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Yes but i cannot order them now by rockauto (out of stock). The next problem is i live in Holland so all i know is that rockauto is shipping internationally.
I don't know if there are other websites like rockauto that send parts internationally.
I got my 6 rubber parts fresh OEM built inclusive tracking for 118 Euro, Must wait about 2 week.The Company built the parts in the 80ty for Mazda does exist and made them for me.
Last rubber parts from Mazda does have long storage . US parts are to expensive to Import for german, Does not fit, or are to heavy to shut the door.
Very good deal and quality. Much more better then mazda original parts.
Thomas
8871-58-760 Door rubber = 38 USD/pc
8871-59-760 Door rubber = 38 USD/pc
8871-58-781 Outer W/strip = 8 USD/pc x 2 = 16 USD
8871-58-791 Inner W/Strip = 8 USD/pc x 2 = 16 USD
8871-58-605C Run channel = We still don't have this item, if you may have any sample please let us know.
We could courier to you (7-14 days) = 51 USD
Last edited by Rx7fb spirit r; 02-28-19 at 03:44 PM.
Thank you for the info as soon I finish some of the work on my rx-7, I will order these items.
I can save the email and contact u for the rubbers?
thank you again.
You can read my Thread here. The mailadress is where you can order in thailand. Very nice and helpful guy.
http://www.rx7fb.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=1990&hilit=Door+rubber
The after market version of the door seals is METRO LM107 and is sold by many places including eBay, Amazon, Summit Racing, etc. Amazon has them for $55 US.
Hey, out of curiosity are y'all gluing your door seals in the tracks on install? When I did mine I didn't glue them, and every once in a while the passenger side pops out on top. From memory I believe there is an adhesive designed for this application, although I don't know one myself - without researching that is. Thoughts?
I glued mine. Big mistake. The ones I got from rock auto fit in really snug. And the glue got in the way and I had to remove it. I got most of it, and it was a bitch to remove.
I bent the driver's door doing something really stupid and almost lost my fingers. Got a junk yard door, and tried to removed the new 10 y o door weatherstrips from the original bent door. It came of in pieces. I glued the pieces on the straight junk yard door. If it keeps the rain out, I will not have to drop $60(?) on another new weather strip.
After I fix the leaky weather seal problem, I can install this funky orange carpetting that I chose when I was drunk. WTF was I thinking?
I can confirm midnight's experience, I used some contact cement the first time I installed a pair of these Metros about ten years ago.
Then when I needed to remove them to put on another car I realized my mistake, they were hard to get off without damage.
The Rock Auto Metros I recently installed on the LE pictured above are without any adhesive and they are nice and snug, I doubt there will ever be any issues.
And if a problem does come up later I'll just put a dab of contact cement at that point to hold it in place.
The lower edge and section along the vertical parts of the doors are the only areas that might need adhesive:
PS - Midnight, I have some stock maroon carpets in good shape if have that interior and want to stay original, just let me know.
PSS - Also Ben the problem with it popping out on the top edge of the passenger door is most likely not caused by an absence of adhesive, in fact as I recall even the manufacturer's instructions don't call for adhesive in that area. Instead your seal is probably not securely seated in the door frame. There are two beads running along the inside mounting edge of the door seals that need to sit snugly into grooves on the door frame and this can be tricky. I ended up using a spatula to seat them in, that worked really well.
Interesting. Yeah, I have the RA Metro's too and they seemed pretty snug. It's only every once in a while (such as when the door freezes or it's been more humid than normal) that they stick to the sill and get pulled out. I'd say it happens at least weekly, and I have to carry around a 'tongue depressor' as a reinstallment tool.
I didn't glue mine with the same logic (I figured they'd have to come out sometime in the next few years when I start to clean up the paint). Although obviously that's not been working for me, so perhaps I'll put a few dabs in to hold it. I found some 3M stuff and it's only six bucks so I think I'll give it a shot. Maybe I'll pull the channel section and let it sit for a while to try and let them expand a hair before I glue them.
