-31-08, 04:35 PM
#1
emissions r teh sux
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reccommended street clutches?
im looking for an affordable street clutch for my 85 GS. stock is nice but i was thinking maybe i would do something a little beefier. i was wondering what brands you guys are using and what price you payed. also would like some opinions on any that you have tried.
03-31-08, 05:14 PM
#2
djessence
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/choosing-stock-clutch-kit-743183/
bout like 4 posts down the info u want will be there.
bout like 4 posts down the info u want will be there.
03-31-08, 05:16 PM
#3
eh go with one of the racing beat or mazdatrix clutch's i used a 4 puck with no springs for daily driver...i love it...and also threw in a heavy duty pressure plate...little hard getting used to but over time with in a day or so i was good...Never went stock again...
03-31-08, 05:18 PM
#4
www.actionclutch.com
It's basically where everyone in SoCal goes to get their **** built/rebuilt! Stock to over 600hp. If you still can, special order the carbon/kevlar facing. They build stuff for RacingBeat and can get you anything you need, a whole kit for a great price, including pilot, T/O bearings+ centering tool, I believe.
Ask for Alex
It's basically where everyone in SoCal goes to get their **** built/rebuilt! Stock to over 600hp. If you still can, special order the carbon/kevlar facing. They build stuff for RacingBeat and can get you anything you need, a whole kit for a great price, including pilot, T/O bearings+ centering tool, I believe.
Ask for Alex
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04-02-08, 10:02 PM
#8
FB+FC=F-ME
If your not boosted,then there isnt going to be much torque to harness.Why beat yourself,your clutch hydraulics and your thrust bearings up with a stiff racing clutch?
I run the RB Street/Strip clutch behind my S5 TII engine.It makes 300HP,which is 50% more than stock,and that clutch has held for years and years.Even with a light flywheel,it drives/feels almost like stock.Its a bit grabbier than the factory unit,but you wont know the difference after a couple days of driving.
Ive tried better and Ive tried worse.........
The better was a 500HP rated OS Giken twin plate setup.It was super responsive,but the push was a bitch and I stalled all the time unless I drove with the stereo off.It never,ever complained no matter how hard I drove,but it was just too much.
The worse was a CenterForce Dual Friction clutch that was supposedly their top quality unit.It lasted for only a year behind my less powerful S4 TII engine,before blowing apart during a modest 1-2 upshift.My buddy also sheared a puck off the same style CF clutch behind a STOCK, 94 Honda Civic......in short,dont buy CenterForce.
I run the RB Street/Strip clutch behind my S5 TII engine.It makes 300HP,which is 50% more than stock,and that clutch has held for years and years.Even with a light flywheel,it drives/feels almost like stock.Its a bit grabbier than the factory unit,but you wont know the difference after a couple days of driving.
Ive tried better and Ive tried worse.........
The better was a 500HP rated OS Giken twin plate setup.It was super responsive,but the push was a bitch and I stalled all the time unless I drove with the stereo off.It never,ever complained no matter how hard I drove,but it was just too much.
The worse was a CenterForce Dual Friction clutch that was supposedly their top quality unit.It lasted for only a year behind my less powerful S4 TII engine,before blowing apart during a modest 1-2 upshift.My buddy also sheared a puck off the same style CF clutch behind a STOCK, 94 Honda Civic......in short,dont buy CenterForce.
04-03-08, 01:59 PM
#9
I'm glad this subject came up.
Hey Steve, I now have a 215mm and 225mm set of street strip pressure plates and two RB light steel flywheels. I'd like to install one in my REPU (supercharged, will be used for towing etc) and the other in my S model (it will start with a mild ported 12A then get the 20B).
I'm just wondering which vehicle should get the slightly smaller pressure plate. That is the only difference. Each flywheel will support a 225mm disc, but only one is clearanced for a 225mm pressure plate. See this thread to know what I'm talking about. https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=744968
I'd like to discuss the pros and cons and arrive at a well thought out conclusion.
Hey Steve, I now have a 215mm and 225mm set of street strip pressure plates and two RB light steel flywheels. I'd like to install one in my REPU (supercharged, will be used for towing etc) and the other in my S model (it will start with a mild ported 12A then get the 20B).
I'm just wondering which vehicle should get the slightly smaller pressure plate. That is the only difference. Each flywheel will support a 225mm disc, but only one is clearanced for a 225mm pressure plate. See this thread to know what I'm talking about. https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=744968
I'd like to discuss the pros and cons and arrive at a well thought out conclusion.
04-06-08, 01:47 AM
#10
FB+FC=F-ME
Whichever one makes the most torque and/or moves the most weight should get the larger clutch.
More surface area means the unit can tolerate soaking up more heat before it gets to a critical temp and fails.The smaller unit might reduce rotating mass a tiny bit,helping with a quick shift,but Id say that advantage is negligible verses having a clutch that can tolerate the power an weight of the vehicle that its going into.
Thats a tough call in your case,since both your vehicles are way outside the norm!
