Oil pipe nipple.
04-28-21, 07:23 AM
#28
I'm just kidding, I don't know anything about the RX7 auto's operation.
The only auto's I ever played with were GM th350 / 400 / 700r4's with a kickdown /TV cable off the carb linkage and a vacuum line off the intake. It just didn't make sense to me that the vapor pressure in the block would have anything to do with tranny operation, especially since there's a system to purge those vapors/pressures and as your motor ages you will get more and more pressure from the "blow-by".
The only auto's I ever played with were GM th350 / 400 / 700r4's with a kickdown /TV cable off the carb linkage and a vacuum line off the intake. It just didn't make sense to me that the vapor pressure in the block would have anything to do with tranny operation, especially since there's a system to purge those vapors/pressures and as your motor ages you will get more and more pressure from the "blow-by".
Last edited by Maxwedge; 04-28-21 at 08:08 AM.
04-28-21, 04:06 PM
#29
Senior Newbie Member
Thread Starter
I'm just kidding, I don't know anything about the RX7 auto's operation.
The only auto's I ever played with were GM th350 / 400 / 700r4's with a kickdown /TV cable off the carb linkage and a vacuum line off the intake. It just didn't make sense to me that the vapor pressure in the block would have anything to do with tranny operation, especially since there's a system to purge those vapors/pressures and as your motor ages you will get more and more pressure from the "blow-by".
The only auto's I ever played with were GM th350 / 400 / 700r4's with a kickdown /TV cable off the carb linkage and a vacuum line off the intake. It just didn't make sense to me that the vapor pressure in the block would have anything to do with tranny operation, especially since there's a system to purge those vapors/pressures and as your motor ages you will get more and more pressure from the "blow-by".
04-28-21, 04:16 PM
#30
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
04-28-21, 09:41 PM
#31
Full Member
Charcoal Canister -
The gas tank needs to "breathe" and does this through a metal hard line from the tank to the firewall. From the firewall it becomes a rubber line to the charcoal can.
When the gas warms up and evaporates/expands it breathes out to the charcoal can. The charcoal holds the gas vapors so they can't escape to atmosphere and don't stink up your engine bay/garage. When you start the car those fumes are sucked into the engine and burnt. When the motor is running and pulling fuel from the tank, that vent line let's air flow the other way into the tank, so you don't get a vacuum condition in the tank which would fight against the fuel pump. When guys complain that removing the gas cap either let's a big burp out, or sucks air in, it's because their vent line is plugged, clogged or crushed. This can also make you run out of fuel after a few miles.
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Frogman (04-29-21)
05-19-21, 03:43 AM
#35
Senior Newbie Member
Thread Starter
Update . So i made a custom little set up . I got a large rubber cap for a hose and slid both the oil pipe nipple and a 3 inch rubber tibe of equal girth into it , like A Stuffed U but. it worked for about three weeks but the rubber hose i used was for window washer fluid and turned to mush and again comes the leaks. Tonight i took a 10 inch gas hose , heated it with a heat gun so it fit snuggly onto the oil nipple , used the same cap but added a plastic nipple at the end with a hole and ram it right next to the oil filter. I doubt oil will run up Ten inches and if it does its going to face a Narrow breather cap . Funny how a few drops of oil gathers so much gunk in three weeks .
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