In the process of revamping the cooling system, I drained the fluid, removed the rad hoses and t-stat, and was checking if a hex-head bolt was going to fit the holes on the water pump. I should have covered up the opening. The bolt slipped and disappeared into the throat. After a brief panic, I ordered two bendable magnetic pickup tools. The bolt that went down is longer (to fit the Atkins housing cover that has raised sides.) I felt it should be standing straight in the cavity beneath where the t-stat sits. But the tool didn't pick it up. Upon closes examination, I see that there is a cavity by the throat towards the engine side. I don't think the bolt jumped up and went into that cave. I hope it didn't...

Ordering a snake camera next. Is there any way I can get it out without removing the pump? I searched the forum for "idiot drops bolt into water pump" and am confident that I am the first one. :~[ Help!

 

You drained the fluid already, might as well just pull the pump. All it costs you is a WP gasket.

 

Wasn't planning for such a thorough cleaning but you're right. 😳 I am reading about water pump removal and shopping for parts. Might as well put a new pump in, if available.

 

Tim's right, the easy way out is remove the water pump.

Easy job, 10 mm socket and a 10 mm box end is all you need, keeping the fan mount from turning is the only tricky part.

And the new water pump is the bonus. I like this GMB unit, inexpensive, looks great and comes with the gasket.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=2208&jsn=366

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ater+pump,2208

 

When you replace ir remove the water pump, you'll want to replace the water pump housing gasket as well. It will separate once you remove the water pump and the gasket usually tears. No sealer is needed for either if using the Mazda gaskets.

 

And don't forget the two thin spacer washers that go over the long stubs that do not have the gasket.

 

If it fell down the bypass hole, it might be in the lower radiator hose.

 

Thank you! Will I need a 3rd arm to hold the fan mount in place?

Will the OEM t-stat need replacement after 3 years? It looks intact. Adding items to my order now.

 

Thank you! Those came up as product relevant to the pump. Do I need those long headless studs for the front over?

 

I have no clue how the water pump internals look or the path that the bolt might have gone down. By the way, I tried the remaining bolt (that I got from OSH) and it didn't fit, wrong pitch. Ordered a proper set from Atkins.

When finishing with the lower rad hose yesterday, I didn't hear anything unusual. Let me check again.

 

Thanks! Water pump, gasket for the housing, gasket for the block, and two shims. What sealer is needed if I order non-oem?

I do have a generic t-stat gasket and t-stat from 3 years ago. Was told to use OEM.

 

On my pump body/impeller swaps I seated the OE gaskets with a thin (finger-applied) bead of plain ol' axle grease an both sides.
Leakless seal (now 5yrs +), easy future removal of old gaskets next time 'round...
This is an old mechanic's trick-
Mind the torque settings for bolt tightening, as well as the bolt tightening order (think: lug nut tightening pattern).
Also, when re-mounting T-stat cover housing, careful to not over-tighten. The bases warp with repeated install (being aluminum IIRC), causing an unsealable leak. Solution on used T-stat housing is to 'plain' (sand/grind, it does not require a lot to level the surface) down the mating surface to remove the warpage. learned the hard way when I kept cranking-away at the mount bolts to try to stop the leak, to no avail...

Stu A
80GS
AZ

 

May I also recommend an oem Mazda thermostat. I've use aftermarket thermostats in the past and had issues with the coolant temperature. Other here have had the same issue. I completely recommend the Mazda thermostat and gasket. It has a jiggle pin and the pin should be at the 12 o'clock position in the thermostat housing when installed. Be sure to remove all old gasket material from the housing and the water pump housing. A wire wheel on a drill works great when the housing is removed from the engine.

 

Thank you, Stu! I am printing these out to tuck into my Haynes Manual. There are 36 steps for the water pump removal/installation. Silicone sealer was mentioned. I don't think I have axle grease on my shelf. Gas price is crazy here so I might as well take my time...

 

Yes indeed! The set installed 3 years ago when I first got her was OEM, though I ordered generic initially. Also installed generic flexible rad hoses back then, this time I got the molded ones. I have a basic drill but will need to get a wire wheel...

The endoscope went int quite a bit but didn't catch any glimpse of the bolt in either the main hole or the bypass. I also rocked the car gently and didn't hear anything jingling anywhere. Am preparing for the surgery, just nervous about possible complications, like bolts breaking off and etc.

 

The only bolt to worry about is the lower air pump bolt. I've had to heat the ear on the air pump to avoid breaking that bolt. Once its out, I chase the threads on the air pump, wire wheel the bolt, and run a die down the threads. Upon install, all threads are cleaned and greased. Saves me so much headache. Extra time sure, but if it comes apart in the future, I'll never have an issue again. Just went though that on my 85. Built the car 12 years ago and just had to replace the water pump. It still came apart nicely after all these years.

 

Quick update: I removed the lower rad hose to reattach it in the reversed position and found the bolt laying comfortably at the lower rad port. It must have been a fun slide down. Peejay was right. Still moving forward with the water pump job. :-)

 

She is put back together for now until I figure out how to remove the fan assembly. Damn thing keeps spinning. I don't want her to be down for more than a day or two.

I added the Preston kit as recommended by Stu in a different thread. It is pointing downward so that when it is time to drain, I can more easily channel the flow through a gap in the belly pan (the light grey area is the driveway). Then I can turn the T towards me to connect a hose and flush. Currently she holds about 6 quarts of water and additive mix. Heater works, temp is good, rad cap works, no leak from the T-stat cover or the new hoses.