Thanks.
Hey I just had a thought. If I remember correctly the Metro's have a '15 year warranty'. What are the odds that that would cover falling out seals? Actually... the instructions say to use glue so, perhaps not.
Edit: Well that PSS was timed well. I am aware of the two grooves that the seal has to sit it (like your spatula, I use a tongue depressor) and I'm fairly certain they're seated in there good. One thought though: I believe there was one time close to when I first installed them that they popped out without my knowledge, and the doors were closed on the unseated seal. Why they popped out in the first place I don't know, but I suppose it's a good chance that the above incident caused the seals to compress in places they were not supposed to.
Edit #2: Just read through that thread you linked, and I used darned near the exact same method that you did on installation. I also cleaned the jambs thoroughly so I doubt that's what caused the original case.
Last edited by Benjamin4456; 03-02-19 at 09:32 AM.
Sounds like the problem is when it freezes a bit of moisture between the door frame and door seal freezes, effectively "gluing" the seal to the door frame. I don't have that problem here in Northeast Georgia, it almost never freezes.
Then when you open the door the seal pulls away because it's not seated well enough or maybe there's some residual grease on the seal that you applied when installing (like I did)..
When you get a chance you should try cleaning up the seal and the grooves on the door with some hot soapy water and/or solvent like isopropanol to remove any traces of grease, that might let the seal stick on the door better.
Right on KC, those Metro LM107's are good rubbers.
I was making 2 detail picture sorry my bad german english. The problem are the edges that are glued. The bad rubber like yours you can see on top. Have a look on the different in the quality of the material on the picture i think.
My rubber doesn't need any glue.It will fitting better then yours as i can see on your picture you post above. BTW I am living in the black forest (a cold mountain) since 36 years without any issue.
Last edited by Rx7fb spirit r; 03-02-19 at 12:04 PM.
Mazda OEM door seals are available, order at a Mazda dealership. I would imagine that Mazda dealers in Europe can still get you the parts, may take longer as they come from a warehouse in California I think. I'm in Canada and my local dealer can get any part in 3-4 days.
I believe all of the door related weather stripping is still available. (Door, window inner, outer, and the window channel)
Mazda OEM provides the best fitment, quality, and is sure to last for another 30 years.
So far I have just replaced the door weather strip as described in above posts.
Mazda OEM door seals are available, order at a Mazda dealership. I would imagine that Mazda dealers in Europe can still get you the parts, may take longer as they come from a warehouse in California I think. I'm in Canada and my local dealer can get any part in 3-4 days.
I believe all of the door related weather stripping is still available. (Door, window inner, outer, and the window channel)
Mazda OEM provides the best fitment, quality, and is sure to last for another 30 years.
So far I have just replaced the door weather strip as described in above posts.
The pics above with the broken seal show the mazda OEM door seals i bought 15years ago. The seals where 20 years old and we all know rubber will wear out with the long age. No option in my opinion.
the driver's door and the body doesn't hold daylight. those metal covers that go around the windshield are missing. does everyone else's rx-7 form a tight seal between window frame and the body? any suggestions on a good retro fit weather seal? there is bubble weather stripping at car parts places. the car was in a bad fiery accident and rebuilt before i bought it.
i bought some OEM seals through tasca parts.com they had the best prices and i also ordered OEM rear end links through them, also the best price, saved atleast $100 going through them
"the driver's door and the body doesn't hold daylight. those metal covers that go around the windshield are missing. does everyone else's rx-7 form a tight seal between window frame and the body? any suggestions on a good retro fit weather seal? there is bubble weather stripping at car parts places. the car was in a bad fiery accident and rebuilt before i bought it."
Sounds like you've got a bent door, maybe even a bent door frame.
Bubble wrap and some contact cement would be a good way to fix it. cheaper than that stuff at the autoparts stores.
02-28-19, 02:52 PM
