Okay, I 've heard vague things about it being bad, and I've heard specific things about it being good.

I wanna hear what everyone has to say on this. Jacobs RotaryMaster/Rotary Pro Pack, yes or no? And Why?

 

To me, its just another gimic like the MSD was. The trick is to get both Leading plugs to fire at the same time with more power than a standard 2nd or 3rd gen coil pack. Only then will you have something worth adding to your engine.

The Jacobs Rotarymaster looks to me like a common CD ignition box. If it wasn't, why would it need such a large box? Even Felix Wankel said he knew a guy who tried it and didn't like it too much. Do I need anymore convincing? (actualy yes because I don't like to dislike something without just cause)

The problem with a 2nd or 3rd gen Leading (DIS) coil is that it makes both Leading plugs share the primary and secondary windings which has the effect of reducing amps to each plug. The bean counters saw that it was good enough to meet the newer stricter emissions standards so they used it. But I want a really hot spark! I don't think a 3rd gen coil can be used on anything other than a 3rd gen's ECU and crankfire ignition system. A 2nd gen coil's ignitor won't spark the coil without a good ECU being triggered by a CAS (meaning it can't be fired from an '81-'85 dizzy pickup). If you remove the ignitor off a 2nd gen coil and hook it to an '81-'85 ignitor (J105), it will burn it out quickly because the resistance is too low.

Remember that the 1st gen single Leading coil was meant to be sparked through a dizzy cap and rotor, then through the plugs - one at a time. All I did with DLIDFIS was to have dual Leading ignitors firing dual Leading coils at the same time, using easily findable/purchasable parts to keep the costs low, and it pumps each plug without going throug a cap or rotor, and it fires each Leading plug twice as often (it may wear it out quicker so I'm keeping an eye on my BR8EQ-14). It also takes less space under my hood.

Needless to say, I'm 100% convinced that the Rotarymaster is not necessary. Can it really be better than what I'm currently using? I ask because I'm open to new ideas. Anyone else?

 

I'm willing to try the non-MSD DFIS in a race-only setup as soon as I clear something up...

Is is necessary to use two ignitors with MSD Blaster coils (which I have already) or is the resistance OK to fire both from just one stock Mazda part? (using '80 external ignitor setup)

What about the use of GM HEI parts instead of the expen$$$ive Mazda ignitors?


And don't knock the MSD... it is a freakin' godsend - car starts on first crank even when stone cold, get stupid-good MPG, low-RPM driveability (meaning 1k-3k) is incredible. If I knew then about the non-MSD DFIS setups I would have done that instead, but I've grown quite fond of the low-RPM and starting improvements with the MSD. Plus WHEN i miss a shift I don't have to worry about overrev.

 

C'mon! Only 2 replies? Hasn't anyone besides Jose usesd this thing?

 

All i've heard is that its not worth the extra $200 over a MSD or Crane $100 ignition box.

 

Yeah, overev is something to worry about.

All I know pricewise is that nothing can compare with around $0-$50 for a good used ignitor and $0-$10 for a good used Daimond coil when performance is the same or even possibly better (it was better in my case).

I only spent $1 for little conectors because I already had the necessary parts laying around. Tee hee.

 

Perhaps, through the magic of the forum, we can get people that have some electronics knowledge together to create a rev limiter circuit that will cut spark and integrate that with the DLIDFS of yours. There are a couple people that have at least hinted in tehir electronics knowledge. (Aaron Cake and Max7 are two that come to mind quickly.)

 

Jimbo has also hinted at his electronic knowledge.

I noticed that my wires going to my key switch get warm after I've driven for a little while. This is REPU wiring that was only meant to run points, not 3 ignitors and coils . I have been wondering how hard it would be to hook up a relay to feed the coils. The problem with a relay is that it is a mechanical device and could fail in use. I need some sort of a solid state relay. http://www.hellroaring.com/industr.htm

The rev limiter circuit would need to count RPM just like a tach, then cut both Leading ignitors at the same time (just like the MSD cutting its coils' output hooked in parallel to dual Leading coils). Maybe it would be better if it cut each rotor seperately like how the MSD is supposed to cut every other cylinder on a boinger. At least with DLIDFIS, this could be accomplished easily because each coil has its own ignitor. It shouldn't be all that hard to build. Anybody have any suggestions?

 

Cutting rotors alternately would also reduce the buildup of unburned gas as backfires might tear up your exhaust after a while. Besides, the law frowns upon loud bangs.

 

I know on the Microtech the rev cut is actually a fuel cut. Its a hard cut (no fuel) so backfires are unavoidable. It has to be hard cut because they are staged injectors: letting some injectors open would just lean out the engine killing it.

NOW...applying the same thing to an ignition fuel cut, cutting all sparks would cause backfires, but i reckon just cutting alternating rotors would be a great idea. Those of us who have driven on one rotor know that it'll still run - it just won't rev very easily. It'll still backfire, just not very violently.

 

I have one in my car, new Blaster 2 coils, new wires, new cap and rotor.......

Still doesn't start right away on cold mornings or if the car is warm and sitting for more than 5 mins.

My car floods a little, but I don't really know why though, anyone have any clues?

 

Not really, but I've installed a relay and my REPU's wires no longer get hot. It fires right up when cold too. It sometimes take a few seconds when hot though. I have no hot start assist, so that could be why.