tugboatdriver37

Hello
New member here. I would like to replace the door weather stripping on our 1984 GSL-SE. I have read some archived posts regarding the weather stripping from a eBay vendor, I believe A1auto, and the weather stripping from Rock Auto, Summit, etc.
Does anyone have recent experience replacing their seals, and what product was used?
Thanks
Jeff

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

There was a thread on just this subject within the last month. As far as a know, the weather stripping sold by all these parts companies is the METRO LM107


https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...bbers-1134009/

derSchwamm

iTrader: (1)

I used OEM not too long ago. They were still available. Some of the little tabs have already ripped out of the rubber though, so I can't say they're perfect, but I have a hard time believing a cheaper aftermarket set is better

7aull

iTrader: (2)

I have used both OE and aftermarket, with mixed results: my first shot at a new set of Mazda door w-seals had one fail within 2 years. On the lesser-used passenger side of the car, no less. The top rear corner joint separated completely. I bought a set of aftermarket (brand unknown) thru BlackDragon parts (when they still sold RX7 bits), and so far, with 2yrs in, they are fine. At 1/2 the price.

Your mileage may vary...

Stu Aull
80GS
AZ

LiLDorito

I bought the metro seals from Rock auto and just about any other major parts place. I've only had them on since November so longevity is unknown, otherwise they're great. Easy, fit and work well, and look good. They also have that nice sound when the door shuts. Or is that just me? When I put them on I cleaned the tracks out well and added some of the yellow weather sealant from advanced. For the price I think they are well worth it. I'll upload a picture of them for you tomorrow.

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

if you use the weather seal sealant, use it very sparingly. I lie the 3M stuff. It only takes a little dab in the few places that can cause a problems. No need to to place any where the little plastic pieces are.

RGHTBrainDesign

Dielectric Grease is the key to longevity.

LiLDorito

Hope this helps some. Also like Kansas said user the 3m sparingly. I used small smudges on the top and corners just in case.

tugboatdriver37

Thanks for the tip on the di-electric grease. I have used light weight silicone grease, and silicone spray. I’m sure you would apply the grease after installation, otherwise it might be a problem retaining the weather stripping in the grooves.
I have ordered a set of Metro LM107 from Summit. Seems like Metro must make a bunch, then supplies or drop ships from the factory. Mid April for delivery.
Jeff

Ckforker

My oem replacements have tabs that click in, no need for glue. Maybe the aftermarket needs glue, but I wouldn't want that on my door.

Mine have been in for about 4 years and they make a world of difference in the sound when shutting the door and overall road noise.

ray green

iTrader: (14)

I like the Metros, they have the tabs too, just like the OEM seals. Also about half the price.


However they don't just "click in", you need to seat them carefully (I use a wide spatula) to get them well seated.

I imagine the more expensive OEM seals would be the same way, since it's the nature of the seal, they are just fitted sponge rubber.

But if you do a good job on the installation, including seating all the clips well and snugging things up, no adhesive is needed for the Metros.

This makes things easier if you need to remove them to put on another car.

84rtaryrcket

Finished installing OEM seals today. Perfect fit and road noise is substantially better.

Ckforker

Definitely changes the overall driving experience!

ray green

iTrader: (14)

New door seals make the car feel like a new car. The door part at least. Well worth doing.

tugboatdriver37

Well, the Metro LM 107 door seals arrived yesterday, 10 days earlier than expected. They appear to be good quality, substantially thicker than the 35 year old OEM seals.
Installation was straight forward, I used a wood shim to compress seal into track.
Doors close pretty hard now, I only had the drivers door come loose at the rear base of the window track. Will wait to see if I need any cement.
I need to adjust the drivers door, sags a little at rear. Any ideas or procedures would be appreciated.
Jeff

GSLSEforme

Likely worn hinge pins are the cause of sag? Grab door top and bottom when about 1/2 way open and lift up and down and feel for play,any play is not good and is magnified at opposite end of door.
If no play in hinge pins,(any accident damage,previous repairs in this area) look at body lines to see if door matches rear of front fender and matches leading edge of 1/4 panel. Is it possible the latch striker has loosened/shifted?

If hinge pins are worn/loose,they can be repaired. New door hinges have been discontinued for some time. I documented this procedure a couple years ago here. On my phone at the moment,when home later i will try to locate that thread.

tugboatdriver37

Thanks
i would appreciate the link for the hinge pin replacement.
Jeff

GSLSEforme

Still on my phone,having no luck with search function here. Google 1st Gen RX7 door hinge pin replacement. Click on 1st pic at top left and will take you to to this site and thread.