hcaulfield57

iTrader: (1)

Okay, so for those following my posts, a few weeks ago my steering was just about perfect. Thursday of last week I noticed that the steering started becoming strange. There isn't really any additional play, the steering just feels more numb than usual and like the feedback is much less. It almost feels like it wants to shimmy or move around a bit in turn. The car drives fine, aside from the steering feeling numb and "fuzzy".

I figured the steering linkage is fine since I just replaced all those parts a few thousand miles ago and there isn't any additional play. I decided to check the wheel bearings. Took off the brakes and spun the rotors, they spun pretty easily. Got out my digital fish scale and preload read ~.3 - .4 ft-lb. I took the rotors off and repacked the outer wheel bearing with grease. Put the rotors back on tightened the preload to ~2.8 - 3 ft-lb on both sides. Steering felt good until I got on the highway and starting feel numb again. Checked the preload again, and seemed a little lower on the drivers side, but those scales aren't very accurate so it's probably what I set it to last night.

Ideas, I'm very confused. I don't think it's all in my head, since the steering was quite good a week ago.

ray green

iTrader: (14)

I'm guessing it's the idler arm, if it's not the nut behind the wheel.

I'd recommend the moog unit if you don't have one already.

1985 MAZDA RX-7 1.1L R2 Idler Arm | RockAuto

hcaulfield57

iTrader: (1)

Here's my confusion, I just replaced the idler arm with the Moog unit. This was changed out when I did the steering linkage when I got the car: ~4-5k miles ago. Should I just check for play in the unit? It could be that I'm just imagining it, but the steering really does feel funky compared to how it was a few weeks ago.

ray green

iTrader: (14)

Yes I'd look for play first.

Jack up each front wheel separately and grasp the tire firmly and give it a good shake, first on the horizontal edges to check for play in the steering, then on the vertical edges to check on the bearings and ball joints.

Do this for both sides, if you feel some play trouble shoot where it's coming from.

If everything is tight and you're still not happy with the feel, I'd make sure the alignment is OK and the tires are balanced and have the correct pressure.

If all that is good it just might be your imagination.

hcaulfield57

iTrader: (1)

Great, thanks. I'll check this tomorrow and see if anything is showing play. Is it possible that the preload on the wheel bearings is too low?

It's possible it's my imagination, I am somewhat of a hypochondriac when it comes to my car. But I feel the steering had a much better feel before Thursday.

Tire pressure is set at 38 psi on both sides and I think the alignment is fine. One thing is that my sway bar is rubbing, and I wonder if that's creating a crappy feeling in turns. Not sure that would explain the numb turn-in though. This will not be an issue once I replace the shocks (which I was supposed to do this weekend), but apparently UPS does not ship on Friday anymore - whatever.

rwatson5651

iTrader: (5)

Have you made any adjustments to the steering box?

hcaulfield57

iTrader: (1)

Nope, and I'm reluctant to since the play is within what is specified in the FSM, maybe about 1/2 - 3/4" on each side. Car has about 58,000 miles on it, I feel that's probably a bit premature to adjust the box. It'd be a shame to destroy a good box which really should last the life of the car.

rwatson5651

iTrader: (5)

Agreed,

I was concerned you may have tightened it too much, causing the funny feeling steering.

hcaulfield57

iTrader: (1)

So drove the car today, I'm convinced it's got to be either wheel bearings, wheels out of balance or bad alignment. It feels like the wheels are wobbling even when going in a straight line. It's pretty funky, I'm convinced there is a problem it's not my imagination. But it's even at a low speed that it feels wobbly, even on center it feels like the steering wheel wants to move around. The car tracks completely straight though.

GSLSEforme

Been following this thread and wondering if one of those new tires you bought may have a shifted belt. Hit any potholes lately? To rule out the tires for diagnostic purposes,rotate them to the back of the car and put rears on front. While you still have the car up on stands,start it and put in gear and lookat the tires to see if you can see a wobble(runout radial or side to side). If you can't see anything make sure wheels are tight,put it on the ground and take it for a drive and see if it drives different.

