1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Painting With POR-15? Good Idea?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Sep 22, 2003 | 07:13 AM
  #1  
RotorMotorDriver's Avatar
Thread Starter
Seven Is Coming
Tenured Member 20 Years
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,503
Likes: 4
From: Washington
Question Painting With POR-15? Good Idea?

Ok, so some of you know, some of you dont. I plan on repainting my entire car eventually, but for now, Im starting with the engine bay since its going to be hard to do after the engine is in . Anyway, I have some light rust in certain areas (under battery tray, misc. screw holes), and I was thinking about just sanding/grinding it out, rust coating, and painting with auto paint products. Well, the other day I thought, why not just use Rustoleum or whatever? That thought quickly went to why not use a "good product" that Ive heard good things about like POR-15? So, I went and browsed their website (www.por15.com), and I figured I could just get some of their Rust Preventive paint in gray to paint the bay with as a "primer" to stop all the rust, then topcoat it with their Whitecote because I want the bay white to match the exterior of the car eventually. Ill also get another can of the regular rust preventive paint in black to do the misc other stuff I have to do (hard coolant lines, brackets, etc) that might rust again, as well as their metal cleaners and other chemicals neccessary to prep the surfaces. I figure the paints will stand up better to the abuse of cleaners, chemicals, and whatever else the engine bay goes up against versus the regular auto paints.

My question is has anyone else tried painting something as large as an engine bay with POR-15 before? I plan to use a spray gun as recommended and follow all of their directions, but I just wanted to know if anyone else had tried this by any chance. Also, does this sound like a good idea? I know its "less work", but its also cheaper in the long run because of the lack of other chemicals and coatings required to treat the rust "properly". Im not really on a budget per say (I want to do it right), its just that if this is going to work just as good (if not better) for less, then why not? I figure that for all the supplies I would need from them, Im looking at about $223.50 shipped according to their website. I got a quote from a few auto body shops for more than that getting less material per item, and needing more items to get the job done. That $223.50 includes the following:

WHITECOTE® - Quart $45.00
POR-15® - Quart (1 Black, 1 Gray) $62.00
POR-15® Solvent - Quart $8.00
Marine Clean® - Gallon $17.50
METAL-READY® - Gallon $28.75
POR-STRIP® - Gallon $27.00
3-Pack Dry Air Filters $19.50

So, as you can see, thats a good amount of product for such a small area, but I would much rather have too much than not enough. Besides, I will always come up with something else to use it on, lol .

~T.J.

PS - So far all Ive done is cleaned (degreased, scrubbed with steel wool) and wet sanded with 600 grit paper (per auto shop reccomendation) under the hood to prepare for the paint. I got rid of as much rust as possible for now so its all ready for whatever treatment, so even if the POR-15 route turns out it isnt good, I can still do something else.

Last edited by RotorMotorDriver; Sep 22, 2003 at 07:16 AM.
Reply
Old Sep 22, 2003 | 07:18 AM
  #2  
rotor vs. piston's Avatar
Function > Form
Tenured Member 15 Years
 
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 10,890
Likes: 3
From: Catonsville MD (baltimore suburb)
I've painted my engine and countless other things with POR-15 and would recomend you paint your engine bay with it.
Reply
Old Sep 22, 2003 | 07:23 AM
  #3  
rotor vs. piston's Avatar
Function > Form
Tenured Member 15 Years
 
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 10,890
Likes: 3
From: Catonsville MD (baltimore suburb)
Sorry about the vauge post, I had someone looking over my shoulder (I'm at work) The quality of POS-15 products is outstanding. I had planed on painting my engine bay as well but got to much in a rush to put the engine in. I do plan on removing the sound deading matriel in the the hatch to get to all of the little surface rust back there and painting it with POR-15. My .02
Reply
Old Sep 22, 2003 | 07:23 AM
  #4  
RotorMotorDriver's Avatar
Thread Starter
Seven Is Coming
Tenured Member 20 Years
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,503
Likes: 4
From: Washington
Nice and to the point, lol. Thanks . Does it apply well? Does it work as well as they say it does?

~T.J.

EDIT: Haha, you posted the answers as I was writting this. Thanks . Anyone else have any experiance with them?
Reply
Old Sep 22, 2003 | 09:19 AM
  #5  
Beorex's Avatar
Full Member
Tenured Member 05 Years
 
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From: Wyoming
i think it is a good idea and you sound to be on the right path towards restoration. tackle that rust before its too late
Reply
Old Sep 22, 2003 | 10:29 AM
  #6  
Mr_Rx7_Au's Avatar
Aussie Rx7 Freak
Tenured Member 05 Years
 
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 412
Likes: 0
From: Adelaide, Australia
I've used it under my battery holder where some acid etched away some paint and yeah it's a fantastic product here in oz
Reply
Old Sep 22, 2003 | 10:42 AM
  #7  
mar3's Avatar
Administrator
Tenured Member: 25 Years
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: Nov 1998
Posts: 12,974
Likes: 62
From: So. Arlington, TX!!!
What kind of finish does this stuff have? Does it show any "orange peel" or is it glossy smooth once cured?
Reply
Old Sep 22, 2003 | 11:33 AM
  #8  
Wankelguy's Avatar
My FSP Fiesta eats Jettas
Tenured Member 20 Years
 
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,616
Likes: 3
I haven't used POR 15 personally, but I have heard nothing but praise for it.
It seems a mite expensive, though.
I use phosphoric acid to "kill" rust, then paint with ordinary automotive paints. Some brands are "Os-Pho", and "Rust-Mort", which I think is a SEM product.
Just ferret out the rust with a little Scotchbrite disc on an air tool, or you can even use a wire wheel chucked into an electric drill. You don't need to remove ALL the rust, just any loose stuff. Then paint the rust with the phosphoric acid, which is runny like water. You can even thin it a bit with water for better penetration in cracks, seams, etc. After a few minutes, you'll notice the rust is turning black. It's being converted to Iron Phosphate, which is similar to the corrosion-resistant finish used on military weapons (Parkerizing). After it has all turned black and dried completely, I wipe the area down with acetone on a rag, and it's ready to primer. Anyway, a bottle of the stuff costs about $5-$7 and will go a long way.
Just my thoughts on the subject, I'm sure that you'll do a good job whatever method you use.
Reply
Old Sep 23, 2003 | 12:18 AM
  #9  
RotorMotorDriver's Avatar
Thread Starter
Seven Is Coming
Tenured Member 20 Years
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,503
Likes: 4
From: Washington
What kind of finish does this stuff have? Does it show any "orange peel" or is it glossy smooth once cured?
The Whitecote Im going to "top coat" with has a glossy finish, and the black regular POR-15 I assume is a glossy finish, because in the color option list, they have either black, or semi-gloss black. Even if its not glossy, the make Blackcote that I can topcoat it with that is.

Yeah, I have some Rust-Mort from a VW bug project I did with my Dad, and that **** was AMAZING, I only hope that the POR-15 does as good of a job.

~T.J.
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
cristoDathird
Introduce yourself
28
May 30, 2019 08:47 PM
Tannergsl-setarga7
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
4
Aug 19, 2015 08:55 AM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:11 AM.