Por-15
03-23-07, 09:15 PM
#1
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Por-15
Well, I've been restoring this little GSL-SE of mine as a hobby and have tried just about every paint imaginable on various parts. Rustoleum worked alright if properly sanded and primed but if you hit the part or drop it be prepared to repaint as it will always remove and pretty bad... just trying to get one part back into the car it really knicked it up bad. Overall probably the more durable canned paint I used. I tried some of the high temperature engine enamel and that too works alright but seems a little tougher if you clear coat it after the paint.
Well I broke down and wanted to try this POR-15 stuff I hear about once in a while since I was doing the rear end now and I did not want to take any chances with my wheel wells and suspension arms. I bought a gallon of the metal ready prep, the degreaser, the six pack can of rust paint, and a quart of tank sealer. Well, I read all the directions etc and prepped all my control arms after burning out the bushings then painted with a brush... went on fairly thin which was a relative surprise.
Now, I wasn't expecting what I would see next... this stuff is no joke... its INCREDIBLE... about 5 hours later, I went back and this stuff had hardened... it wasn't just hard I mean it was like I coated the stuff in epoxy. I knocked one of the suspension arms off the work bench and thought for sure it was knicked all over but no... not a single smudge... however... it really killed the paint brushes... even Acetone really had trouble with it... not to mention it totally welded the first can shut since I didn't put any plastic between the lid and can. I got some of the paint on my finger and it refuses to come off. I really suggest wearing latex gloves if you even come near this stuff.
If anyone is painting chassis parts don't even mess around with canned paint, I will never go back to the generic spray can stuff. One little tiny can out of my six pack was able to do all the suspension parts etc on the rear end. I've gone through far more money in spray canned paint than I did with that single tiny can of POR-15. I'm used to one paint being a little more durable or what not than another but this stuff was like a totally different beast all together. I wanted to post this because it was such an incredible difference in quality that I had to share my shocking experience as I know others are always debating which paint to use for chassis components knowing they'll probably just chip anyways... well this stuff takes a SERIOUS beating.
Well I broke down and wanted to try this POR-15 stuff I hear about once in a while since I was doing the rear end now and I did not want to take any chances with my wheel wells and suspension arms. I bought a gallon of the metal ready prep, the degreaser, the six pack can of rust paint, and a quart of tank sealer. Well, I read all the directions etc and prepped all my control arms after burning out the bushings then painted with a brush... went on fairly thin which was a relative surprise.
Now, I wasn't expecting what I would see next... this stuff is no joke... its INCREDIBLE... about 5 hours later, I went back and this stuff had hardened... it wasn't just hard I mean it was like I coated the stuff in epoxy. I knocked one of the suspension arms off the work bench and thought for sure it was knicked all over but no... not a single smudge... however... it really killed the paint brushes... even Acetone really had trouble with it... not to mention it totally welded the first can shut since I didn't put any plastic between the lid and can. I got some of the paint on my finger and it refuses to come off. I really suggest wearing latex gloves if you even come near this stuff.
If anyone is painting chassis parts don't even mess around with canned paint, I will never go back to the generic spray can stuff. One little tiny can out of my six pack was able to do all the suspension parts etc on the rear end. I've gone through far more money in spray canned paint than I did with that single tiny can of POR-15. I'm used to one paint being a little more durable or what not than another but this stuff was like a totally different beast all together. I wanted to post this because it was such an incredible difference in quality that I had to share my shocking experience as I know others are always debating which paint to use for chassis components knowing they'll probably just chip anyways... well this stuff takes a SERIOUS beating.
03-23-07, 09:19 PM
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Wandered over from the 2nd gen section...
I plan on painting (or its it coating?
) the entire suspension, engine bay and underside of the car when I change my worn out bushings and DTSS.
I've heard nothing but good stuff about POR-15
I plan on painting (or its it coating?