JSmall

38 PSI?! :o

GSLSEforme

Didn't catch that,little high. I run mine at 32 psi. Harder ride,but don't think would cause symptoms op talks about.

hcaulfield57

iTrader: (1)

I'll try rotating the tires and see what happens. With regards to the tire pressure, I put it up when the steering started getting strange, seeing if it was a result of low tire pressure, I never took it back down. The tires say good up to 44 psi, so I dunno.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

I haven't gone back to your other threads, are those tires new? Could you be feeling the wear
bars on them if they are old?

Also check to make sure you didn't throw a weight and a wheel is out of balance.

GSLSEforme

Fyi "good up to 44 psi' -usually sidewall says maximum pressure or do not exceed such and such pressure... This is for the installer of the tire and pertains to the maximum amount of air pressure allowed to seat the tire bead(s) during initial inflation of the tire and is the manufacturers legal disclaimer if anything happens(tire implosion) from using more air pressure than what is stated on the sidewall. Have had to exceed that pressure from time to time when mounting lo profile performance tires,and more often when mounting motorcycle tires The inflation pressures you maintain in your tires has nothing to do with what the tire sidewall says. Lot of people mistake that for the running pressure. I know you've changed the type and size of tires now on your car,so what was originally recommended by Mazda really no longer applies. Max inflation(cold) for tires like that on the street would be around 32 psi. Only going higher if car will see track time.

7aull

iTrader: (2)

Mazda specifies 26psi (185/70-13s) in ops manual
I run 30...

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

JSmall

That's why I was so surprised haha. I tend to keep mine at 26-28 depending on what mood I'm in when I do them

hcaulfield57

iTrader: (1)

I have 205/60-13 tires if that makes a difference.

GSLSEforme

30-32 is good

7aull

iTrader: (2)

Me too: still at 30 PSI tho. Might find you run the rubber of the center treads pretty quick at your pressures...?
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

I run about 36 in front and 33 in the rear.

hcaulfield57

iTrader: (1)

Okay, rotated the tires today, rear went onto the front and vice-versa. Didn't notice much, if any difference. I still felt the "wobble" through turns and the steering felt a little "numb" through the turns as well. The strange thing is the steering feels light, responsive and tight. There isn't anymore play than normal and it seems to drive fine beyond this. I have a few theories:

- When I checked the wheel bearings earlier the preload was very low, perhaps I ran with too low of a preload for awhile and somehow damaged the bearings
- The front swaybar is rubbing, so maybe I'm feeling it through the turns and when in a straight line (if the road is a bit bumpy)

My shocks arrived on Monday, so I'm replacing the springs, shocks and clearancing the swaybar and then will re-evaluate where the issue is coming from. Any more ideas anyone?

GSLSEforme

+1 on the swaybar clearancing. Recall you talking about car pulling to one side on brake apply also. This would be a good time to look at at the complete front suspension and brake system as you'll have everything apart for spring/strut install. Be sure to look at strut rod bushings for proper assembly(if urethane,proper lube)and torque of large nuts at front of strut rod. Make sure your lower control inner mounting bolts/bushings are tight and lubed properly if urethane. Look at tie rod adjust sleeve hardware both sides,make sure they're tight. Not first time seen a car come from alignment shop with adjusting hardware left loose-likely need to reset toe as you're lowering car.

GSLSEforme

Check your subframe attaching hardware for being tight while looking everything else over.

GSLSEforme

Should reset preload on wheel bearings,doing mine today. Lifted car last night and have slight amount of play on driver side,been about 100 miles since overhauling everything in front & backof car. Been putting car thru its paces in parking lot nearby adjusting swaybars/tire pressures. Didn't notice anything in handling/braking,just checking all fasteners for proper torque after everything is getting broken in. Springs/ride height settling in some now also,rechecking toe settings last. Doubt your wheel bearings have suffered any damage from being run a little loose. Did you change the oil in your steering gearbox? Did mine last night,sucked out all the old oil and refilled with Amzoil severe gear 75-90 wt. Surprised the old oil wasn't really dirty. Have checked the level from time to time over the years,always stayed the same. Adjusting box today for first time to address a bit of on center play.