The 1st gen is light,but the 20B is powerful.
The REPU is probably heavier,but it will be gear lower most likely and the 13B will probably make less torque than the 20B(depending on supercharger)
Id put the bigger clutch in the REPU since you mentioned towing.Hauling around trailer weight is tough on all drivetrain parts,especially the clutch.The 1st gen is probably light enough the N/A 20B wont be worked hard moving it around.Even under 3rd-4th gear roll-ons,I can see that engine putting down the brutal torque that boosted engine make suddenly when the turbo kicks in.N/A rotaries have always be very linear and smooth with their power delivery,so the 20B should have a nice flat torque curve that is clutch friendly.
More surface area means the unit can tolerate soaking up more heat before it gets to a critical temp and fails.The smaller unit might reduce rotating mass a tiny bit,helping with a quick shift,but Id say that advantage is negligible verses having a clutch that can tolerate the power an weight of the vehicle that its going into.
Thats a tough call in your case,since both your vehicles are way outside the norm!
The 1st gen is light,but the 20B is powerful.
The REPU is probably heavier,but it will be gear lower most likely and the 13B will probably make less torque than the 20B(depending on supercharger)
Id put the bigger clutch in the REPU since you mentioned towing.Hauling around trailer weight is tough on all drivetrain parts,especially the clutch.The 1st gen is probably light enough the N/A 20B wont be worked hard moving it around.Even under 3rd-4th gear roll-ons,I can see that engine putting down the brutal torque that boosted engine make suddenly when the turbo kicks in.N/A rotaries have always be very linear and smooth with their power delivery,so the 20B should have a nice flat torque curve that is clutch friendly.
04-07-08, 01:54 PM
#11
Thanks for the input Steve. I really appreciate the time and thought you put into your posts.
I had a chance to drag a car out of my friend's garage and up the street a little with my REPU the other day. It still has the stock 30 pound flywheel with its factory 225mm disc and pressure plate. I had to slip the clutch quite a bit to allow time for the other car to slowly manuever around some stuff in his driveway. I can really appreciate the stock setup under circumstances like that. It didn't shudder or feel like it was loosing its grip during the process.
I know that with a light steel flywheel, stock disc and street strip pressure plate, total grip will be at least as strong as factory, if not more so if the SS pressure plate turns out to grip harder than the factory REPU type. Comparing pedal effort with my friend's REPU with all the same parts, except he has an HD disc which does tend to shudder, the actual effort feels very similar. I think Mazda used a stronger diaphram for the REPU. It makes sense since they went to the trouble of designing a 225mm disc with a step in the splined cog that raises it away from the eccentric shaft nut. Yep, that was Mazda's 1970s' solution to fit a 225mm disc within the confines of an otherwise stock flywheel. Only on the REPU but it can be used on the RX-4, Cosmo and GSL-SE (although I wouldn't want to weigh it down with a 30 pound flywheel). It wasn't until '83 that they had a more practical solution for a 225mm disc which shares the same splined cog and other central parts with 215mm discs.
So yeah the REPU will get a full compliment of 225mm parts while the S model will get the 215mm pressure plate but everything else will be 225mm. Oh and instead of a 12A, I get to borrow a friend's 4 port 13B for the S model and temporarily install the SC.
This will teach me how to drive it under some considerable power. Then when I start to get used to the power/start wanting more, the 20B can go in. 
I had a chance to drag a car out of my friend's garage and up the street a little with my REPU the other day. It still has the stock 30 pound flywheel with its factory 225mm disc and pressure plate. I had to slip the clutch quite a bit to allow time for the other car to slowly manuever around some stuff in his driveway. I can really appreciate the stock setup under circumstances like that. It didn't shudder or feel like it was loosing its grip during the process.
I know that with a light steel flywheel, stock disc and street strip pressure plate, total grip will be at least as strong as factory, if not more so if the SS pressure plate turns out to grip harder than the factory REPU type. Comparing pedal effort with my friend's REPU with all the same parts, except he has an HD disc which does tend to shudder, the actual effort feels very similar. I think Mazda used a stronger diaphram for the REPU. It makes sense since they went to the trouble of designing a 225mm disc with a step in the splined cog that raises it away from the eccentric shaft nut. Yep, that was Mazda's 1970s' solution to fit a 225mm disc within the confines of an otherwise stock flywheel. Only on the REPU but it can be used on the RX-4, Cosmo and GSL-SE (although I wouldn't want to weigh it down with a 30 pound flywheel). It wasn't until '83 that they had a more practical solution for a 225mm disc which shares the same splined cog and other central parts with 215mm discs.
So yeah the REPU will get a full compliment of 225mm parts while the S model will get the 215mm pressure plate but everything else will be 225mm. Oh and instead of a 12A, I get to borrow a friend's 4 port 13B for the S model and temporarily install the SC.
This will teach me how to drive it under some considerable power. Then when I start to get used to the power/start wanting more, the 20B can go in.
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