) the entire suspension, engine bay and underside of the car when I change my worn out bushings and DTSS. I've heard nothing but good stuff about POR-15
03-24-07, 12:45 AM
#4
Ya doing the same, search for POR15 under my name and you'll find some of the stuff. I'll be updating it this weekend hopefully. To be honest ... i am still worried about it on the springs. Because it is such a hard finish. I'm afraid it would crack or something under loads like that. But I guess only time will tell.
Yes always wear gloves with this sutff, but if you do get it on your hands, the best way that I found to get it off, is while the stuff is still wet or tacky, spray some WD-40 on your hands and rubs it in there. Garantee you that it'll come off by next day. Not sure why or how that works really, but its always seemed to work.
Yes always wear gloves with this sutff, but if you do get it on your hands, the best way that I found to get it off, is while the stuff is still wet or tacky, spray some WD-40 on your hands and rubs it in there. Garantee you that it'll come off by next day. Not sure why or how that works really, but its always seemed to work.
03-24-07, 01:22 AM
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Originally Posted by dj55b
Ya doing the same, search for POR15 under my name and you'll find some of the stuff. I'll be updating it this weekend hopefully. To be honest ... i am still worried about it on the springs. Because it is such a hard finish. I'm afraid it would crack or something under loads like that. But I guess only time will tell.
Yes always wear gloves with this sutff, but if you do get it on your hands, the best way that I found to get it off, is while the stuff is still wet or tacky, spray some WD-40 on your hands and rubs it in there. Garantee you that it'll come off by next day. Not sure why or how that works really, but its always seemed to work.
Yes always wear gloves with this sutff, but if you do get it on your hands, the best way that I found to get it off, is while the stuff is still wet or tacky, spray some WD-40 on your hands and rubs it in there. Garantee you that it'll come off by next day. Not sure why or how that works really, but its always seemed to work.
03-24-07, 03:46 AM
#7
Using a _shaving razor_ will get it off skin! Ask me how I know... 
Yep - most nuke-proof product I have ever used!! Should be noted here that it is UV sensitive, so any application exposed to the sun will require a top coating (also available from POR) or it will turn a gray-ish black in a few months. As to application brushes: buy the cheapest you can and just toss them after!
Storage: yeah, something HAS to go between the lid and the can or you'll need a jackhammer to re-open. Here is what I do: pour remaining contents into a _glass jar_! I seal the top with a zip-lock bag btw the lid and jar. Snap to re-open later. Whereas the original can gets so deformed from opening and tamping shut it doesn't seal properly = air inside and the POR forms a thick "skin" over contents. No such problem in a jar. THEN I store it in the fridge!! (dark, cool). Jar or not it should be stored in a fridge if you keep it long. Mine's 3+ yrs old (quart) and its like new anytime I open it...
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
Yep - most nuke-proof product I have ever used!! Should be noted here that it is UV sensitive, so any application exposed to the sun will require a top coating (also available from POR) or it will turn a gray-ish black in a few months. As to application brushes: buy the cheapest you can and just toss them after!
Storage: yeah, something HAS to go between the lid and the can or you'll need a jackhammer to re-open. Here is what I do: pour remaining contents into a _glass jar_! I seal the top with a zip-lock bag btw the lid and jar. Snap to re-open later. Whereas the original can gets so deformed from opening and tamping shut it doesn't seal properly = air inside and the POR forms a thick "skin" over contents. No such problem in a jar. THEN I store it in the fridge!! (dark, cool). Jar or not it should be stored in a fridge if you keep it long. Mine's 3+ yrs old (quart) and its like new anytime I open it...
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
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03-24-07, 07:25 AM
#8
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Check out the last couple of pages of this thread where I restored the rear end that I transplanted into my '85 GS:
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/i-love-restoring-stuff-549854/
I got the POR-15 idea from 7aull...thanks!
Rich
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/i-love-restoring-stuff-549854/
I got the POR-15 idea from 7aull...thanks!
Rich
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