Looks like I may be need a new oil cooler…
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Looks like I may be need a new oil cooler…
Thanks to everyone on this forum, my dad’s 80 rx7 is running really well. Got the idler arm fixed and am now moving on to fixing the oil leaks.
during my searching, I found this little gem on the lower tube of the oil cooler… I’m guessing the connection to the cooler is cracked and my dad attempted to fix it with some hose and a clamp? I’ve looked at other photos of oil coolers and I don’t see any with that hose there.
im assuming, to fix this, I need to pull the radiator and then the cooler? Which means draining the radiator and oil…
I found this one for $300. https://www.cxracing.com/OC-13B-RX7FB-KIT
I don’t have a turbo, but I do have a 13b. So I assume that’s the correct one?
I see they also have a kit with. New radiator and all of the connections for $200 more.
https://www.rotary-works.com/RW-OC-RAD-13B-RX7FB-KIT
is going this route worth it? Has anyone put one of these on a non-turbo 13b?
and if I’m draining the oil again, may as well drop the oil pan…
I hear that is not that hard to replace?
thanks again!
during my searching, I found this little gem on the lower tube of the oil cooler… I’m guessing the connection to the cooler is cracked and my dad attempted to fix it with some hose and a clamp? I’ve looked at other photos of oil coolers and I don’t see any with that hose there.
im assuming, to fix this, I need to pull the radiator and then the cooler? Which means draining the radiator and oil…
I found this one for $300. https://www.cxracing.com/OC-13B-RX7FB-KIT
I don’t have a turbo, but I do have a 13b. So I assume that’s the correct one?
I see they also have a kit with. New radiator and all of the connections for $200 more.
https://www.rotary-works.com/RW-OC-RAD-13B-RX7FB-KIT
is going this route worth it? Has anyone put one of these on a non-turbo 13b?
and if I’m draining the oil again, may as well drop the oil pan…
I hear that is not that hard to replace?
thanks again!
#2
Rotary Enthusiast
There are lots of threads on here about fixing the cracked bung, here are just a couple.
No welding:
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-gene.../#post12174306
Welding:
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-gene...mation-888597/
Here's a good general info thread for one guy's experience
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...-leak-1147180/
No welding:
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-gene.../#post12174306
Welding:
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-gene...mation-888597/
Here's a good general info thread for one guy's experience
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...-leak-1147180/
#3
Out In the Barn
iTrader: (9)
Those are both nice, but both oil coolers, and foer that all after market oil coolers, don't have an internal oil thermostat like the factory one. Why is that important? On a street car, the oil won't come up to temp fast enough if at all for a short drive. You need an external oil temp t-stat. Earl's make a nice one. With that said, the lines in those kits won't work because you have to place the t-stat inline.
I have a rotary-works oil cooler and an Earls oil external t-stat. I made my own lines. If you make your own, I'd suggest nylon braded over stainless.
The other option is to see if your current cooler can be TIG welded. You can remove the oil cooler by removing the under tray and then unbolting the oil cooler from the rad.
If the rad it original, I suggested just replacing it. Price wise it's the same as getting one fixed and tyou have a better produce.
I have a rotary-works oil cooler and an Earls oil external t-stat. I made my own lines. If you make your own, I'd suggest nylon braded over stainless.
The other option is to see if your current cooler can be TIG welded. You can remove the oil cooler by removing the under tray and then unbolting the oil cooler from the rad.
If the rad it original, I suggested just replacing it. Price wise it's the same as getting one fixed and tyou have a better produce.
The following users liked this post:
Toruki (11-01-23)
#5
Rotary Enthusiast
I remember that one but couldn't find the thread searching the forum here. That's by far the most comprehensive and best method, I think.
The following users liked this post:
Frogman (11-03-23)
#6
Out In the Barn
iTrader: (9)
If it were mine, I'd have -10AN bungs welded on and make up new lines. Don't trust those old lines. They can look good on the outside but turn to mush over time on the inside. If going with -10AN, you'll need to convert the front cover and rear iron with screw in fittings. It's really easy. If you want to get fancy for the rear iron, get an -10AN with a 18mmx1.5 banjo 90* fitting. Front cover is 16mm x 1.5.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post