Hey, I have a 84 GSL SE. I currently have a header on with a "performance" exhaust system some shop put on. I have the auxiliary ports working off the air pump. I recently came into possession of a full racing beat exhaust system. My question is should i put on the racing beat exhaust or sell it? Is there any more power to be gained through the RB exhaust system over the one i have on now? Why is racing beat exhaust so good?


Thanks,

Nathan

 

That depends entirely on how good your current system is and how happy you are with it. It also depends on which RB exhaust it is: the long-primary system will make more power than the short-primary system. Generally speaking, muffler shop exhausts tend to be pretty terrible, but we need more information. Collector style? Pipe diameter? Muffler construction? Mandrel bends?

To answer your question, RB's exhausts are considered good because they are built to last and are very quiet while flowing decently and sounding pleasant. Building an exhaust like that for a rotary is rather difficult. RB is the last company that makes a good bolt-on exhaust system for our cars (at least in this hemisphere).

 

The RB system will be much better. But before you install it, have a tube added to allow the aux ports to open. Do some searcing to find out where to add the tube. I think it's called a sensing tube.

 

This racing beat exhaust has the proper connection for the Aux ports already from the factory.

I don't really know much of that information about my current exhaust. Header - chambered resenator - pipe - muffler. It is fairly loud and was much more so before i got a chambered resonator installed. It used to sound old and angry even though the engine was brand new. Its prolly made of steel. It cost 350 to get the exhaust not including the header and get it welded up by a shop. So im guessing that's pretty cheap?

Im thinking ill go for it, but i haven't a clue how many klicks the RB exhaust has on it or how old it is though. Maybe ill slap it on and see what its like and if i like it, do you think i gotta but a new header gasket? Or can i get away with the old one?

Thanks

 

Header to engine gaskets tend to be pretty re-usable, as long as the material between the steel sandwich hasn't gotten old, brittle, and patchy. Otherwise, I've used the same exhaust flange gasket for 10+ years swapping out the header for the stock exhaust (emissions testing here) every other year.

Also, I've been running the RB -SE system for that whole time, and it still sounds the same as when I first installed it. RB used stainless steel for the entire system, so it is amazing for longevity under hot rotary exhaust. Personally, I tried other systems and after installing the RB system, I never looked back.

Rock Auto has the muffler hangers and donuts for cheap, and now would be a good time to swap those out as well to keep the new system tucked up under the car properly. Good luck,

 

I wouldn't worry about the age or mileage of the RB exhaust. They'll last forever.

 

Just keep water from pouring into the presilencers, then letting it sit for who knows how long. The pot scrubber material tends to disintegrate into orange dust. So don't take your hood off in the rain with the carb uncovered. Or use a Racing Beat spun aluminum lid, because it acts like a funnel.

 

I love all these projects you got going on bro, But damn it I can't keep up with all your build, and project threads, but I will say this is my fav

Good **** bro

 

Thanks! But I haven't covered them all yet. I don't want to spend all day typing.

Oh, it's 11 AM. Gotta get to work.

 

yes 100% worth it. expensive but worth it.

 

I second that emotion. Here here!

 

RB for sure. Put it on!

 

Longduck, I had an RB exhaust system on my 85 GSLSE and had a hole to rust through in the muffler . the muffler looked to be an aluminum alloy or light steel . It was silver and didn't look like the rest of the exhaust system. I sold the car, so I can't inspect the muffler now. Are you sure that your muffler is stainless?

 

Early iterations of exhaust systems had steel painted mufflers. Later mufflers are made of stainless steel.

Bought my latest sp system4 years ago and my muffler is SS. I believe this iteration muffler to have been made in Italy.

Newer systems than mine have a different appearing tailpipe with RB logo laser etched that I don’t care for much. Suppose yet another vendor making them.

 

That makes sense Mike. I think I bought mine around 2007. Guess I got the early version. My current GSLSE has a later system, but the muffler is rusting on the outside here at the beach.

 

Is yours sp system? Muffler stainless?
RB etched logo?

 

Don't know. It was on the car when I bought it last year. I don't see the logo on my exhaust tips. Just checked the muffler with a magnet. It sticks. So it appears that I have another system with the steel muffler or a very poor grade of stainless.

 

Muffler painted? How's car running?

 

there are many variations of the older stuff, Made in Italy, several different tip styles. they were all coated with some porous black coating. it is only recently that they switched to making them in house in unpainted stainless

 

When i unboxed my last sp system,mufffler had made in Italy sticker on it.

 

Yes pretty sure it was painted silver. hard to tell with all the surface rust.
Car is running good with a couple idle issues.gonna tackle them today if it cools off here. since the temperature has increased down here, about every third time I drive the car the idle drops to about 600 rpm and sometimes dies. idle screw works and raises rpm, but doesn't overcome it. I suspect a worn place on the throttle shaft (180000 miles) . Going to raise the idle a little with that tiny screw with the brass lock nut and see if that fixes it.
Also I think my ac air supply valve is not working. No change in idle(with the ac on) when I adjust the idle speed screw on it. I'm gonna put battery voltage on the connector and see if it works. I have an extra one if it has croaked. Tried to remove the cover for cleaning when I installed it a year or so ago since it was off the car anyway, and one screw (I think there were 3) just wouldn't come off. stripped the head. It worked finely until a day or so, so I left it alone.
Didn't mean to start a new thread. Hope you are well.
John

 

John,if you haven’t done this recently,take inlet air hose off at throttle body and look at throttle blade/bore. It gets a film of dirt built up on it from combustion blowby that affects amount of air allowed by at idle speeds.

Spritz some throttle body cleaner on primary throttle plate and scrub with tooth brush.
Use throttle cable to hold throttle wot. Spray more cleaner on a rag and wipe throttle plate clean and wipe all around bore where throttle plate closes.
Do this 1st before making any adjustments. You may not need to do anything else,this restores baseline air bypass.

Don’t be tempted to spray throttle body cleaner into throttle bore,doing so would wash all oil film away in rotor housings-bad.

Consider tweaking TPS adjustment to see if needed to help return to base idle speed after decel-for sure if you move throttle plate adjustment.

 

I cleaned the throttle plate and sprayed a little oil where the shaft enters the throttle body (both sides) on the inside and outside about a year ago.
Already raised the throttle stop. haven't test driven yet. Forgot to check the tps. thanks for the remind. will also check throttle plate again and clean it.