new brakes pulling hard
08-11-02, 06:33 PM
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
new brakes pulling hard
The front brakes pull to the right under hard braking. They are new rebuilt calipers, master, etc. The first rebuilt master cylinder leaked, it was replaced. This one is slowly oozing, don't think that's the problem. Used the old proportioning valve, could this be the problem?
08-11-02, 07:57 PM
#3
It sounds like a proportioning valve to me, but then again, what do I know. Also, along with Manntis, if just the right side has been replaced, it would work more efficently than the left, causing the car to pull to that direction because its stopping faster on that side...I guess thats a good way to put it.
~T.J.
~T.J.
08-11-02, 09:15 PM
#4
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I replaced both sides with rebuilt calipers and installed new brake lines all around. I picked up 2 proportioning valves today at the u-pull. (GSL-SE, GSL) I might swap in one of those. I was hoping that maybe this was sort of common when breaking in new brake pads.
08-11-02, 09:24 PM
#5
Old [Sch|F]ool
Be sure to check the suspension, too. If any bushings are shot then the suspension can move around. My '85 has this problem, the strut rod bushings are shot on the right side and it allows the right front wheel to move fore and aft a lot. This changes caster and causes the car to pull right when braking.
Also, if the idler arm bushings are junk, it will cause the right front wheel to toe-out on braking. This is the same as steering to the right... it's not a true pull (once you compensate by turning the wheel left, it goes straight) but it feels like one if you hold the steering wheel still.
rotormotordriver, on all the cars i've done where i replaced only one side's pads (just personal cars NEVER for a customer) the car pulls AWAY from the new brakes. this is because new brakes don't work as well as used ones until they break in.
Also, if the idler arm bushings are junk, it will cause the right front wheel to toe-out on braking. This is the same as steering to the right... it's not a true pull (once you compensate by turning the wheel left, it goes straight) but it feels like one if you hold the steering wheel still.
rotormotordriver, on all the cars i've done where i replaced only one side's pads (just personal cars NEVER for a customer) the car pulls AWAY from the new brakes. this is because new brakes don't work as well as used ones until they break in.
Last edited by peejay; 08-11-02 at 09:27 PM.
08-11-02, 10:19 PM
#6
rotormotordriver, on all the cars i've done where i replaced only one side's pads (just personal cars NEVER for a customer) the car pulls AWAY from the new brakes. this is because new brakes don't work as well as used ones until they break in.
.~T.J.
Trending Topics
08-12-02, 06:24 AM
#11
'Last Minute' Rallying
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Lincoln, England
Posts: 1,193
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sounds like they need re-bleeding or checking to make sure that the rebuilt callipers are working properly
out of interest do RX7's GSL-SE type set up (MK3) have a diagonal split on the brake circuits like more modern cars or is it a front rear split ?
out of interest do RX7's GSL-SE type set up (MK3) have a diagonal split on the brake circuits like more modern cars or is it a front rear split ?
08-12-02, 09:22 AM
#12
Old [Sch|F]ool
My '85 GSL (same car just smaller engine) has the same setup as earlier cars.... it's front-rear split, however the front brakes have two rake lines coming from the master cylinder, one goes directly to the left front caliper and the other one goes through the proportioning valve because it goes to the right front caliper. Only one line for the rear brakes, from the master all the way back to the axle.
As far as I know, up to the mid-90's (which is when I stopped paying attention to it), only front-drive cars have split diagonal. Apparently front-drive cars get very touchy if you drive them with only front brakes, or only rear brakes, as when half of a front/rear split system fails.
As far as I know, up to the mid-90's (which is when I stopped paying attention to it), only front-drive cars have split diagonal. Apparently front-drive cars get very touchy if you drive them with only front brakes, or only rear brakes, as when half of a front/rear split system fails.
Last edited by peejay; 08-12-02 at 09:24 AM.
08-14-02, 10:00 PM
#14
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Update: Put in the 3rd master cylinder in 3 days and it helped the brakes a lot. Went with a new one this time. The brakes are seated in fine now, I spent all day at the track.
The brakes work fine at 95
The brakes work fine at 95
08-14-02, 10:26 PM
#16
Originally posted by rotor-lynn
Update: Put in the 3rd master cylinder in 3 days and it helped the brakes a lot. Went with a new one this time. The brakes are seated in fine now, I spent all day at the track.
The brakes work fine at 95
Update: Put in the 3rd master cylinder in 3 days and it helped the brakes a lot. Went with a new one this time. The brakes are seated in fine now, I spent all day at the track.
The brakes work fine at 95
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Kruel13
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
24
09-16-15 09:08 AM
Frisky Arab
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
13
08-18-15 05:30 PM
