new brakes pulling hard
The front brakes pull to the right under hard braking. They are new rebuilt calipers, master, etc. The first rebuilt master cylinder leaked, it was replaced. This one is slowly oozing, don't think that's the problem. Used the old proportioning valve, could this be the problem?
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were both cylinders and pads replaced, or just the right side?
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It sounds like a proportioning valve to me, but then again, what do I know. Also, along with Manntis, if just the right side has been replaced, it would work more efficently than the left, causing the car to pull to that direction because its stopping faster on that side...I guess thats a good way to put it.
~T.J. |
I replaced both sides with rebuilt calipers and installed new brake lines all around. I picked up 2 proportioning valves today at the u-pull. (GSL-SE, GSL) I might swap in one of those. I was hoping that maybe this was sort of common when breaking in new brake pads.
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Be sure to check the suspension, too. If any bushings are shot then the suspension can move around. My '85 has this problem, the strut rod bushings are shot on the right side and it allows the right front wheel to move fore and aft a lot. This changes caster and causes the car to pull right when braking.
Also, if the idler arm bushings are junk, it will cause the right front wheel to toe-out on braking. This is the same as steering to the right... it's not a true pull (once you compensate by turning the wheel left, it goes straight) but it feels like one if you hold the steering wheel still. rotormotordriver, on all the cars i've done where i replaced only one side's pads (just personal cars NEVER for a customer) the car pulls AWAY from the new brakes. this is because new brakes don't work as well as used ones until they break in. |
rotormotordriver, on all the cars i've done where i replaced only one side's pads (just personal cars NEVER for a customer) the car pulls AWAY from the new brakes. this is because new brakes don't work as well as used ones until they break in. ~T.J. |
Yup, takes time and a few hard stops to break 'em in, similar to what peejay described in another recent thread.
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the proportioning valve is a front to rear thing, not side to side. make sure your pads are seated properly.
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Re-bleed and break-in. You are going to needs a few from fast to hard stops to break them in. Make sure you do it in a safe location.
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boobies.............................
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Sounds like they need re-bleeding or checking to make sure that the rebuilt callipers are working properly
out of interest do RX7's GSL-SE type set up (MK3) have a diagonal split on the brake circuits like more modern cars or is it a front rear split ? |
My '85 GSL (same car just smaller engine) has the same setup as earlier cars.... it's front-rear split, however the front brakes have two rake lines coming from the master cylinder, one goes directly to the left front caliper and the other one goes through the proportioning valve because it goes to the right front caliper. Only one line for the rear brakes, from the master all the way back to the axle.
As far as I know, up to the mid-90's (which is when I stopped paying attention to it), only front-drive cars have split diagonal. Apparently front-drive cars get very touchy if you drive them with only front brakes, or only rear brakes, as when half of a front/rear split system fails. |
Originally posted by jeremy boobies............................. |
Update: Put in the 3rd master cylinder in 3 days and it helped the brakes a lot. Went with a new one this time. The brakes are seated in fine now, I spent all day at the track.
The brakes work fine at 95 |
Originally posted by jeremy boobies............................. I think maybe you might need to rebleed them. Did you say the master cyl is leaking? |
Originally posted by rotor-lynn Update: Put in the 3rd master cylinder in 3 days and it helped the brakes a lot. Went with a new one this time. The brakes are seated in fine now, I spent all day at the track. The brakes work fine at 95 |
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